Posts filed under SIHH
SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Redesigned Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Line. Macros and Side-by-Side Shots Next to the First Offshore.
SIHH 2014: A. Lange & Söhne Presents the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna. Live Pictures and Pricing.
A. Lange & Söhne wowed the industry with the unveiling of the horological masterpiece the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar "Terraluna". This fascinating perpetual calendar aside of providing you with four precise jumping displays for the date, day, month and leap year, includes a patent pending orbital moon phase display, a constant force escapement that delivers accurate timekeeping with an outstanding power reserve of 14 days. The watch is available in 18K white gold or 18K pink gold is fitted with two sides equally impressive and very unique in terms of complication and functionality.
Fitted with a solid and robust case measuring 45.5 mm in diameter and 16.5 mm thick, the watch stands out with the regulator layout of scientific precision watches. The movement side presents an innovative and useful orbital moon-phase display that depicts the constellation of the earth, moon, and sun. The circles of the time indication and the perpetual calendar apertures characterize the design of this new watch. The large minute circle is at the top of the dial, while the smaller dials for the hours and seconds are beneath it, shifted toward the right and left.
As was already the case with the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite” presented in 2011, this dial design was inspired by a great historic role model: Johann Heinrich Seyffert’s 1807 regulator from the world-famous timepiece collection of the Mathematics and Physics Salon. With his ingenious designs, Seyffert helped transform Dresden into a hub of precision horology in the early 19th century. A great advantage in precision pocket watches, the regulator format was appreciated not only by time-keeping services and observatories, but also by watchmaking manufactures where it was used for synchronizing new timepieces. This is because it provided an accurate display of the minutes and seconds.
Beneath the characteristic Lange outsize date —the first one in a model of the Richard Lange collection, incidentally— two smaller apertures show the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. Thanks to this arrangement, the calendar displays can be easily read at a glance. The calendar is mechanically programmed to correctly display the different durations of the months in a year as well as those in leap years until 2100. The leap-year indication is located in a small round window on the right-hand side of the 15 of the minute circle. All displays of the calendar switch forward instantaneously to assure unambiguous readings at all times. To keep the power for the switching process as low as possible, the required energy is gradually built up via a cam and then released abruptly at midnight.
An exciting technical innovation can be seen on the movement side: there, the patent-pending orbital moon-phase display shows the location of the moon relative to the earth and the sun – for the first time ever in a wristwatch. The display consists of three discs. On the star-studded celestial disc, the moon –visible through a round aperture– orbits around the earth anti-clockwise once a month. The mechanism reproduces the synodic month of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 3 seconds so precisely that it takes 1058 years before the display needs to be corrected by one day. Beneath it, the lunar disc rotates, featuring two round new moons. The progression of the moon phases can be observed through the aperture in the celestial disc. In the constellation view, the position of the sun is occupied by the balance. On new-moon days, the dark moon stands between the earth and the sun. It appears as a bright sphere on the opposite side of the earth on full-moon days. Thus, the position and phase of the moon are indicated simultaneously. In the center of the display, the earth rotates about its own axis once a day. It is daytime on the half that faces the sun, or the balance, and night-time on the other. The peripheral 24-hour scale provides a time-of-day reference for the northern hemisphere.
The ambitious precision goals of Lange’s product developers come to the fore not only in the configuration of the moon-phase display mechanism, which consists of three solid white-gold discs, but also in its design. To achieve a vivid and aesthetically sophisticated image of the orbiting moon-phase display, they chose a special coating process. On the celestial disc, for example, interference effects absorb all of the non-blue color spectra of the incident light. The result is a deep-blue surface studded with more than a thousand high-contrast, sharply contoured stars.
At the 6-o’clock position, a power-reserve indicator in the form of a circumferential ring tells the owner when the time has come to replenish the movement with fresh energy via the winding crown. The Lange manufacture manual wound calibre L096.1 is crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions with a twin mainspring barrel, constant-force escapement with remontoir spring produced in-house, a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver and a balance cock engraved by hand. This fascinating calibre is composed of 787 parts, 80 jewels —one screwed in a gold chaton— and provides 336 hours of power reserve —14 days— when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph.
The 18K pink gold model ref. 180.032 is fitted with a hand-stitched reddish-brown crocodile strap with Lange deployant buckle, while the 18K white gold model ref. 180.026 comes with a black crocodile strap also with Lange deployant buckle.
Sticker Price 18K white gold 186,000 Euro and 18K pink gold 185,000 Euro.
For more info on A. Lange & Söhne SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.
SIHH 2014: Cartier Presents the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire. Live Pictures and Pricing.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch transforms the very essence of the perpetual calendar's functioning and appearance. The Maison's idea involves inventing a creative central display that stems from a revolutionary concept. Designed like an amphitheater, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual calendar's indications, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display is an incredible watchmaking feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication, which requires the juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of year in a diameter of just a few centimeters. Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a normal year. Consisting of gear trains, the construction of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement is a watchmaking feat that solves all the functional and ergonomic problems connected with this type of complication. It breaks away from the design of traditional perpetual calendars and introduces an alternative that enables any risk of breakage to be anticipated, adjustment errors to be resolved and chronometry to be improved. Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound at inadvisable times. The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly identified. This operating problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators. This ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the functions both forwards and backwards. Wearers of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need no longer fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected. Available in platinum in a limited series of a 100 pieces.
More images and full review coming later.
Sticker Price $150,000 Euro. For more info on Cartier's SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.
SIHH 2014: Cartier Presents the Calibre de Cartier Diver's Watch. Live Pictures and Pricing.
Presented earlier today, the Calibre de Cartier Diver's watch is a true diving watch that meets the standards from the ISO 6425 for diving watches. We also decided to include a few images of the gold version model. Full review and more images to come.
Sticker Price for Stainless Steel model with rubber strap $5,550 Euro and for gold with rubber $19,000 Euro. For more info on Cartier's SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.
SIHH 2014: Cartier Presents the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon. Live Pictures and Pricing.
