First presented in 2021, Patek Philippe introduced a new perpetual calendar with an innovative patented one-line display that displays the day, the date, and the month on a single line in an elongated aperture beneath 12 o'clock. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe presents the 5236P with a salmon-colored dial. The first iteration of the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P featured a gorgeous blue dial; however, here at WCL we have a soft spot for salmon dials.
This newish in-line perpetual calendar cased in platinum offers a dial configuration based off of a 1972 Patek Philippe pocket watch perpetual calendar No. P-1450 which is on display at the Patek Museum. Referred to as ‘à l’américaine’ —the American way of displaying the month, date, and day.
The new ref. 5236P-010 features what Patek calls a vintage-inspired opaline rose-gilt dial enhanced by charcoal gray white gold hands and applied hour-markers. To us is just salmon dial. This watch presents an innovative indication of the day, date, and month in an elongated aperture at 12 o'clock. The salmon dial creates a harmonious contrast against the silvery shimmer of platinum. A chocolate brown alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp rounds out the inimitable personality of the Ref. 5236P-010.
The Movement
A panoramic aperture of this kind is a feat of horology. Over time, Patek Philippe had already crafted pocket watches with an in-line calendar display for the American market. To ensure the largest possible calendar display on a single line with optimized legibility, the developers were asked to design a system with two date disks —one for the tens and one for the units.
So the calendar display consists of four disks, one for the day, two for the date, and one for the month —all four perfectly embedded in the same plane. A single date disk with 31 numerals would have been too small and less easily legible. This new, complex mechanical ensemble had to be implemented with the smallest possible diameter and minimized height without compromising its maximum long-term dependability.
For this reason, the project team proceeded based on the calibre 31-260 REG QA that was originally launched in 2011 with the reference 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator. Not least because of its eccentric recessed micro-rotor, this automatic movement with subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock is extremely slender and the use of a platinum micro-rotor helps with the thickness tremendously.
Visible via the display case back is the automatic calibre 31-260 PS QL composed of 503 parts which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
On the Wrist & Price
With a very sleek case with a diameter of 41.3 mm, a thickness of 11.07 mm, and a chamfered bezel, this unassuming architecture is emphasized with polished finissage that is executed by hand according to venerable Patek Philippe traditions. Slightly angled strap lugs extend the line of the chamfered bezel and ensure optimized comfort on the wrist. As in most of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the case flank features a small diamond at 6 o'clock.
Sticker Price USD 141,400. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.
