Since it was introduced in 1992, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has been defined by technical rigor and stylistic restraint, its constant evolution imbued with the Maison’s deep respect for tradition and constant quest for innovation. In 2020, La Grande Maison relaunches the collection, drawing inspiration from the classic round watches of the 1950s, such as the Futurematic, PowerMatic, and Memovox models, and adding a dash of 21st-century flair.
Highlights of the New Master Control Watches
When launched in 1992, the Master Control line was the first of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collections to benefit from its pioneering ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification – which inspired the collection’s name. A demanding process that tests the entire cased-up watch —not just its movement—, it set a new benchmark when introduced and has continually evolved in response to technological advances, to remain one of the watch industry’s most stringent testing protocols.
The versatility of the new collection is underlined by the 40 mm case diameter in a choice of two case materials —stainless steel and a new gold alloy referred to as Le Grand Rose gold— with the exception of the Master Control Date which is only available in stainless steel. Seen for the first time in the new Master Control line, the new pink gold alloy has a remarkable sheen and depth of color. The addition of palladium to the metal’s proprietary formula guards against oxidation and ensures that the radiant color will not fade over the years.
The straps, too, have been re-worked for the new collection. To complement the timeless informality of the steel cases, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have chosen the soft, matt finish of Novonappa calf leather in tan. Produced by the finest tannery in France, through a vegetable-based tanning process that retains the natural variations of the hides, Novonappa gains a distinctive patina over time. Thanks to a Presto Spring lug attachment and a simple clip for removing and refitting the deployant buckle, the Novonappa straps can be quickly changed, without the need for any tool.
With the goal of improving reliability, power reserve, and long-term performance, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have comprehensively revised and re-engineered Calibre 899, the high-performing pillar of the Master Control collection. The improvements, which have been incorporated into the entire range of Master Control calibres, include a silicon escapement, a redesigned barrel, and various energy-saving enhancements.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar
In the 1940s and 1950s Jaeger-LeCoultre was renowned for its triple calendar moon-phase movements, and the new Master Control Calendar brings that tradition into the 21st century. With a case measuring 40mm x 10.95mm, it is offered in either stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold. The finely balanced classical layout of the dial is retained, with the dates marked around the periphery, indicated by a red-tipped hand, the days and months displayed in the upper part of the dial, and the moon-phase set within the small seconds subdial in the lower part.
But there is a fresh new twist to the date display: as well as updating Calibre 866 with the same performance-enhancing improvements made to cal.899, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have added a delightful new jumping complication. Every month, the date hand makes a 90-degree leap from the 15th to the 16th, in order not to obscure the moon-phase display.
Sticker Price $11,000 USD for stainless steel, and $22,500 USD for Le Grand Rose gold. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specs
Master Control Calendar
References: Q4148420 (stainless steel), Q4142520 (Le Grand Rose gold)
Case: 40mm x 10.95mm in stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case back, and water-resistance to 50 meters.
Dial: silver sunray finish with applied indexes.
Movement: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 866 (new generation) with a 70-hour power reserve.
Functions: hours/minutes, small seconds, day, jumping date, month, moon phases.
Strap: Novonappa calf or alligator.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
The headline model of the new Master Control collection features a newly developed movement, Calibre 759, which combines a chronograph with a triple calendar display and a moon-phase. Brought together for the first time in a Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece, this alliance of complications evokes the ancient links between watchmaking and astronomy. The new Calibre 759 features a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, a moon-phase indicator, and a 65-hour power reserve.
With a balanced dial layout that combines the familiarity of two classical complications —a triple calendar and a bi-compax chronograph— Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have made the reading of the displays straightforward and intuitive, despite the complexity of the information shown.
The 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock is balanced by the running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock, while the day and month windows in the top part of the dial are balanced by the moon-phase and date indicator at 6 o’clock. The entire display is anchored by the central chronograph seconds hand and contained by the pulsometric scale marked around the dial flange.
Complementing the Chronograph Calendar’s timeless style, rectangular chronograph pushers add a purposeful, modern air to the well-proportioned 12.05mm thick case, which is offered in steel or Le Grand Rose gold.
Sticker Price $14,500 USD for stainless steel, and $26,000 USD for Le Grand Rose gold. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specs
Master Control Chronograph Calendar
References: Q4138420 (stainless steel), Q4132520 (Le Grand Rose gold)
Case: 40mm x 12.05 mm in stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case back, and water-resistance to 50 meters.
Dial: silver sunray finish with applied indexes.
Movement: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 759 with a 65-hour power reserve.
Functions: hours/minutes, small seconds, calendar with date, day and month indications, moon phases, chronograph.
Strap: Novonappa calf or alligator.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unique interpretation of the travel watch has been a feature of the Master Control collection since 1990, much appreciated by connoisseurs. Rather than indicating only the hour of a second time zone, the Geographic also has a 24-hour night/day indicator and, in an aperture at the bottom of the dial, displays the city name relating to the zone.
This gives travelers the option of setting the second time by location, rather than needing to calculate the time difference. The dial adheres to the familiar Geographic layout, with time-zone displays balanced by a date subdial and a power reserve indicator, and heat-blued steel hands adding a pop of color to enhance legibility.
But now, the entire dial is sunray-brushed, contained within a wide, convex flange on which the elongated triangular indexes are set. The profile of each index has been shaped to fit perfectly flush with the curve where the flange meets the dial —a challenge to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artisans but entirely in keeping with the Maison’s attention to detail.
The new-generation Calibre 939 increases the power reserve of the Master Control Geographic to 70 hours, while the case is available in a choice of steel or Le Grand Rose gold.
Sticker Price $12,200 USD for stainless steel, and $23,700 USD for Le Grand Rose gold. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specs
Master Control Geographic
References: Q4128420 (stainless steel), Q4122520 (Le Grand Rose gold)
Case: 40mm x 10.96mm in stainless steel or Le Grand Rose gold, satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case back, and water-resistance to 50 meters.
Dial: silver sunray finish with applied indexes.
Movement: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 939 (new generation) with a 70-hour power reserve.
Functions: hours/minutes/seconds, date, second time zone, 24-hour display, 24 time zones, power reserve indication.
Strap: Novonappa calf or alligator.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date
With its cool, silvery-white color palette, minimalistic design, and refined details, the Master Control Date anchors the new collection. Thanks to its slim movement, Calibre 899, the 40 mm steel case of the Master Control Date is just 8.78mm thick. A Jaeger-LeCoultre mainstay since its introduction fifteen years ago, Calibre 899 has been repeatedly updated to incorporate the latest performance-enhancing technology.
Revised again for the new Master Control collection, the latest-generation Calibre 899 features a new escapement and pallets: reconstructed in a slightly modified shape, they are made of silicon to minimize friction and thus consume less energy. In order to increase the power reserve to 70 hours, the barrel was redesigned to accommodate a stronger and longer mainspring without increasing the 3.3mm height of the movement.
The central-seconds wheel has been redesigned to eliminate shaking; the fixing screws of the oscillating wheel are made of highly resistant titanium, rather than steel; and new oils, specifically formulated for the new materials, have been used. In order to increase the power reserve to 70 hours, the barrel was redesigned to accommodate a stronger and longer mainspring without increasing the 3.3mm height of the movement.
Sticker Price $6,700 USD. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
Technical Specs
Master Control Date
Reference: Q4018420
Case: 40mm x 8.78 mm in stainless steel satin and polished finishes, sapphire crystal case back, and water-resistance to 50 meters.
Dial: silver sunray finish with applied indexes.
Movement: automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 899 (new generation) with a 70-hour power reserve.
Strap: Novonappa calf.