The fascinating Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch was presented earlier today and we got a few up close shots for you including a wrist shot. This watch is the fruit of a technical and creative ambition that for Cartier consists of bringing together two complications in a daring display. The watch owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by a tourbillon. Together, they form a creative and animated world with skeletonized Roman numerals surrounding this dynamic feat of watchmaking. The moon-phase mechanism of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is founded on a creative and complex design that combines a tourbillon, moon phase on demand and a second time zone. The Tourbillon mechanism is a complex complication that falls within the expertise of a limited number of watchmakers. Its main function is to fight against the effects of gravity when the watch is in a vertical position. Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative. By pressing the push-button situated at four o'clock on the side of the case, a panels descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage. The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon's shape in the sky. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces.
More pictures and full review coming later.
Sticker Price $200,000 Euro. For more info on Cartier's SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.
SIHH 2014: Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Their New Timepieces. All of Them are Just Amazing.
In addition to some of the timepieces that had been unveiled right before the SIHH 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre surprised everyone with a very large number of new watches including the Hybris Mechanica 11, Master Ultra Thin 1907 and Master Ultra Thin Grand Feu, Master Ultra Thin and Master Ultra Thin Date, the chocolate Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time and Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire and the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel amongst others.
More pictures and full reviews to follow. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.
SIHH 2014: IWC Presents the New Aquatimer Collection. Stunning and Well Balanced.
Today at the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, we were able to finally see the new IWC Aquatimer collection composed of nine new gorgeous looking watches. More pictures and full reviews to follow. In the meantime enjoy these images.
For more info on IWC's SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.
SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Reinvents the 42mm Royal Oak Offshore as ref. 26470. Live Pictures and Pricing.
A while back we heard from Francois-Henry Bennahmias that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad would not be discontinued but reinvented. Well, today we finally saw the result from such reinvention not only for the now long gone Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad but also for the whole Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm line. The result a new redesigned case with ceramic pushers, ceramic crown, a more robust crown guard, display case back, a revamped dial layout with méga tapisserie, thinner numbers and very nicely done rubber straps with a very similar look to the strap on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver. The new reference number is now 26470 with six new models in total.
More pictures and details to follow. Sticker Prices:
Stainless steel 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore on Hornback alligator $26,000 USD, Stainless steel 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore Navy on rubber strap $25,600 USD, 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore 18K Rose Gold on strap $40,700 USD and 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore 18K Rose Gold on matching bracelet $69,200 USD.
For more info on Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 novelties click here.
Experience: SIHH 2014. Reporting Live From Geneva, Switzerland.
We will be reporting via this website and our Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Tumblr accounts all week straight from Geneva, Switzerland during the week of the SIHH 2014. Flying from London to Geneva via Swiss Air is always a pleasure.
We have settled into our headquarters for the week at the Intercontinental Geneva and we are ready to start our reporting.
Stay tuned for more as we will be posting updates several times a day.
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News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Hybris Mechanica Eleven Watch. A 75-Piece Limited Edition Ultra Thin Minute Repeater with Flying Tourbillon.
A Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a new era in the world of Grand Complications
In 1907, Jaeger-LeCoultre laid the foundations of what was to prove a key element in the identity of its watches. That was the year when the association between Paris-based businessman Edmond Jaeger and Swiss watchmaker Jacques-David LeCoultre gave birth to the world’s thinnest pocket watch featuring a blend of aesthetic refinement and horological sophistication that only a Manufacture uniting the full range of skills under one roof could hope to achieve. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre confirms its ability to anticipate the future of Fine Watchmaking by unveiling the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon watch, the eleventh creation in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin Grand Complication model.
Eleven, the number standing for inventions and exceeding expectations. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch, a new era – that of ultra-thin Grand Complications.
Think-tanks composed of insatiable visionaries and tireless developers: such is the very nature of the teams at Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. It enables them, just one year after the introduction of the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, to present an authentic pioneer in the field of Grand Complications. The newcomer bears a name revealing a set of technical feats that are bound to stimulate the imagination of Fine Watchmaking connoisseurs. And rightly so. The Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon stems from research on two iconic horological complications. It is indeed the slimmest minute repeater in its category at just 7.9 mm thin. This watch capitalises on eight separate patents, six of which are entirely new. Its entire development process was governed by two watchwords – ingenuity and performance. Its quintessence lies in a successful bid to achieve extreme slenderness while making no compromises on reliability.
Hybris Mechanica Eleven is equipped with an original tourbillon, a high-performance new balance-spring, a peripheral automatic winding system, a retractable single push button, as well as a new minute repeater equipped with a silent-timelapse reduction system. As the latest addition to an illustrious and fertile saga of Jaeger-LeCoultre striking watches, this model consolidates the brand’s leadership in this field. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch resolutely confirms that excellence and surpassing existing limits are second nature to Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Contrary to the classic tourbillon with a construction that tends to obstruct the view of certain components, the Manufacture wished to allow complete visibility of the heart of the watch. Avoiding ordinary solutions, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers have developed and patented an all-new tourbillon. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch is equipped with a world première in the shape of a flying tourbillon fitted with a flying balance-wheel. This technical feat ensures a full view of both balance-wheel and spring that may both be observed in motion from a radically different perspective. The gaze is captivated by the regular swinging of the balance-wheel, with the balance-spring fixed above it in a highly unusual stage-setting. This expressive and appealing construction also contributes to reducing the overall thickness thanks to the prodigious inventiveness of the master-watchmakers in the Manufacture. These substantial developments required rethinking the regulating organ and developing a new balance-spring specifically hand-crafted in the Complications workshop. All the characteristics of this new tourbillon are geared towards achieving extreme precision, watchmaking’s ultimate goal.
In its absolute quest to optimize components, the Manufacture has conceived and developed an automatic winding system that captivates by its remarkable conception and execution. To provide more space and achieve record-breaking ultra-thin dimensions, the winding is handled by a oscillating peripheral weight with a platinum segment visible through narrow openings on the dial. This platinum segment takes advantage of the wearer’s wrist movements to revolve around the dial and wind the mainspring. It is fitted on a ceramic ball bearing mechanism specially developed for this device. It is also extremely effective and able to move freely in either direction. However only clockwise rotation actually winds the calibre. The sculptural purity of the perfectly integrated high-performance oscillating weight becomes an aesthetic element in its own right, thereby further enhancing the graphic power of the watch.
Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch stems from a new line of approach: a minute repeater movement entirely rethought and rebuilt to be ultra-thin. A minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. When there are no quarters to be struck, a lengthy silent timelapse occurs between sounding the hours and the minutes. While there is always such an audible hiatus in the sequence, it is particularly audible when there are no quarters involved. To solve this problem, an innovative system reducing this silent timelapse was developed. It detects the absence of quarters to be struck and thus eliminates the marked pause between striking the hours and minutes. As a result, the appropriate high- and low-pitched notes seamlessly follow their appointed pattern without breaking the tempo. Again as part of an effort to make the watch even slimmer while preserving an extremely pure aesthetic, this minute repeater is activated by a retractable single pushbutton for which the Manufacture has filed a patent. Hybris Mechanica Eleven is equipped with a discreet locking system at 8 o’clock. Actuating it brings out the pushbutton that triggers the minute repeater. Once the minute repeater is activated, the pushbutton returns to its initial recessed position, thus ensuring that nothing disturbs the flowing, elegant appearance of the watch. The discretion, the user-friendliness and the technical feat represented by this retractable push button are not the only advantages of this ingenious innovation. As opposed to the traditional slides used to activate the minute repeater function and for which the length of travel may vary according to the hour to be struck, this construction ensures a constant 2 mm travel distance that is enough to both wind the barrel and trigger the minute repeater.
Issued in a 75-piece limited edition, Hybris Mechanica Eleven is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362 and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is crafted in ultra-white 18-carat gold and teamed with a high-end alligator leather strap secured by a white gold pin buckle. The impressive complexity of Hybris Mechanica Eleven foreshadows the future presentation of the Hybris Artistica collection – of which the mission is to combine the most technical and creative skills of the artisans within a Manufacture housing 180 different forms of know-how. Jaeger-LeCoultre is more strongly inspired than ever by the intangible heritage of the Maison: the unquenchable thirst to push existing boundaries and to create timepieces in the vanguard of innovation. Driven by such strong convictions, Hybris Mechanica Eleven places Jaeger-LeCoultre firmly at the very pinnacle of ultra-thin horology and Grand Complications.
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Movement: Mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 45-hour power reserve, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 471 parts, 4.8 mm thick, 33.3 mm in diameter.
Dial: Silver-toned, grained, Traditional baton-type —transferred.
Hands: Dauphine.
Functions:
Hours, minutes
Minute repeater equipped with silent-timelapse reduction function
Flying tourbillon with flying balance-wheel
Automatic winding via a peripheral oscillating weight
Case: 18-carat extra-white gold, 7.9 mm thick and 41 mm in diameter.
Polished lugs, entirely polished caseband and bezel
Water resistance: 3 bar
Strap: Black high-end Jaeger-LeCoultre alligator leather, white gold high-end pin buckle
Reference: 1313520, 75-piece limited series.
News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Duomètre Unique Travel Time. A Fascinating World Timer Complication.
The Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux undeniably owes its incredible destiny to the inventive spirit of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. Since 1833, every watch bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature is crafted with the same passion, guided by a constant quest for technical enhancement. Each masterpiece, heir to over 180 years of expertise, benefits from state-of-the-art research. A fresh interpretation of the revolutionary Dual-Wing movement, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch in pink gold reflects the technical breakthroughs achieved by the Manufacture in the field of world-time watches and offers original solutions for travelers with a love of Fine Watchmaking.
The Duomètre Unique Travel Time is the first world-time watch enabling to-the-minute adjustment of the second time zone. This enables travelers to accurately set the second time zone on all continents and countries regardless of the time difference. In keeping with the technical and aesthetic spirit of the creations by the Duomètre line signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch reveals the various facets of horological excellence by the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Past, present and future converge in perfect harmony in this exceptional creation.
For this movement, the Dual-Wing system is divided into two distinct mechanisms: the first is devoted to displaying the local time, and the second to showing that in a second time zone. The two mechanisms share the same regulating organ but each has its own independent source of energy, thereby avoiding the losses due to interaction between the mechanisms. The operation of the dual time-zone display does not in any way influence the running of the watch, a fact that considerably enhances the precision of the watch. Each mechanism has a 50-hour power reserve and, governed by a wish to achieve ideal user-friendliness, the same crown serves to wound both barrels. The timekeeping barrel is wound by a counter-clockwise rotation, and the travel-time barrel by a clockwise rotation.
Given the complexity of the functions, the finely grained dial provides impeccable clarity. Two magnificent symmetrically arranged sub-dials lend a perfectly balanced touch to this horological creation: the first sub-dial at 2 o’clock sets the stage for the hour and minute hand; while the second at 10 o’clock hosts the jumping hour and minutes of the travel time. The globe at 6 o’clock displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The globe is synchronized with the travel time. The single crown is used to adjust the local time in position two and the travel time in position one, and, as well as to wind the mainsprings when in position zero. Once both time zones are synchronized, the traveler can simply use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust the jumping hours in the left sub-dial according to the destination, and in case of a non-standard time zone, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position one.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, a remarkably beautiful and exquisitely finished movement is revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its bridges and gear trains are hand-chamfered and feature polished sinks. The moving parts, also hand-chamfered or adorned with polished sinks, are graced with a snailed or smoothed finish. These decorative touches are clearly inspired by the grand tradition of the brand’s pocket-watches and lay new milestones through their exceptionally refined finishing. The engraved names of the cities corresponding to the world’s 24 time zones are also visible through the back.
A worthy heir to the Duomètre line, the pink gold Duomètre Unique Travel Time is a celebration of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking, vividly illustrating over 180 years of history while prefiguring the watchmaking of tomorrow.
Technical Specifications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time:
Movement: New mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 50-hour power reserve for each of the two barrels, 498 parts, 54 jewels, 7.25 mm thick, 34.30 mm in diameter, 28'800 vibrations per hour.
Dial: Grained, silver-toned
Hands: Leaf-type
Functions: Hours, minutes —Home time—, Hour —jumping; 2nd time-zone display—, minutes and world map indication of the two power reserves
Case: Pink gold, 13.65 mm thick, 42 mm in diameter, Polished lugs and satin-brushed caseband.
