At Watches & Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented a redesigned Duometre collection with three new models with four spectacular watches that include the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, and the Duometre Chronograph Moon in two variations including a platinum case with a copper-colored dial, and a pink gold case with a silver opaline dial. Both models are enhanced by a hand-stitched alligator strap with small-scale alligator lining.
In 2007 Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the ground-breaking Duometre mechanism in the form of a chronograph. Powered by the new Calibre 391, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon presents an intriguing contrast between the lightning-fast operation of the chronograph and the slow rhythm of the moon as it passes through its cycle in 29.53 days, complemented by a Night and Day display.
The dial is both elegant and intuitive to read, featuring the distinctive three-counter layout and long, thin hands that make the Duometre so recognizable. Echoing the aesthetic of traditional sector dials, the main dial surface and the center of each sub-dial has the fine, almost powdery texture achieved by the opaline finish; in contrast, the broad ring encircling each sub-dial is decorated with azuré —ultra- fine engraving in perfectly regular, concentric circles. Adding to the visual appeal, the sub-dials are slightly sunken below the main surface, while the edge of the dial is subtly curved, closely following the contours of the glass box crystal.
Enhancing the symmetry of the layout, the moon phase display is integrated into the chronograph hours and minutes sub-dial, which is set at 3 o’clock. Its blue background is visually balanced by that of the Night and Day display, which is integrated into the time sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Elapsed time is displayed up to 12 hours, 60 minutes, and 60 seconds, accurate to 1/6th of a second, and a tachymeter scale marked around the periphery of the dial enables the wearer to measure speed based on the time taken to travel a fixed distance, or to calculate distance based on speed. When the chronograph mechanism is activated, the foudroyant hand begins its whirling dance, making a complete rotation in one second, during which it beats six times —stopping instantaneously when the chronograph timer is stopped and thus providing a reading accurate to 1/6th of a second.
On the dial side of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon, two open-worked sections offer intriguing glimpses of the mechanism, hinting at the mechanical beauty of the calibre 391. The seconde foudroyante is displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, flanked by the two open-worked areas that reveal parts of the mechanism. The two power reserves —50 hours for each barrel and gear train— are displayed on an arc-shaped bridge on each side of the sub-dial. Both barrels are wound by a single crown. Rotating the crown clockwise —forward— winds the barrel which provides power for the timekeeping function and rotating the crown counterclockwise —backward— winds the second barrel, which provides power for the complications.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon comes with an entirely redesigned case for the collection. A contemporary interpretation of the savonette pocket watches created by the Maison in the 19th-century. The French word savonette means a small disc of soap with rounded contours that can be cradled in the palm of a hand. With its convex crystal and gracefully rounded bezel, the new Duometre case expresses this literal definition very well. The crown, too, has been redesigned, with deep and rounded notches that make it a joy to handle. Indeed, the highly polished edges of the lugs are the only sharp lines to be found.
A comfortable 42.5 mm in diameter, the case is a complex structure of 34 separate parts and the lugs are screwed rather than integrated to enable the use of multiple finishing techniques. A mixture of polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces creates a fascinating play of light with every movement of the wrist.
The Movement
Turning the watch over reveals the beauty of the calibre 391. To develop this calibre, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers started from the ground up to develop a fully integrated movement that combines a manually wound mono-pusher chronograph with moon phase and night-day complications, as well as two power reserve indicators and a seconde foudroyante —flying second— display. Fully revealed beneath the transparent crystal case-back, much of the movement is open-worked and an array of bridges seems almost to be floating above the levers and wheels, drawing the eye deep into the mechanism. Creating visual unity across the entire expanse of the movement, the bridges are decorated with sunrayed Geneva stripes. It’s a challenging technique that demands absolute precision because the components must be decorated one-by-one, and yet radiate from the center of the regulating organ to the edge of the calibre in perfect alignment once the movement is assembled.
The calibre 391 is exquisitely finished with traditional Haute Horlogerie finishes. Crisply bevelled and polished angles define the edges of the bridges; brushed surfaces contrast with polished metal; perlage on the main plate reflects light up through the mechanism; and blue screws provide a pleasing contrast to the silvery tones of the metal.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, thanks to its entirely new case, the Duometre Chronograph Moon wears extremely well and is true to its size. A big improvement from the previous Duometre models making the watches easier to wear and somewhat less bulky. Combining beauty with technical sophistication, and a deep respect for the traditions of Haute Horlogerie with constant innovation is what Jaeger-LeCoultre is known for. Kudos on the release of these spectacular pieces.
Sticker Price USD 70,000 for 18K pink gold and USD 86,000 for platinum. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.
