Since its release in 2016 to celebrate the 225th anniversary of the manufacture, the new Laureato has been on my radar as a watch that could easily compete against an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15500ST with a blue dial or a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-010 blue dial. Considering today’s watch market, as it is nearly impossible to find an AP Royal Oak or a Patek Nautilus, let alone pay retail price for them, the best option when you can’t have either is the Girard-Perregaux Laureato ref. 81010 and here are some of the reasons why.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato was originally launched in 1975 as a competitor to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with a very similar type of case design with a flat top around the bezel, and also sporting an octagonal-shaped bezel. The case looked in between an AP Royal Oak and an IWC Ingenieur SL. Originally suggested by Girard-Perregaux’s Italian distributor, the name was inspired by the name in Italian of the film ‘The Graduate’ from 1967 —Il Laureato— starring Dustin Hoffman, Anne Bancroft, and Katharine Ross.
While the modern Laureato in stainless steel was first released as a 225-piece limited edition watch with either a blue or white ‘Clous de Paris’ dial in a 41 mm stainless steel case and powered by the in-house automatic calibre GP03300-0030, it wasn’t until the following year that the Girard-Perregaux Laureato ref. 81010 was released in three different sizes —34 mm, 38 mm, and 42 mm— and that’s when I really couldn’t wait to get one. Even though I didn’t pull the trigger immediately after, I lusted over a Laureato ref. 81010 for several years until I decided to purchase one a couple of months ago.
There are some minor nuances that differentiate the limited edition Laureato from the regular production one and because of those, I personally like the latter much more. For instance, the bezel on the limited edition Laureato is highly polished throughout while on the Laureato ref. 81010 is satin-brushed finished on its top making the watch less shiny. Then, the 42 mm case on the regular production watch wears better and appears perfectly proportioned when compared to the 41 mm limited edition Laureato.
Then comes the date disk, which in the case of the limited edition Laureato ref. 81000 it is white and on the regular production Laureato ref. 81010 it is black, making the date blend in with the gorgeous blue ‘Clous de Paris’ dial backdrop perfectly.
Fitted with a stainless steel satin-brushed finished case —42 mm x 10.3 mm—, the curved end by the lugs is something I’ve always been fascinated with —and that no other sports watch features— and that helps the watch look slimmer. Not to mention that it also features some decadent chamfers that follow the shape of the case all around to accentuate its iconic octagonal bezel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Fitted with a screw-down crown, the watch is water-resistant to 100 meters sitting right in between the Nautilus at 120 meters and the Royal Oak ref. 15500 at 50 meters.
The integrated bracelet is sturdy and aesthetically pleasing with a design that didn’t sacrifice comfort or flexibility. Mixing satin-brushed finished links with highly polished center links create a beautiful interplay of shiny and matte surfaces. Even though my favorite bracelet in the watch industry is the one on the AP Royal Oak, this bracelet feels as good as the Royal Oak bracelet and much better than that on a Patek Nautilus. The bracelet features a double folding deployant clasp signed with the GP logo making it a great everyday wear type of watch and also for any activity.
While the Girard-Perregaux Laureato ref. 81010 comes with three different 'Clous de Paris' dials —silvery-white, blue, and slate grey— with baton-shaped hands, applied GP logo and applied hour markers, you either go with the blue dial or the slate grey one. Now, since I’m personally a sucker for blue dials, that’s the one I decided to go with. I also feel that the watch appears way more retro with a blue dial, and when compared to the ‘tapisserie’ on a Royal Oak, this dial is just as good.
Powering the original GP Laureato was a Quartz movement. However, today, the new generation of the GP Laureato with the exception of the 34 mm model —powered by a quartz movement— is powered by in-house automatic calibres that happen to be workhorses. Turning the Laureato ref. 81010 around reveals the automatic Girard-Perregaux in-house calibre GP01800-0008 composed of 191 parts and 28 jewels. This thin movement —3.97 mm in thickness— provides a power reserve of 54 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The movement is exquisitely finished and up to par with the finishing on movements like the Audemars Piguet calibre 4302 or the Patek Philippe calibre 26‑330 S C.
I’ve owned hundreds of watches —and still own dozens of timepieces in my current collection— in my 30 years as a watch collector and even though all of you know how much I love the AP Royal Oak, for the very first time I’ve been able to find a watch that looks and feels as good as one. Do I switch from wearing one of my Royal Oaks to put on my Girard-Perregaux Laureato? Absolutely and quite frequently.
Now as far as pricing goes, this was a no brainer to me. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato ref. 81010 packs a lot of watch for under $12,000 —sticker price $11,600 USD— and is readily available without a waiting list or having to pay any premium in the secondary market. Meanwhile, the Royal Oak ref. 15500ST retails for $21,800 USD with prices in the secondary market up to $50K USD and the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A retails for $33,710 USD with secondary market selling as high as $110K.
Forty-five years later, I think that the GP Laureato has made a solid comeback with all the aesthetics and design that made it a 70s icon alongside the Royal Oak, the IWC Ingenieur SL, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Vacheron Constantin 222, and the Rolex Oysterquartz.
If you are looking for a perfect daily wearer in stainless steel with a blue dial, octagonal rounded shapes, amazing pedigree, flat-top case construction, and an integrated bracelet, the Laureato has really no contender, especially at its price point. Point blank, when you can’t have a Nautilus or a Royal Oak, this is the best way to go.
Sticker Price $11,600 USD. For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.
