Last week Audemars Piguet dropped the new watches to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ and the new reference 16202 replaces the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin reference 15202. Among the new watches, an exclusive platinum Royal Oak that is exclusively sold at the AP Houses was presented —a similar watch reference 15202PT was released at the end of March of 2021— and we finally got to review it and photograph it last week.
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' 50th Anniversary in platinum reference 16202PT.OO.1240PT.01 with a green dial is all that one can wish for and more. Historically, platinum is a very scarce material at Audemars Piguet and more so when it comes to the Royal Oak. This metal first appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the 1980s and then a limited edition Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ celebrated the first 20 years of the Royal Oak in 1992. While other platinum limited editions followed, such as the 39 mm Royal Oak Jubilee —reference 14802— this last iteration is one of our all-time favorite ones.
Things to Know About the Watch
The new reference 16202 maintains the exact same case proportions as its predecessor reference 15202 at 39 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm in thickness. Fitted with a sapphire crystal display case back just like the previous Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 15202, makes the 16202 thicker than the original Royal Oak Jumbo 5402 from 1972 which featured a unique monoblock case design, making it even thinner and sleeker.
Even though we love all the releases celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak and the development of a new and better calibre replacing the legendary calibre 2121 was long overdue, we feel that there was much more that could’ve been done to honor the most iconic sports luxury watch in the world. Perhaps the use of the same dial font as the original Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ ref. 5402, the use of an identical monoblock case construction or at the very least the return of tantalum in the collection. Regardless, the new Royal Oak 'Jumbo' 50th Anniversary ref. 16202 is still a great way of celebrating an icon.
Awarded the ‘Iconic Timepiece Prize’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in November 2021
This elegant timepiece contrasts its hand-finished 950 platinum case and bracelet with sans-tapisserie —without tapisserie— smoked green dial, whose base is decorated with a sunburst pattern. This striking combination introduced in March of 2021 was awarded the ‘Iconic Timepiece Prize’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in November 2021 —and we were there to cast our vote as part of the jury.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' 50th Anniversary ref. 16202PT Platinum next to Royal Oak 15400ST
The vivid green shade is obtained by adding drops of green coloring to the dial’s protective varnish. The smoked effect on the dial’s periphery accentuates the color’s intensity while giving it more depth. A true chameleon depending on lighting conditions, the dial on the Royal Oak 'Jumbo' 50th Anniversary ref. 16202PT Platinum is captivating and breathtaking at once. With shades of green that vary from a deep forest green to an electric green, the dial has to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. Just like the grain on the satin-brushed finish bracelet and case that is remarkably brushed and out of this world.
Similar to the Royal Oak from 1972, this new ‘Jumbo’ features the original baignoire —bathtub— shaped hour-markers and hands, the polished white gold gold applied AP monogram at 6 o’clock, and the printed “AUDEMARS PIGUET AUTOMATIC” mention at 12 o’clock.
The Movement
Something we really love about the new Audemars Piguet 50th anniversary Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ is that the brand went above and beyond to develop a brand new calibre that would supersede the legendary calibre 2121. The development of this new movement took five years. While the new automatic calibre 7121 is 3.2 mm thick —slightly thicker than the calibre 2121 that was only 3.05 mm thick— it is by far a much better calibre all around.
In addition to having a totally new architecture and finishes that are significantly better than those on its predecessor, this new automatic movement provides a longer power reserve of 50 hours thanks to its larger mainspring barrel.
Audemars Piguet Automatic Calibre 7121
Fitted with a new patented extra-thin quick-set date setting mechanism
Not only this calibre 7121 has more power reserve but it is also more precise and it is fitted with a new patented extra-thin quick-set date setting mechanism —a real upgrade from calibre 2121 which only had a rapid-advance date setting mechanism but not a quick-set.
Calibre 7121 is composed of 268 parts and 33 jewels and it features two gold bridges, one for the balance wheel and the other for the mainspring barrel. Lastly, it is equipped with a special anniversary oscillating weight in 22K gold that has been rhodium plated to match the color of the platinum case. This anniversary open-worked oscillating weight features the ‘50 years’ logo and the engraved Audemars Piguet signature.
Similarly to the case, the oscillating weight has been finished with an alternation of satin-finishing and polished chamfers. The ‘50 years’ oscillating weight will be fitted to the Royal Oak anniversary models throughout 2022.
While the special ‘50 years’ logo on the oscillating weight is very nice, we feel that a different font would’ve been even nicer. For instance choosing the font that AP is using throughout their website to communicate the ‘50th Anniversary’ of the Royal Oak would’ve been our first choice.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' 50th Anniversary ref. 16202PT Platinum wears impeccably. With a density much higher than that of gold —21.45 vs. 19.32 g/cm3— this watch feels top heavy but amazing on the wrist. The watch wears true to its size and very well balanced despite its heavyweight platinum construction. A treat for the eyes and a watch that you won’t see often out there.
Sticker Price $114,100 USD —non-binding at today’s CHF to USD exchange rate. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