Water resistance: 5o meters.
Strap: Alligator leather, pink gold pin buckle.
Reference: Q6062520
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Cartier Unveils Two Amazing Rotonde Timepieces. Presenting the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon and the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire.
Celebrating Cartier style in Fine Watchmaking is the Maison's creative approach for 2014. Style is a question of elegance and balance. It is the fountain-head of constant research, supported by technical expertise with a drive that redefines and questions watchmaking conventions by reinventing traditional complications such as the perpetual calendar or by transforming the timeless Tank model. Cartier's achievements in Fine Watchmaking are the fruit of a constantly innovative approach at the service of highly distinctive aesthetics. Its past as an inventor and designer has given rise to a style that favors volume and shapes. The same drive can be seen in the Maison's technical concepts: their freedom and importance have enabled Cartier to revolutionize the representation of time with Fine Watchmaking pieces that adhere to the Manufacture's highest standards. For this 2014 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Cartier expresses the excellence of its craftsmanship with the launch of innovative timepieces bearing the Maison's creative seal.
The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is the fruit of a technical and creative ambition that for Cartier consists of bringing together two complications in a daring display. Removed from its strictly horological role, in which it serves as a guarantee of precision and prestige, a tourbillon has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other. The watch owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by a tourbillon. Together, they form a creative and animated world with skeletonized Roman numerals surrounding this dynamic feat of watchmaking. The moon-phase mechanism of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is founded on a creative and complex design that combines a tourbillon, moon phase on demand and a second time zone. The Tourbillon mechanism is a complex complication that falls within the expertise of a limited number of watchmakers. Its main function is to fight against the effects of gravity when the watch is in a vertical position. Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative. By pressing the push-button situated at four o'clock on the side of the case, a panels descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage. The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon's shape in the sky.
The second time zone of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is indicated by a 24-hour disc that was entirely redeveloped by for the calibre 9440 MC due to the sophistication of its disc display. The result of painstaking work, polished lapis lazuli is used for the dial and the moon panel on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch. The hours and the second time zone are surrounded by a meticulously polished grid in 18-carat white gold. A three-dimensional dial is one of the signature features of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection, alongside Roman numerals that are openworked and chamfered by the hand of a master decorator in a manner akin to a skeleton movement. The exceptional finishes of the 9440 MC are all the more remarkable because the semi-skeletonized bridges on the back of the movement are structured in a star shape, echoing this precious timepiece's lunar and terrestrial character on the case back. With the the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch, the Maison Cartier has created a timepiece that displays an exceptional level of creativity and craftsmanship.
Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon
Case: platinum
Diameter: 47 mm
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Crown: beaded in platinum set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Dial: Lapis lazuli with an 18-carat white gold grid in the form of Roman numerals
Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 47 mm
Case thickness: 16.65 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9440 MC, tourbillon, second time zone, moon phase on demand
Casing-up diameter: 17¼ lines, i.e. 38.8 mm
Total diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 5.65 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 362
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 3 days
Limited series of 50 numbered pieces.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch transforms the very essence of the perpetual calendar's functioning and appearance. The Maison's idea involves inventing a creative central display that stems from a revolutionary concept. Designed like an amphitheater, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual calendar's indications, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display is an incredible watchmaking feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication, which requires the juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of year in a diameter of just a few centimeters. Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a normal year.
Consisting of gear trains, the construction of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement is a watchmaking feat that solves all the functional and ergonomic problems connected with this type of complication. It breaks away from the design of traditional perpetual calendars and introduces an alternative that enables any risk of breakage to be anticipated, adjustment errors to be resolved and chronometry to be improved. Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound at inadvisable times. The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly identified. This operating problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators. This ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the functions both forwards and backwards. Wearers of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need no longer fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected.
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses at its heart a flying tourbillon: a complication that is emblematic of the Fine Watchmaking collection. The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch is certified "Poinçon de Genève", in accordance with the new regulations' requirements. The self-winding calibre 9459 MC is assembled and adjusted in the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking workshops located in the heart of Geneva, upstairs from the Cartier boutique on the rue de Rhône. Its finishes were carried out according to the standards of the most prestigious watchmaking certification. Combining watchmaking innovation and technical creativity, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch follows in the footsteps of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon watches, thus taking its place as a major complication in Cartier's repertoire of watchmaking craftsmanship.
Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire
Case: platinum
Diameter: 45 mm
Crown: beaded in platinum, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Dial: silver-colored Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 15.1 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with automatic winding, calibre 9459 MC, tourbillon and perpetual calendar with circular display, "Poinçon de Genève" certified timepiece
Casing-up diameter: 14 lines, i.e. 31.38 mm
Total diameter: 32 mm
Thickness: 8.1 mm
Number of jewels: 51
Number of parts: 382
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Limited series of 100 numbered pieces.
For more info on Cartier click here.
News: Pre-SIHH 2014 IWC Presents the Revamped Aquatimer Collection. Six New Watches Including One in Bronze.
New Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” Ref. IW379503
The evolution of the diver’s watches from IWC continues. The 2014 Aquatimer collection from IWC Schaffhausen comes with inspired technical features, even more in-house calibres and a patented IWC bracelet quick-change system. For the first time ever, a haute horlogerie complication in the form of a perpetual calendar with a large digital date display appears in this watch family. Bronze likewise makes its debut as a metal for the case of the new Aquatimer Chronograph Edition "Expedition Charles Darwin" ref. IW379503. The Swiss watch manufacturer is also launching four special editions in support of the work of the Charles Darwin Foundation and the Cousteau Society.
The fact that the new Aquatimer watch collection is being launched against the stupendous backdrop of the Galapagos Islands is no coincidence. “Very few regions on Earth are home to such a fascinating diversity of species, both on land and in the ocean, as this unique archipelago,” continues Georges Kern. “Our Aquatimer watches are the perfect companion for demanding expeditions above and below water, and are entirely in their element in this natural paradise. But the massive extent of the threat posed to this World Heritage Site is also clear to us.”
Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” Ref. IW379502
For the first time ever, a model from the IWC diver’s watch line is equipped with a perpetual calendar, a genuinely haute horlogerie complication. The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month ref. IW379401 is a genuinely big watch from two points of view. On the one hand, there is the IWC-manufactured 89801 calibre with perpetual calendar and large digital display for the date and month, a feature very much in the Pallweber tradition of 1884. On the other, the flagship of the new collection —which is limited to just 50 watches, incidentally— comes with an impressive case diameter of 49 mm. This makes the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month the second-largest wristwatch in IWC’s history, after the Big Pilot’s Watch of 1940. Following in the footsteps of the GST Deep One of 1999 and the Aquatimer Deep Two of 2009, the Aquatimer Deep Three in titanium ref. IW355701 is the third generation of IWC’s diver’s watches to feature a mechanical depth gauge. Both the depth gauge and the rotating bezel system have been continuously developed and improved. During a dive, the blue depth indicator moves to show current dive depth, while the red maximum depth indicator remains at the maximum depth attained, down to a maximum of 50 metres. The Aquatimer Deep Three thus provides a complete backup system to a dive computer. Built for extreme depths, the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 ref. IW358002, water-resistant to 200 bar, continues IWC’s tradition of manufacturing timepieces that can withstand extraordinarily high pressures for both amateur and professional divers. Its titanium case and minimalist design are reminiscent of another iconic IWC model: the Ocean 2000, created by Ferdinand A. Porsche in 1982. The Aquatimer Automatic 2000 features the rugged IWC-manufactured 80110 calibre with Pellaton winding system. With the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos” ref. IW379504, limited to 500 watches, IWC honours the 50th anniversary of the Charles Darwin Research Station, a scientific institution set up by the Charles Darwin Foundation. The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” ref. IW379502, which comes with identical technology, has been an expression of IWC’s commitment to the threatened archipelago. Both watches are powered by an IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre and have an attractive black rubber coating. With the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” ref. IW379503, IWC Schaffhausen traces the journey of the well-known naturalist to the Galapagos Islands. Here, Darwin collected the evidence that formed the basis of his theory on the origin of species. As a tribute to this event, and for the first time ever, IWC Schaffhausen makes use of bronze for a watch case: the metal alloy was one of the materials typically used in shipbuilding at that time. This special edition is also equipped with the IWC manufactured 89365 calibre.
Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002
“The 2014 Aquatimer collection perfectly epitomizes the concept of evolution: remaining successful is all about continuous development,” says Goris Verburg, Director Marketing & Communication IWC Schaffhausen. “That’s the reason why we gave the watch family its first comprehensive relaunch since 2009, without altering its DNA. We retained the qualities our customers appreciate so highly in the Aquatimer watches – the fact that they’re robust and elegant, as equally well suited to diving or an expedition to the Galapagos as to a business meeting. The combination of sport and adventure, outstanding technology and masculine appeal embodied by the diver’s watches perfectly reflects the central message of IWC ‘Engineered for men’.”
The most conspicuous technical modification in the new Aquatimer generation is the innovative external/internal rotating bezel complete with IWC SafeDive system. The mechanism combines the advantages of an internal rotating bezel, which engages precisely in steps of one minute and protects the mechanism against dirt and seawater, with the ease of use of an external rotating bezel that can be moved simply by a diver wearing gloves or with cold fingers. A sliding clutch system connects the two rings by the rotation of the external bezel being transmitted to the inside of the case and the internal bezel. For safety reasons, the internal bezel only moves anticlockwise. This ensures that, even if a diver were to move the bezel accidentally, zero hour – the time at which he can return safely to the surface without the need for decompression stops – would not be exceeded. The Super-LumiNova®* coating for the dive time scale on the internal bezel guarantees excellent legibility at all times, no matter how poor the visibility. The two colours, which glow in the dark, are also an aid to orientation on the dial: green for displays relevant to dive time, blue for the hour display.
For more info on IWC Schaffhausen click here.
News: Pre SIHH 2014 Piaget Presents the Altiplano 38mm 900P. The World's Thinnest Mechanical Watch Merging Calibre and Case.
Neither entirely a movement nor exactly a case – or rather both at once: introducing the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Merging the hand-wound calibre with the case elements, it is designed as a single entity in order to achieve record-breaking slenderness at just 3.65 mm thin. Representing a crowning achievement in over half a century of virtuoso skills displayed in the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking where Piaget reigns supreme, it conveys the excellence of the two integrated Manufactures run by the Maison. Places where the skills of the watchmakers, case constructors and designers converge in giving life to this masterpiece of reliability and precision.
2014 is a vintage year for Piaget! The Maison is celebrating its 140th anniversary and marks the occasion by launching a model that is set to defy the conventions of ultra-thin Fine Watchmaking for many years to come: the Altiplano 38 mm 900P. While clearly geared towards cutting-edge innovation, it is also a nod to history, since it gets the 900P part of its name from Calibre 9P, which was the first ultra-thin hand-wound movement made by Piaget in 1957. That particular mechanism measured just 2 mm thin and sealed Piaget’s destiny in the field of ultra-thin horology. By 1960, Piaget was ready to set a first record with its Calibre 12P, the world’s thinnest automatic movement at just 2.3 mm. The following years witnessed a spate of new slimness records in the fields of hand-wound and automatic models, with or without horological complications – like Calibre 600P, the world’s thinnest hand-wound shaped tourbillon movement; and 1208P, an automatic movement that was also the thinnest in its category, to mention just a couple of these feats. Constantly reaffirming its unconditional love of slim mechanisms, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget has produced no less than 23 ultra-thin calibres out of the 35 movements developed and produced in-house, of which 12 have set new records for thinness over the past few years and are now part of the collection.
