Four hands in the center, a big date, and a power reserve indicator, all displayed on the extraordinary new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon. This is a supremely pared-down model, devoid of boring sub-dials, indexes, or logos. Simple in appearance yet utterly ingenious, it focuses exclusively on the essentials. Exploiting the interplay of contrasts, it disrupts the vintage spirit of the Smoked Salmon colour by contrasting it with a boldly modernist minimalism to achieve the perfect balance. This special edition watch will be available for 12 months only during this leap year 2024.
In 2005, H. Moser & Cie. marked its return to Haute Horlogerie by revolutionizing the perpetual calendar with the Perpetual 1. For Watches & Wonders Geneva, the Manufacture is revisiting this famous instantaneous date-change movement in a version featuring four hands in the centre, including a direct seconds hand, and associating it with its Streamliner collection.
A fusion of two icons, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon is equipped with the HMC 812 manual wound movement. Visible via the sapphire case-back, the manual wound calibre HMC 812 calibre features an ultra-contemporary finish with the traditional Moser double horizontal stripes and an anthracite grey PVD coating on the balance bridges, train wheels, barrel and escapement plate. The main plate is microblasted and features anthracite rhodium plating. The movement includes a leap year indicator on the movement side.
A masterpiece of simplicity and ingenuity, this calibre indicates the months utilizing a small central hand in red and white. While the months are usually represented by the indexes, this Concept version has neither indexes nor a logo, allowing the full beauty of the Smoked Salmon dial to shine through. This color, a classic in Haute Horology, adds an exquisitely vintage touch to this model. The vibrant dial creates an unending play of light, ranging from black to an arresting mirror effect, and changing with the movements of the wrist, from chocolate to gold, in a wide spectrum of shades. Featuring a griffé finish found only on special editions, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon will be available for 12 months only. To display the hours and minutes, the three-dimensional hands made from two sections feature inserts with Globolight, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon has a guaranteed impressive power reserve of 168 hours —7 days—, displayed at 10 o'clock on the dial via an indicator. At 4 o'clock, a window indicates the date, in large format, thanks to two superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31. Aligned with the crown, the date window is positioned at an unusual angle which requires the numerals to be tilted at a 26-degree angle. The date changes in a flash at midnight thanks to the "Flash Calendar" instantaneous date change mechanism, and it can be adjusted forwards or backward at any time of day. In constant pursuit of minimalism, the leap year indicator is located on the movement side.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has perfectly rounded curves, evoking the very first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties whose name it adopts. This shaped watch is equipped with a steel cushion case measuring 42.3 mm in diameter and equipped with a screw-down crown to guarantee a water resistance of 120 meters.
Designed as a truly sculptural piece, this case boasts harmonious proportions and beautiful aerodynamics. It is topped by a subtly domed Glassbox-type sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case-back. These curves extend to the integrated steel bracelet, which is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist; the unique design of the links ensures that it sits perfectly on even the most slender of wrists. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. The bezel has a sunray brushed finish; the case has alternating brushed and polished surfaces, with hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides, in a nod to the traditional unusual shapes typical of Moser cases.
Sticker Price USD 54,900. For more info on H. Moser & Cie. click here.
