Finally, we got to see in the metal at the SIHH 2017, two new watches from Panerai we just couldn't wait to see in person. But first, just a little history before we go into the details on these two watches. In the late 1930s, Panerai made a number of Radiomir watches with a special 12-sided bezel, engraved with the words “OFFICINE PANERAI – BREVETTATO”. This inscription 'Brevettato' —which means Patented— referred to the patented luminous substance Radiomir used on the dial and it suggests that the watches were used not for military operations but for presenting to the authorities of the Royal Italian Navy, which was evaluating new instruments for underwater missions. The new Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio models PAM 685 and PAM 687 are simply stunning in the metal. While we were on the fence when we received the press release on these new pieces a few months ago, we were blown away by both watches —but more so by the PAM 687 with tropical inspired dial— once we have them on our hands at the SIHH 2017 here in Geneva.
The Case & Bezel
Perfectly executed in a vintage-inspired way, the new Panerai Radiomir 3 Days PAM 685 and PAM 687 include a 12-sided bezel in brushed steel with smoothed polished angles and the same engraving as the historic models, using the lettering of the time. The bezel is screwed onto the cushion-shaped Radiomir 47 mm case and together with the screwed back forming the rear part of the case, like the historic watches it has an elegant symmetrical construction divided into three parts, clearly visible when looking at the case in profile. Watches are water resistant to 30 meters and delivered with a spare second Plexiglas like the first generation of the Luminor 1950 3 Days PAM 372.
The Strap
In good old Radiomir fashion, the wire loop strap attachments are removable, making it easy to replace the Ponte Vecchio untreated brown leather strap with ecru contrast stitching and equipped with a large trapezoidal pin buckle.
The Dial
Another fascinating element inspired by the historic models is the dial. Both new watches PAM 685 and PAM 687 are fitted with matte sandwich dials with 'ecru' superluminova. The dial on the Radiomir 3 Days PAM 685 is black, while the dial on the Radiomir PAM 687 in a shaded brown color is reminiscent of the 'Tropical' dials on historic Panerai pieces. After perusing both watches during the SIHH 2017, all we can say is that the shaded brown 'Tropical' inspired dial is simply breathtaking and the way to go at least for us.
The Movement
Both new Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio 'Brevettato' PAM 685 and PAM 687 are fitted with a display case back and powered by the Panerai in-house calibre P.3000 completely developed and produced at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. This double-barrel movement provides a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound.
On the Wrist & Pricing
On the wrist, the new Panerai Radiomir 'Brevettato' PAM 685 and PAM 687 wear true to their 47 mm size and with remarkable vintage-inspired wrist presence. While both models are really nice in the metal, the PAM 687 with shaded brown 'tropical' inspired dial is simply stunning and the one we would pick if we could only have one of them. The watches are definitely worth the money and priced simply right. A perfect addition to the Panerai historic models and a home run from Panerai at the SIHH 2017. The watches are also accompanied by a special box which includes the Limited Edition certificate and a rare publication that talks about military equipment for the Royal Italian Navy.
Sticker Price $9,800 USD. For more info on Officine Panerai click here.