While the Altiplano 38 mm 900P merges the case and movement to establish itself as the thinnest mechanical watch ever, it also stems from another fusion without which such a feat would have been impossible: that of the two Manufactures Piaget – one based in La Côte aux Fées, where the movements are traditionally made; and the other in Plan-les-Ouates, where the cases are crafted. These skills are now inextricably intermingled, since within the Altiplano 38mm 900P, the mechanism and the external components form a single indivisible entity. For a full three years, watchmakers, case constructors and designers worked together at each stage of development, production, adjustment and finishing in order to give life to this slender marvel. Each technical choice had an aesthetic impact, and vice versa. While each of the 145 parts composing the Altiplano 38 mm 900P has been trimmed to a size sometimes barely thicker than a hair’s breadth –including some wheels measuring a mere 0.12 mm thin compared with 0.20 mm on a classic movement– special care has been devoted to clearances. In other words, the process involved cleverly arranging the components to within the nearest hundredth of a millimetre so as to create optimal play between the fixed and mobile organs, while being careful to ensure that the later move freely and thus guarantee the smooth running of the mechanism.
Nonetheless, the true secret of this extreme slenderness lies in the structure of the case itself, of which the back also serves as the mainplate. Thereby merging calibre and case, the latter was machined directly from the case back in order to house the mechanical parts. This highly complex architecture meant reversing movement construction so as to fit the bridges on the dial side —an approach that also has an aesthetic effect by keeping them visible. To save another precious few millimetres, the entire mechanism and the hand-fitting system are contained within the thickness of the balance-wheel itself, thus entailing an off-centered display of the hours and minutes entirely in tune with the iconic design features of the Altiplano line. These characteristics are further enhanced by the entirely visible wheeltrain that invites the owner of the watch to plunge into the very heart of this supremely slender and technically sophisticated mechanism. Working within this extremely confined space, Piaget has devised a suspended barrel hanging from a single bridge on the dial side, contrary to classic barrels that are also fixed to the mainplate side. This highly unusual device is no way detrimental to the performance of the mechanism, since the Altiplano 38 mm 900P has a generous power reserve of around 48 hours.
When a watch is subjected to strong pressure, such as when immersed in water, its glass or crystal is slightly deformed. While this physical phenomenon goes relatively unnoticed on a classic timepiece, the same is certainly not true of an ultra-thin watch. Given the extremely confined space available, the glass would be liable to press on the hands when deformed, thus causing the movement to stop. To avoid this challenge to any ultra-thin model, Piaget has come up with a revolutionary device —patent pending— representing a major breakthrough in ensuring the reliability of this type of watch. Instead of fitting the hands above the bridges, Piaget has placed them underneath, thereby freeing up space between the cannon-pinion and the crystal. When the latter is deformed by the effects of pressure, it presses not on the hands – placed below the bridge level – but instead on the wheel-train bridge, thus avoiding any consequences on the rate of the movement. While for Piaget, the extreme slimming down of the parts in an ultra-thin watch must in no way compromise its reliability, the same goes for the level of finishing. The Altiplano 38 mm 900P is no
exception to the rule. Even though some of its 145 parts remain hidden from sight, all of them have been meticulously finished in keeping with the noblest horological traditions, through countless hours of patient work rendered even trickier by the extraordinary slenderness of the components. The mainplate carved out of the watch case-back has been satin-brushed and sandblasted, while the wheels are alternately sunburst or circular satin-brushed. Hollowed so as to reveal the subtle mechanical
intricacies at the heart of the Altiplano 38 mm 900P, the bevelled and satin-brushed sunburst bridges are black-coated to create elegant contrasts with the white gold case. The index-assembly bearing the Piaget “P” strikes a resounding signature note within this subtly orchestrated Fine Watchmaking symphony.
Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Piaget click here.
Technical Specifications
Piaget Altiplano 900P
Case Diameter: 38 mm. Thinnest ever mechanical in 18K white gold.
Calibre and case merge to form a seamless whole with a black-coated movement
Strap: Black alligator leather strap with 18K white gold pin buckle
Power reserve: approx. 48 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph /3 Hz
Thickness: 3.65 mm (case + movement)
Number of jewels: 20
Number of components: 145 (case + movement)
News: Pre SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate Dial. Absolute Elegance in a Pink Gold Case.
Over the years, the Reverso has appeared in a number of different guises and been enriched with various unusual sizes and new horological complications – all the while remaining loyal to the spirit of the watch with two faces. On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of this timepiece that has become a cult object, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to return to the very origins of a legend by presenting the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, directly inspired by the aesthetic codes of the historical model. This creation, distinguished by an ultra-thin case, contemporary dimensions and remarkably faithfulness to the original, was enthusiastically received by devotees of the Reverso and by watch connoisseurs who expressed the wish that this vintage edition should not remain a one-off model. In response to their desires, the Manufacture already introduced the Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial in 2012, followed the next year by the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue. For 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the third member of this splendid trilogy: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate-toned dial.
The new model, entirely in keeping with its historical ascendance, vividly evokes the finest hours of Art Deco. Its shapes, its color and its materials are the ultimate expression of a movement that heralded the inception of industrial design while favoring hand craftsmanship executed to perfection. Entranced by this delightful color palette, the eye naturally lingers on the pleasing contrasts between the glowing chocolate shade of the watch face and the pink gold of the case, including the traditional gadroons framing the dial. This irresistible association is further underscored by the judicious reinterpretation of the aesthetic principles governing the original. Apart from the 12 o’clock numeral, the hours are shown by baton-shaped hour-markers, while the hour and minute hands feature a dagger-type profile. The small seconds at 6 o’clock perform a once a minute rotation on the dedicated rectangular subdial. This picture of pure, restrained refinement would not be complete without a mention of the “REVERSO” inscription exactly reproducing that appearing on the historical model. Everything might seem to have been said, and yet it is only now that the distinctive emotional ties uniting an owner and his Reverso can begin to be woven.
