An artistic reinterpretation of some of the finest watchmaking skills. An exceptional calibre brings together three of the greatest complications. Testament to the exceptional watchmaking talents and decorative crafts united within the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture is the new artistic interpretation of Calibre 184. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is based on calibre created in 2019.
This exceptional movement unites the smallest version of the bi-axial Gyrotourbillon with a highly intuitive perpetual calendar, a minute repeater that sounds the Westminster chime, a one-minute constant force mechanism, a dead-beat minute hand, and a leaping date display.
The Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is presented in 18K pink gold ref. Q5252470 and another variant in 18K white gold ref. Q5253470. Both metals are available in a highly exclusive limited edition of five pieces each.
Jaeger-LeCoultre created its Hybris collection to bring together some of the highest watchmaking skills in a single piece. The timepieces that are designated Hybris Artistica complement the exceptional mechanics with sophisticated and complex artistic decoration.
Calibre 184 unites three of the greatest complications in the history of watchmaking – each of which represents a pillar of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking mastery: sound, precision and astronomical complications. In addition, the Hybris Artistica interpretation showcases the Grand Feu enamelling skills of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares atelier as well as the craft of lacquering.
Underlining the extraordinary sophistication of Calibre 184, it takes approximately five months to assemble its 1,052 components. Very few watchmakers have mastered such a high level of skill and a single watchmaker works on the entire process from start to finish.
Complex and visually intriguing, the dial of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is an essay in harmony and contrast. Soft curves contrast with the rectilinear geometry of the decoration; textured surfaces contrast with high shine; visual complexity is anchored by a restrained bi-colour palette. The dials feature decorative plates of black Grand Feu enamel with a geometric pattern of fine lines, set on both sides of the sub-dial that displays the time and perpetual calendar. The centre of this sub-dial is a smoky black, semi-transparent sapphire that allows an intriguing glimpse of the calendar discs. The open-worked lower half of the dial is dominated by the visually mesmerising Gyrotourbillon, on each side of which the repeater hammers are set like wings. Set beneath them, the distinctively curved gongs are treated with black, to harmonise perfectly with the overall colour palette.
The case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.1 mm thick and the attention to detail extends to the manner of operating the minute repeater. Rather than the traditional slider or a simple push-button, the designers developed a retractable pusher that is mounted flush with the case to preserve its elegant lines. In keeping with the complexity of this timepiece, the Grande Tradition case comprises more than 80 components, with polished, brushed and micro-blasted finishes highlighting its sculptural form. For the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have used the case sides as a canvas to link to the new dial decoration, adding a plate on each side of the case featuring the same geometric pattern as the dial, executed in black lacquer.
Calibre 184 features the fifth iteration of the Gyrotourbillon, which returns to the original form of the 2004 Gyrotourbillon design. However, the mechanism has been completely re-engineered and its size significantly reduced. The reduced size made it possible to incorporate a minute repeater without adding much thickness to the calibre. Remarkably, the 94 components making up the Gyrotourbillon weigh just 0.4 grams. This movement provides a power reserve of
In watchmaking, precision depends on the delivery of a consistent power supply to the regulating organ and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have incorporated a one-minute constant force mechanism to ensure a consistent flow of energy to the Gyrotourbillon. Because it causes the minute hand to beat every 60 seconds —in a similar way to a dead-beat seconds hand— the constant force mechanism also has a significant benefit for the minute repeater. Normally, if the minute repeater is activated at any point between minutes, it will chime the time a minute fast or slow. Thanks to the beating minute hand, it will always chime the precise minute shown by the hand.
The minute repeater of Calibre 184 plays the Westminster carillon —the melody made famous by the clocktower housing Big Ben at London's Westminster Palace. This chime is rarely found in watchmaking due to the complexity of the mechanism needed to achieve it. Four hammers are required, rather than the usual two, and in Calibre 184, they are stacked in pairs so that they strike the gongs from the same angle.
In mastering chiming mechanisms, Jaeger-LeCoultre has focused on ways to improve the sound, and Calibre 184 features several patented inventions: the trébuchet hammers, which strike the gong more solidly, and the crystal gongs, so named because they are connected directly to the front crystal, enabling a cleaner transfer of the sound and increased volume. The mechanism also incorporates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature time-lapse reduction mechanism, which ensures a smooth cadence no matter what time it is chiming. Moreover, the minute repeater calibre features two distinctive characteristics: The gongs are curved outwards to meet the hammer at its natural strike point, and they have a square variable profile, providing a larger strike area that enables a cleaner strike.
The perpetual calendar is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications, as it takes into account the differences between the cycles of the heavenly bodies and the units of standard civil timekeeping. Consequently, the calendar needs manual adjustment only in centennial years that are not also leap years. The first time that this will be required is in the year 2100. The operation of the perpetual calendar of Calibre 184 is both innovative and highly intuitive, allowing the date to be re-set either backwards or forwards.
The layout of the calendar indications is equally intuitive. Set into the hours and minutes dial, three small windows display the year, month, and day, while the date is shown on a ring surrounding the sub-dial. The spaces between dates are perfectly uniform, except for 16 and 17, which are separated by 60 degrees. Every month, the date indicator hand leaps from one to the other, ensuring that the Gyrotourbillon isn’t obscured.
Viewed through the sapphire case back, the reverse side of the movement is no less compelling. The plates have been open-worked to allow a view deep into the calibre, including a full view of the Gyrotourbillon, as well as the governor for the minute repeater, which uses friction and centripetal force to regulate the speed at which the time is chimed and reduces the silent intervals between chimes.
In keeping with the elevated level of the mechanics and the exceptional artistic craftsmanship of this timepiece, the movement features superlative hand-finishing. The bridges are hand-beveled; sunrayed Côtes de Genève radiate out from the perpetual calendar’s anchor point; and heat-blued screws are set into hand-bevelled and polished sinks. Several bridges are micro-blasted, to create a pleasing textural contrast with the movement’s polished elements.
Uniting three great watchmaking complications with an exceptional degree of craftsmanship and artistry, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is eloquent testimony to the 180 skills housed within the Manufacture and reconfirms the place that Jaeger-LeCoultre holds in the world of haute horlogerie as the ‘Watchmaker of Watchmakers.
Sticker Price USD 995,000. More info on Jaeger-LeCoultre here.
