In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates a mystical number represented by the letter φ (Phi) and recognized as a universal signifier of beauty. Known today as the Golden Ratio, it is a common denominator for beauty and harmony shared by the natural world and man-made masterpieces —a proportion that humans instinctively find to be the most aesthetically pleasing.
Simplified as 1.618, the Golden Ratio —also called the Golden Mean, Golden Section, Golden Number or Divine Proportion— represents the unique relationship within an object, where the ratio of a larger part to a smaller part is the same as the ratio of the larger part to the whole. This intriguing mathematical relationship also translates into so-called golden spirals and rectangles. A golden rectangle is one in which, if a square is cut from it, with sides the same length as the rectangle’s shorter side, the remaining rectangle has the same proportion as the original rectangle.
In watchmaking, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso expresses this principle with utmost eloquence. Created in 1931 at the height of the Art Deco artistic movement, which emphasised geometric patterns, rectilinear shapes and clean lines, the original design of Reverso was governed by the Golden Ratio. While many variations of the Reverso case have been presented over the nine decades since then, the original proportions have remained as an anchor for the collection and the Golden Ratio continues to define the Reverso’s design today.
In 1931, the same year that the Reverso was designed, Matila Ghyka, a Romanian prince, philosopher and mathematician, published The Golden Number —a sequel to his Aesthetics of Proportions in Nature and in the Arts of 1927. These works summed up the many ways that Phi can be found not only in familiar organic forms, such as the spirals of shells, the arrangement of flower petals and the structure of pine cones, but also on the infinitely greater scale of the shape of galaxies and the whirling eye of hurricanes. The Golden Number also identified the presence of Phi in the most beautiful creations of humanity, explaining how its secrets were sought for their value in architecture, art and music, and tracing how its mysteries have been transmitted in an unbroken line from the Pythagorean mathematics of Ancient Greece to the present day. In this way, Ghyka provided a portal to a deeper understanding of the spiritual nature of beauty and the hidden harmonies that connect the whole of creation.
For the watchmakers of Jaeger-LeCoultre, surrounded by the fields, mountains and ancient forests of the Vallée de Joux, this unassailable connection between the aesthetic language of nature and man’s capacity to create beautiful objects is particularly meaningful.
Even earlier, in the 6th century BC, the philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras examined the mystical properties of geometry, and the sculptor Phidias is said to have applied the Golden Ratio to the ornaments he made for the Parthenon, around 430 BC. During the 12th century, Leonardo Pisano, better known as Fibonacci, set out the recurrence algorithm or number sequence that bears his name (0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89…). Each number is obtained by the sum of the two previous ones and thus, when we divide each number by the previous number, we obtain a value close to Phi. Remarkably, it is this sequence that defines the golden spirals found in nature.
At Watches and Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces three new models to the Reverso Tribute collection —the standard-bearer for the Golden Ratio that governed the proportions of the Reverso designs of the early 1930s.
The Reverso Tribute Chronograph honors the ground-breaking Reverso Chronograph of 1996, reinventing it with the new Calibre 860 which, in addition to revealing the beautifully crafted chronograph mechanism on the reverse side, displays the time indication on both the front and reverse.
The Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon presents the complication in an entirely new guise —as a flying tourbillon set within an ultra-thin Duoface movement, displaying a second time zone on the reverse dial.
Four new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds models introduce new dials to the collection, in color variations from classical silver to rich burgundy and black. Being a Monoface Reverso, the case flips over to reveal the classical closed case-back, which offers an ideal canvas for personalised engravings and other decoration.
In addition, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents an artistic expression of the Reverso Calibre 179 in a redesigned case. With an array of finely crafted decorative details, including skeletonisation and lacquer work, amplifying the technical tour-de-force and impressive visual effect of the Gyrotourbillon, the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is a noble expression of the 180 watchmaking skills housed under one roof within the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.
For women, Jaeger-LeCoultre further highlights the artistic crafts housed within its Métiers Rares atelier, as two new interpretations of the Reverso demonstrate the Maison’s boundless inventiveness and creativity.
The Reverso One Precious Colors is offered in two eye-catching color variations: its entire case is adorned with a geometric Art Deco pattern of enamel and diamonds, in a visually arresting and boldly original execution of the art of grand feu enamel. Presenting a fresh and elegant way for the 21st-century woman to wear the Reverso, the Reverso Secret Necklace is a magnificent jewel that demonstrates, once again, the Reverso’s ability to constantly reinvent itself while faithfully respecting the original design codes. In a case entirely set with diamonds and onyx in an Art Deco pattern, the watch is suspended from a sinuous supple chain necklace of pink gold links and onyx beads.
Additionally, Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting a spectacular new booth and a deeper, multi-sensory experience for Watches and Wonders 2023, taking inspiration from the agora of Ancient Greece. This booth represents the transmission of knowledge and is designed to encourage relaxed conversation as visitors discover the timepieces and the 2023 theme.
Viewed from above, elements of the floor plan conform to the proportions of golden rectangles and golden spirals, while at the heart of the space, a spectacular full-height water feature represents the monument that stood at the center of each ancient agora.
Symbolizing the source of creativity, the water acts as a ‘screen’ on which an enthralling digital show is projected, intensifying the sense of movement with light, images and sound, to tell the story of man’s quest to define the universal laws of beauty. In four chapters, the show traces the path from mankind’s observation of nature to our wonder at the essence of beauty and the first sparks of creative inspiration.
Lastly, visitors to the salon can more deeply experience the 2023 theme through the Atelier d’Antoine, which will offer the opportunity to explore the theme through hands-on Discovery Workshops focusing on the Reverso, evoking the Golden Ratio as a key design element. The cultural universe of the Reverso will be further expanded by the presence of craftsmen from Casa Fagliano, the celebrated Argentinian bootmaker, who will demonstrate their exceptional artistry with leather. Since 2011, Casa Fagliano has collaborated with Jaeger-LeCoultre to make straps for the Reverso Tribute line. In addition, the 1931 Café makes its Watches and Wonders debut with a new selection of pastries composed by artist pâtissier Nina Métayer that capture the essence of the Golden Ratio and the Vallée de Joux through flavor, texture and form.
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