The usual chestnut brown alligator leather strap with pink gold pin buckle is just one of the options proposed by the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux for securing the Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 to the wrist. Polo players, who have been wild about the Reverso for over 80 years, are no less demanding when it comes to choosing the pair of boots they will wear to compete in various prestigious tournaments. They show no hesitation in confidently striding through the doors of Casa Fagliano, established since 1892 in the worldwide polo capital, Buenos Aires. For well over a century, the Fagliano family has been dedicated to a single craft of which it masters all the mysteries and intricacies: fine leather work. The descendants of the company founder continue to share the many duties involved in an authentic family-style division of labor. Their creations are keenly sought-after by the best polo players who simply could not imagine playing a match without their favorite boots. For the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Casa Fagliano has agreed to produce hand-crafted straps in successive stages following the strict principles of time-honored tradition in working with cordovan leather, which is renowned for its exceptional resistance. Delivered along with each watch, the strap made in the Casa Fagliano workshops is distinguished by its elegant suppleness and hand-made mode of production that makes it truly one of a kind. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud of this partnership that further strengthens the ties between polo and the Reverso. Over eight decades since its birth, aesthetes will be more delighted than ever to welcome the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931, which combines passion and prodigious expertise with the legendary quality characterizing all timepieces bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature.
For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specifications
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate Dial ref. Q2782560.
Movement: Mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 21,600 vph, 19 jewels, thickness of 2.95 mm, 45-hour power reserve.
Dial: Chocolate dial with powdered numerals and hour-markers.
Hands: Baton-type, faceted, gold plated
Case: 18-carat pink gold with a height of 46.8 mm, a width of 27.4 mm and a thickness of 7.3 mm with a polished finish.
Water-resistant: 3 bars/30 meters.
Straps and buckle: Matte brown alligator leather 20/18 and 2nd strap in cordovan leather, crafted by “Casa Fagliano” of Buenos Aires fitted with a pin buckle in 18 carat pink gold.
News: Pre SIHH 2014 A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. More Than 300 Laser-Cut Stars on its Moon Phase Disc.
Pre SIHH 2014, A. Lange & Söhne unveils the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase that gives the exactly calculated to 122.6 years moon phase display a shiny appearance on the dial. A patented method of coating the moon's disk gives this astronomical complication a highly detailed appearance. The moon is a fascinating celestial body. It determines not only the tides, but also affects the rhythm of life of many creatures and plants. A moon phase display is therefore highly appreciated by many watch lovers.
Since its relaunch, the Saxon manufacture has presented twelve models with such a complication. However, never before the moon phase display has been so prominent as it is in the new Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase. The popular astronomical display received a large stage on the dial. You can now clearly see how the moon phase display follows the actual phases of the moon in a remarkably realistic manner because it is linked to the continuum of the hour. Thus, it is — just like the moon itself— always on the move and in such small steps that you cannot detect this movement with the naked eye.
In addition, the moon phase indicator represents the time from new moon to new moon with an accuracy of 99.9978 percent. 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds , the average synod lunar months. For simplicity, the cycle is therefore rounded in most classical moon phase displays to 29.5 days. This leads per cycle to a deviation of 44 minutes and 3 seconds, which adds up after two and a half years to one day. The much more accurately calculated seven-gear on the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase reduces the deviation per lunar cycle to less than a minute. Once set up properly, you would have to correct the display by one day after 122.6 years. With a corrector pushpiece between 7 and 8 o'clock on the case band, the display can be adjusted. The solid gold moon disc testifies the perfection claim of the Lange product developers. The result of extensive research and development work is a patented coating process that through an unparalleled color brilliance and sharpness of all the details meets the highest aesthetic standards. Due to interference effects —the superposition of reflections— all non-blue color components of the incoming daylight are absorbed. So is in the eye of the beholder an intensely blue color impression. The more than 300 stars of different size are cut so sharply drawn with a laser that they act like a miniaturized representation of the Milky Way .
With the combination of decentralized dial design, large date and technically advanced caliber, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase bears all the marks of the most famous family of watches from A. Lange & Söhne. The calibre with an impressive power reserve of 72 hours is only 4.7 mm thick thanks to the use of only one barrel. The case, available in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum has a diameter of 41.0 mm. With a balance spring developed and manufactured in-house, a three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver and intricately hand decorated parts, the Lange calibre L095.3 features all the classic elements of the timepieces from this manufacture.
For more info on A. Lange & Söhne click here.
News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Audemars Piguet Presents the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon.
Bright, white, sleek and powerful, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon to be presented for the first time at the SIHH —Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie— 2014 in Geneva is a watch for avant-garde collectors and connoisseurs that brooks no compromise in either technical or aesthetic terms.
Its sculpted titanium case middle and integrated rubber strap combine with a white ceramic bezel to frame the highly architectural array of tourbillon carriage and second ‘GMT’ time-zone display inside —case and movement in perfect harmony. New for 2014, however, is the flash of pure white center-stage: an intricately machined upper bridge made of white ceramic —only possible now, thanks to Audemars Piguet’s ongoing advances in materials science.
The Concept evolution
The Royal Oak Concept was first unveiled in 2002 as an avant-garde, 30th-anniversary tribute to Audemars Piguet’s legendary octagonal Royal Oak – designed by Gérald Genta as the world’s first luxury watch in stainless steel.
The Concept’s ultra-hard Alacrite 602 case was more rounded to highlight Genta’s signature octagonal bezel and its eight hexagonal screws. The dial was left off, exposing the advanced micro-mechanics ticking within. All these revolutionary design codes have persisted throughout the Concept series, from 2008’s Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph – an ultra-light timepiece that was the first to combine a forged-carbon case and movement mainplate – to the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon of 2011, with ultra-light, ultra-resistant titanium case and black-ceramic octagonal bezel, push pieces and crown.
This year’s Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon features a white ceramic bezel, crown and push pieces instead of black, all heightening the contrast with the titanium case middle. However, in typical, trailblazing style, the Manufacture has now gone one step further and incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Calibre 2913 with white ceramic. As a result, the new Calibre 2930 is visually transformed, its dazzling, hourglass-shaped bridge further enlivened by the double symmetry of the tourbillon bridges and GMT display.
Materials know-how
White ceramic is about nine times harder than steel, meaning the manufacture of the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, push pieces, crown and especially its intricately shaped upper bridge was a complex and lengthy process.
Ceramic is an almost totally scratch-proof composite material that can be scratched only by diamonds, calling for the use of special milling-cutter machines equipped with diamond-tipped tools. Treating the roughed-out surfaces and edges to a polished or satin-brushed finish represents a daunting technical challenge, due to ceramic’s inherent resistance to abrasion. It takes around 8 hours to make the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s bezel, compared with 45 minutes if it were steel, calling upon all the savoir-faire of the watchmakers and engineers. As well as giving an exceptionally smooth final appearance, ceramic has a practical purpose, displaying extreme resistance to wear.
