Since the 1930s, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been creating timepieces able to display several time zones simultaneously. From dual-time watches to the Géographique and the remarkable Calibre 948 world timer, Jaeger-LeCoultre La Grande Maison makes time truly universal. For 2022, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a magnificent new artistic interpretation of the Universal Time, the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 in a limited edition of 20 pieces, embellished with great finesse by the artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares atelier.
When Jaeger-LeCoultre created the Calibre 948, it was the first time that a world-time complication had ever been united with a flying tourbillon. What’s more, the Universal Tourbillon makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours —the length of a mean solar day. A true expression of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s technical expertise, the automatic calibre was conceived, developed and entirely produced within the Manufacture. The splendid new aesthetic expression of the world-time complication showcases La Grande Maison’s artistic creativity and mastery of the decorative crafts alongside its technical prowess.
Featuring a generous 18K white gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter, in a subtle allusion to the depth and complexity of time measurement, the dial is made of several parts. At its center, in keeping with world-timer tradition, is a map of the world as seen from the North Pole. However, unlike the traditional flattened image, this map floats above the dial bed on a domed skeleton formed by the longitudes and latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere. Created by the master artisans of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares atelier, the outline of the continents is cut from a sheet of white gold and decorated with champlevé enamel.
Champlevé —which translates literally as ‘raised field’– is a noble and ancient enameling technique that was first practiced almost 2,500 years ago. With great skill, the artisan must first carve out a depression in the raw metal, conforming exactly to the outline of the desired image —in this case, the shapes of the continents seen from the North Pole. This hollow area is then filled with multiple layers of enamel —fired at very high temperatures after each layer— until it is flush with the original surface.
On the completed enamel surfaces, miniature-painted details of the continents’ major landscape features have been painstakingly added, enhancing the work with even greater intrigue and refinement. For the new Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, the enamelling of a single dome requires 55 hours of work. Measuring just 25.5 mm in diameter, each dial is a remarkable work of art in miniature, requiring almost 70 hours of meticulous work altogether.
Beneath the dome, representing the oceans, the dial bed is a disc of vivid blue translucent lacquer applied over a wavy guilloché pattern that suggests the movement of the sea and the lunar influence on its tides. In circular aperture to one side of the map, the flying tourbillon appears to float weightlessly above the blue oceans, spinning in 60 seconds.
The Master Grande Tradition white gold case is a perfect complement to the dial. Comprising more than 80 parts, its convex bezel contrasts with broad bevels on the lugs, and the hollowed-out lug sides add dynamic tension. Different surfaces are microblasted, polished and satin-brushed to maximize the play of light.
Powering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition worldtimer is the Calibre 948. This automatic movement visible via the display case back provides a power reserve of 48 hours.
The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is very simple to read: the hour marked on the ring adjacent to the city name is the time in that city’s zone. It is equally simple to operate: the time is set with the crown, which synchronizes all of the time zones around the world. On arrival at a new destination, local time is set by the same crown, which moves only the hour hand, in one-hour jumps forwards or backwards, allowing the minutes and seconds to continue running accurately.
Sticker Price $227,000 USD. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.