The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World Time elegantly combines sophisticated horological craftsmanship with a global timekeeping function. Featuring a stunning champlevé enamel dial, the watch displays 24 time zones marked by a rotating outer ring, allowing wearers to effortlessly track the time across major cities worldwide. The name of each city is set on a green opaline ring around the central dial, whereas outside the city ring the fixed concentric ring indicates 24 hours. Mimicking the rotation of the Earth, the Universal Tourbillon embarks the world map and city ring into a complete 360-degree revolution in 24 hours, to indicate the time in each city.
Things to Know About the Watch
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition World Time is available in a highly exclusive limited edition of 20 pieces and is cased in an 18K pink gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter by 14.13 mm in thickness and is equipped with a world time complication and an orbital —24-hour revolution around the dial— flying tourbillon.
Despite its complexity, the Calibre 948 powering this watch has been designed to be very simple to operate. The time is set with the crown, which synchronizes all of the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one hour jumps forwards or backward. The case is highly polished throughout except for the areas near the lugs on both caseband sides which are micro-blasted.
The dial is a remarkable work of art in miniature created by the master artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares atelier. Uniting the skills of champlevé enameling, guillochage, and lacquering, it requires long hours of meticulous work to complete one example. The dial portrays a domed map as seen from the North Pole, showing the beautifully decorated continents, miniature painted with the champlevé enamel technique. The enameling alone requires more than 20 hours of work.
The pink gold structure is then skeletonized displaying the longitudes and latitudes of the world map and giving a glimpse into the ocean disc. Beneath the dome, the disc representing the oceans is guilloché in a wavy pattern suggesting the movement of the sea, and decorated with 15 layers of blue-green translucent lacquer. Truly not only a work of art but one of the most intricate and detailed champlevé dials we’ve seen in modern horology.
Champlevé is a centuries-old enameling technique that has been used to create intricate watch dials. Originating from the French term meaning "raised field," champlevé involves carving out designs into the surface of a metal substrate, often copper, brass, or gold. The carved areas are then filled with colored enamel, which is fired at high temperatures to fuse the enamel with the metal, creating a durable and vibrant finish.
The process begins with an artisan etching or engraving a design into the dial. This may include floral patterns, geometric shapes, or even more complex scenes, such as in this case where a map has been created. Once the engraving is complete, the areas that will hold the enamel are carefully cleaned and prepared. Applying the enamel is a delicate task, as it requires a steady hand to ensure that each section is filled without overflow. The dial is then fired in a kiln, allowing the enamel to melt and set, after which it is polished to create a smooth surface.
Champlevé dials are often celebrated for their unique and artisanal qualities, making them highly sought after by collectors. Each piece is essentially a work of art, with slight variations that add to its individuality. These dials are not only visually striking but also reflect the craftsmanship and tradition of watchmaking.
While champlevé has been used historically in various decorative arts, its application in horology showcases how this ancient technique continues to be relevant. Modern watchmakers frequently combine champlevé with other methods, such as guilloché —like in the case of this watch as you can see underneath the disc—, to enhance the depth of the design further and create a fascinating interplay of textures.
Collectors appreciate champlevé dials for their rarity and the skill required to produce them. The craftsmanship involved adds a layer of value that resonates with the ideals of horological artistry. Whether used in high-end pieces or more accessible watches, champlevé dials stand out as a testament to the enduring charm of traditional craftsmanship in the world of timepieces.
The Movement
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948 is a hallmark of exquisite watchmaking, embodying the brand's commitment to precision and innovation. Calibre 948, was the first world-time complication united with a flying tourbillon. The Universal Tourbillon —patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre—makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours, corresponding to the length of a mean solar day, an eloquent expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise.
This 388-part automatic movement with 42 jewels features a remarkable 48-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph, ensuring exceptional accuracy. The calibre showcases a beautiful balance between complexity and elegance, with intricate finishing and careful attention to detail, which are signatures of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The movement is equipped with a skeletonized pink gold rotor with the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo. Additionally, the main plate of the movement has been decorated with a world map as seen from the North Pole.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the Master Grande Tradition World Time wears exceptionally well and true to its size. The wrist presence of a watch of this caliber is simply out of this world. Yet another incredible timepiece from the watchmaker of watchmakers that makes watch dreams worth dreaming. The watch is delivered on a dark green —almost black— alligator strap.
Wearing a Master Grande Tradition World Time is an experience that embodies both elegance and profound craftsmanship. The watch sits comfortably on the wrist, its well-balanced weight a constant reminder of its sophisticated engineering. The intricacy of the champlevé dial invites admiration while effortlessly providing the wearer with a sense of global connectivity. Each glance at the timepiece reveals not just the time in various parts of the world, but also a celebration of horological heritage, combining artistic design with technical precision. This watch transcends mere functionality; it serves as a stylish companion that elevates any outfit, while its refined aesthetic reflects a certain discernment in taste and appreciation for fine watchmaking.
I think after reviewing this watch is about time that Jaeger-LeCoultre becomes part of the ‘Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’ and replaces Audemars Piguet who doesn’t belong there because of the watches they have been releasing in the past three years.
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