The Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin —Divine Time— series explores the notion of time in its various cultural and conceptual perceptions: physical and linear like a chronology; astronomical and cyclical like the seasons; metaphysical in the infinite stretching of the present moment. For each of these interpretations, Vacheron Constantin offers a journey towards different cultural horizons, a horological odyssey punctuated by the mechanics of time and staged by artistic crafts.
Going back to the mythological origins of Time, Vacheron Constantin has focused on its physical dimension through Greek mythology, with the representation of the God Chronos. Both watches are powered by the Calibre 1990 with a bi-axial tourbillon and retrograde hour indications protected by four patents. A combination of engraving and guilloché work are part of these two watches that are cased in 18K 5N pink gold and 18K white gold.
The deity Chronos from Greek mythology has been chosen to embody organized and measurable physical and linear time. The latter takes the form of two editions equipped with Calibre 1990, featuring a bi-axial armillary tourbillon regulator system with retrograde hours and minutes indication.
Le Temps Divin —Divine Time—, a theme devoted to the myths and cultural perceptions of time, takes a documented approach brought to life by Vacheron Constantin's watchmakers and artisans. The physical notion of time —a linear, measurable concept— is represented by the "features" of the Greek god Chronos — Saturn in Roman mythology— father of the Horae —Hours—, goddesses who personified the division of time.
The Maison is no stranger to such evocations of ancient myths from Greco-Roman tradition. As showcased in numerous heritage pieces dating from the early 20th century, the depiction of figures from the pantheon or scenes from Hellenic daily life has often inspired Vacheron Constantin's artisans, as have the most distinctive monuments and decorative elements of these two civilizations, such as the Colosseum in Rome.
The Movement
The timepieces evoking the god Chronos are equipped with Calibre 1990, whose black or blue colour — depending on the version— respectively results from NAC or PVD treatment. Protected by four patents, this movement has benefited from the technical developments made on the Les Cabinotiers Reference 57260, the most complex timepiece in the world when it was presented in 2015 with its 57 complications.
A manual-winding movement with a 60-hour power reserve, Calibre 1990 features an instantaneous bi-retrograde display of time indications and a bi-axial armillary tourbillon with a spherical balance spring. The time can be read on the right-hand side thanks to a retrograde display with grade 5 titanium hands on a semi-circular track punctuated by Roman numerals for the hours and Arabic numerals for the minutes. Confined to a wide flange, this track reveals part of the movement, reinforcing the technical aspect of the timepiece already accentuated by the majestic construction of the regulator.
The configuration of Calibre 1990 leaves ample space on the left-hand part of the dial, occupied only by the bi-axial armillary tourbillon positioned at 9 o'clock beneath a bubble formed by the sapphire crystal. The distinctive feature of this regulator —operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and bearing the small seconds hand— is its dual-axis construction with two interlocking aluminium carriages, each rotating at a speed of 60 seconds. At the heart of the tourbillon is a spherical balance-spring with no terminal curve, whose perfectly concentric beating ensures greater isochronism and therefore enhanced precision, in addition to the beneficial effect of the regulator's rotation that neutralises the effects of Earth's gravity.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Greek Mythology Armillary Tourbillon Ode to Chronos
Cased in a very generous 45 mm 18K 5N Pink Gold case where all the surfaces of the case components are decorated by the engraver, the case is also quite thick at 20.10 mm. Geometrical motifs inspired by Greek friezes adorn the bezel, the case middle on the winding-crown side, the lugs and their sides, the interior space, and the folding clasp. These are etched using the taille de joue intaglio technique used for ornamental engraving that involves working the material by tilting the chisel to achieve incisions of different sizes with depth effects through the brilliance of light.
This process is particularly well-suited to small surfaces with grooves of no more than 0.2 mm, which are further enhanced by surface finishing using various polishing techniques. For the engraver, the difficulty lies in the regularity of touch when it comes to creating perfectly geometrical motifs, especially when their dimensions have to be adapted to irregular surfaces, such as watch lugs.
This accurate craftsmanship is complemented by a bas-relief depiction of the god himself holding the hourglass of time in his hand. This realistic micro-sculpture adorning the case middle at 9 o'clock is modeled in relief by removing the material to a depth of 0.5 mm for the sky and clouds in the background and 1 mm for the divine figure and its two wings.
Delicately chiselled with burins of different sizes, the volumes are further refined with drypoint to bring out every detail, before the surfaces are polished and sandblasted to highlight the contrasts. In all, the engraving on this piece took more than 290 hours of craftsmanship, complemented by the hand-guilloché Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the movement main plate and bridges. The case back bears Ovid's famous injunction: "Carpe Diem".
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Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Greek Mythology Armillary Tourbillon Tribute to Infinite Time
The 18K white gold model also measuring 45 mm in diameter by 20.10 mm in thickness is inspired by the famous dome of the Pantheon in Rome. The sides of the case were entrusted to the expert hands of the engraver, who picked up the geometrical motifs of the dome with its radiant perspective. To achieve the effect of pyramidal depth on a flat surface, the engraver uses the taille de joue method, changing the angle of the chisel to gradually narrow the furrows between the squares of the motif. This optical illusion is a real challenge, as it has to adapt to the changing shape of the case middle that tapers towards the lugs. Some 120 hours of work are needed to achieve this result.
The Master guillocheur was also involved in embellishing the calibre. As a reminder of the ornamentation on the case, an original geometrical motif was devised, extending over the movement main plate and bridges. In addition to the difficulty of creating an angular geometric motif on rounded bases, the artisan has created seamless, harmonious, and continuous decoration, despite the cut-out of the three bridges on the back of the movement.
Sticker Price Upon Request. More info on Vacheron Constantin here.
