Here at WCL, we have a sweet spot for Panerai watches and while we typically prefer those that are strongly inspired by the most legendary historical Panerai watches, there are certain more modern interpretations —that even when their design sways away from the historical DNA of Panerai—that we also find very interesting. While the Panerai bracelet is a thing of the present that was designed in the modern era —none of the Panerai historical timepieces were ever fitted with a bracelet—, we absolutely love the look of it and we see it as the most ‘underappreciated’ option that can make any 44 mm Panerai look simply out of this world.
Panerai released their first stainless steel bracelet more than a decade ago and in 2020 they presented the third-generation of this bracelet. While the first and third-generation bracelets feature links that resemble the look of their crown protecting device, the second-generation bracelet is a much sleeker, cleaner, and seamlessly flowing bracelet.
The Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT PAM320 equipped with a second-generation Panerai stainless steel bracelet is one of the most perfect Panerai watches out there. In terms of proportions, the 44 mm case along with the iconic crown protecting device makes for a very wearable watch and when combined with a stainless steel bracelet —rather than a rubber or leather strap—, the end result is as sexy as it gets. And as far as lume goes, Panerai continues to be the ‘king of lume.’
The Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT PAM320 brings the best from the Panerai DNA in a watch that features a GMT complication paired with a power reserve indicator on the movement that is visible via the display case back. The in-house Panerai calibre P.9001 powering the PAM320 is an automatic movement with a three-day power reserve that was fully designed, developed and produced at Panerai in Neuchâtel.
What makes the Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT PAM320 so perfect in our opinion, is that the watch becomes an absolute beast when its robust case construction is paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet features a double-folding clasp and very solid construction. In terms of comfort, this bracelet is as comfortable as it gets thanks to the supple design of its slightly curved links that wrap around the wrist like a glove. Next to an AP Royal Oak bracelet —the best in the watch industry— or a Rolex Oyster bracelet, this bracelet comes right behind the other two in terms of comfort.
If you still think that Panerai watches look the best on a strap, we challenge you to try one on the second-generation bracelet and see for yourself how sexy and good this watch looks.
If you find one, expect to pay anywhere between $7,500-8,500 USD based on the availability of boxes and papers and the overall condition of the watch. As a side note, the bracelet alone will set you back around $2,400 at Panerai. The Panerai Luminor 1950 GMT PAM320 was only sold on a strap and the bracelet was added at a later time.
For more info on Officine Panerai click here.