Similarly, the titanium used for the case middle and sapphire surround is ultra strong, comfortable to wear twice and as light as steel – advantageous for a watch of such generous 44mm proportions. Further demonstrating Audemars Piguet’s deeply entrenched knowledge of high-tech metals and materials, the inner flange circling the dial is made of lightweight aluminum, hardened by anodization.
This daring cocktail of ceramics and metals is just the latest chapter in Audemars Piguet’s ongoing quest to push the envelope when it comes to materials science —a quest that started over 40 years ago with the Manufacture’s most daring move of all, using steel in a luxury watch for the very first time.
Technical tour de force
The defining characteristic of Audemars Piguet’s Concept watches has always been the coherence of case and movement. The ultra-modern ‘engine’ is seamlessly integrated within its ultra-modern ‘chassis’, whose techy aesthetic perfectly complements and showcases the exposed micro-mechanics.
An impressive feat in its own right, the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon’s hand-wound Calibre 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring 10-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time-zone ‘GMT’ display.
Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every 60 seconds, compensating for the effects of the Earth's gravity when the watch is oriented vertically for any length of time.
The tourbillon cage comprises 85 components, yet only 0.45g in weight. An experienced watchmaker spends almost three days assembling its 85 components, including two full days to install the cage, while the full workings will require over two weeks of work. Audemars Piguet is still one of the few manufactures to have mastered all the intricacies of this complication, with over 25 different movements featuring a tourbillon. Each component is beveled, polished, assembled and balanced by hand.
The GMT display provides an instant reading of the time in a second time-zone. It is adjusted using the push piece at 4 o’clock (one press adjusts the time by one hour). The indication of the second time-zone, based on 12 hours, comprises two superimposed discs, making it easy to tell the time. The first, on which the figures are inscribed, completes one turn in 12 hours. The second, just below, completes a turn in 24 hours and has 2 colored areas: a white half for daytime and a black half for night-time. This makes it easier to read the figures.
Audemars Piguet’s proprietary parallel double barrel system ensures the Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon runs for as many as 10 days before it needs to be manually wound again, generating a constant force during some 237 hours of autonomy, enhancing timekeeping precision.
The energy from Calibre 2930’s two 10-day barrels is fed into the geartrain at the same time via a single pinion bridging the two. This is a far gentler means of transmitting energy than the usual system of two series-linked 5-day barrels. It also reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the barrels is used to offset torque variations, and it gives increased running precision, greater power reserve and enhanced reliability.
The Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon also features a selection indicator mechanism. According to the position of the winding stem, the hand positioned on the dial at 6 o’clock indicates the function selected. The H, N and R indications correspond to the three positions of the winding stem, meaning time-setting, neutral and winding respectively.
For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
Technical Data
Movement
Calibre 2930, hand-wound manufacture
Total diameter: 35.60mm (15 ¾ lines)
Thickness: 9.90mm
Number of jewels: 29
Number of parts: 291
Power reserve: 237h
Frequency of balance wheel: 3Hz (21,600vph)
White ceramic upper bridge
Finishing: hand-finished bridges and mainplate, hand finished cut-out parts, polished angles, hand-drawn file strokes on upper surface and matt finish beneath.
Case
Titanium case
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
White ceramic bezel
Screw-locked crown and white ceramic push piece
Water-resistant to 100m
Display
Openworked
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock
Crown position indicator at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon at 9 o’clock with black anodized aluminum bridge
White gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
Black anodized aluminum inner bezel
Bracelet
White rubber strap with titanium AP folding clasp
Function
24-hour GMT display
Day and night indicator
Functions selection
Hours and minutes
Reference
RO 26580IO.OO.D010CA.SDT
News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Vacheron Constantin Presents the Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine. A 50-Piece Limited Edition.
Pure, rare, and eternal, platinum is the ultimate material in the field of Fine Watchmaking. To honor this intrinsic alliance between pure mechanical refinement and inestimably precious material, Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine in 2006, composed of creations issued in limited series and designed for collectors of outstanding timepieces. This year the Malte Tourbillon —introduced in pink gold in 2012— joins this exceptional collection. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication with the new Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine.
On a pure, uncluttered 950 platinum dial with a sandblasted finish, discreetly adorned with the inscription “Pt 950” appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock, along with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new refined lines of the Malte collection. Its 6 o’clock position implied subtly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands that thereby stand out majestically above their beating heart.
The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine comes with a curving 38 x 48.24 case in 950 platinum. Secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp, the dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap is graced with a saddle-stitched finish, hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum threads lending an ultimate touch of perfection. This model is released in a 50-piece individually numbered edition.
Such an exceptional watch naturally deserved an equally exceptional movement. The 169-part mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795 endows this model with an almost two-day power reserve. This tonneau-shaped movement perfectly tailored to the case is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture.
The tourbillon carriage, inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross emblem, provides a splendid showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles. Rounding off the tourbillon bar alone called for 12 hours of hand craftsmanship in order to meet the finishing criteria established by Vacheron Constantin. This technique, referred to in French as berçage, consists of filing the tips of the arms with perfect regularity so as to give them a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the center and the heels. To finalize the operation, the artisans smooth it down using stones, buffs, wooden pegs and special pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.
The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine also meets the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève or Hallmark of Geneva. Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Hallmark is a guarantee of origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. This guarantee of quality no longer applies to the movement alone, but instead to the entire timepiece, thereby representing a major evolution for this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and has now opted to respond more fully than ever to the demands of an ever more well-informed clientele.
TECHNICAL DATA
Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
Référence 30130/000P-9876
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Calibre 2795
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.37 x 29.30 mm (12 ’’’ ¼ x 12 ’’’ ¾)
6.10 mm thick
Approximately 45 hours power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
169 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours
Minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case Platinum 950
38 mm x 48.24, 12.73 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Platinum 950, sand-blasted
« Pt 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Black painted indications
18K gold applied hour-markers
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp Folding triple-blade clasp in platinum
For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.
