The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph has seen many iterations and facelifts since its launch in 1997-1998 under reference 25860. Perhaps the most significant up until now took place in 2016 when the Royal Oak Chrono reference 26300 went from a 39 mm case to a 41 mm as reference 26320. Then in 2017, its dial was redesigned and reference 26331 replaced reference 26320. Back then, the hour and minute chrono registers were enlarged, the running seconds subdial was scaled down, shorter and wider applied markers were added and the typeface and transfers on the chronograph totalizers were updated. It was not until March 2021, that the Royal Oak Chronograph was released with an in-house chrono movement as reference 26239 but only available in an 18K pink gold case.
“Royal Oak Chronograph has seen many iterations and facelifts since its launch”
Things to Know About the Watch
Along with a 38 mm Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26715 line, a new 41 mm Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26240 line has also been released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Although retaining the aesthetic codes of the original Royal Oak designed by Gérald Genta, these new references present slight evolutions in terms of case, bracelet and dial design. Additional models in 41 and 34 mm will be available in the second half of 2022 to continue the Royal Oak Jubilee. For now, the new models are in stainless steel or 18K pink gold.
Below the new Royal Oak Chronograph 50th Anniversary ref. 26240ST.OO.1320ST.02 next to a discontinued Royal Oak ref. 15400ST.OO.1220ST.01. While both watches sport a 41 mm case, the slightly redesigned case of the new 50th anniversary Royal Oak Chronograph makes the watch appear slightly wider and slender. Both of them are equally gorgeous thanks to their black dials.
For this new iteration of the Royal Oak Chronograph reference 26240, Audemars Piguet has performed subtle changes to the watch case by enlarging the bevels —chamfers— to enhance the play of light between the satin-finished and polished surfaces, and making the watch appear slightly wider and more slender.
Additionally, the caseback has been slightly more integrated into the case middle to sit more comfortably on the wrist. To accentuate the new case design, the first four links of the bracelet are now trapezoid-shaped to taper more. Lastly, the bracelet links are thinner throughout the bracelet, and therefore lighter, offering additional comfort and ergonomics.
With regards to the dial, there are also a bunch of changes that have been made. The luminescent faceted hour markers have been standardized in terms of the size and width between the different models across the collection, regardless of their diameter or metal in order to be cohesive in terms of proportions.
In addition to the markers, the usual applied ‘AP’ logo and ‘Audemars Piguet’ imprint at 12 o’clock has been replaced by a new applied ‘Audemars Piguet’ logo where each letter is interconnected with links approximately the size of a human hair. This new logo on the Royal Oak 50th anniversary models follows the same design and construction of the logo that was first introduced for the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. This logo is made of thin layers of 24K gold, that have been obtained through a chemical process akin to 3D printing known as galvanic growth. Lastly, the minute track, which was previously printed on the tapisserie, now appears on a flat external zone.
The Movement
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 50th Anniversary ref. 26240ST in stainless steel is equipped for the first time with the latest generation in-house chronograph movement, the automatic Calibre 4401, visible through the watch’s sapphire case back. Up until now, this movement was only available in an 18K pink gold model.
The in-house AP calibre 4401 was first introduced in 2019 within the Code 11.59 collection and two years later it was presented powering the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26239OR. This movement features a column wheel and the flyback function that enables to restart of the chronograph without stopping or resetting it first. The column wheel works in collaboration with a vertical clutch system. When the chronograph is started or stopped, the hands respond accordingly without any hint of jumping. Furthermore, the push-pieces feel smoother when pressed. A patented zero resetting mechanism ensures that each one of the counter hands instantaneously resets to zero.
Composed of 381 parts and 40 jewels, the automatic calibre 4401 provides a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The movement features the special ‘50-years’ oscillating weight in rhodium-toned 22K pink gold which will be fitted to all watches during the year 2022.
On the Wrist & Pricing
On the wrist, the new Royal Oak Chronograph 50th Anniversary ref. 26240ST.OO.1320ST.02 wears true to its size and exactly like the previous reference 26239. The new Royal Oak Chronographs 50th anniversary are definitely a great addition to the Royal Oak collection. The stainless steel model now equipped with the in-house calibre 4401 is available with Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 hue —blue—, black, silvery white and khaki green dials.
Sticker Price $33,800 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
