Today November 8, 2024, at the Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 Auction by Phillips Watches in Geneva, Switzerland an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoire d’Egalité sold for CHF 7,320,000 Swiss Francs —approximately USD 8.3 million— setting a new world record for any F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction.
No other model has defined the life of a watchmaker in such a manner. It is the model that launched François-Paul Journe’s career as a watch brand with its launch in 1999 as a 20-piece souscription set, but before becoming one of the most influential —and award-winning— watchmakers of his era and paving the way to the intense appeal of independent horology, Journe was one of the most gifted watchmakers of his generation making one-off creations for a savvy clientele.
The present Tourbillon engraved 15/93 on the dial is the foundation of what Journe was to become, it is the second wristwatch Journe ever made and the first he ever sold. In 1991 Journe —who up until then had only created complex pocket watches and clocks— decided to create a tourbillon wristwatch but improving on Abraham Louis Breguet’s invention with the addition of a remontoire system —a constant force device— used to provide an equal amount of energy regardless of the winding level of the mainspring, resulting in greater accuracy. It was the first time that these innovations had been combined and integrated into a wristwatch.
The first prototype was worn by Journe and remains within his private collection. He made 2 other identical examples in 1993, the present watch and later another engraved 16/93. Journe’s original tourbillon wristwatch set the blueprint for what his future watches would look like with a 38 mm case, gold dials, and off-center indications.
All inscriptions on the dial have been meticulously hand-engraved and inked. However, the dial is not the only handmade element but the whole watch was handmade by Journe himself adding to the exclusivity of the watch. As a matter of fact, only 3 wristwatches were ever fully handmade by Journe himself raising the collectability and desirability of the present timepiece to stratospheric levels.
The dial is engraved 15/93 meaning it is the 15th timepiece ever made by Journe and made in 1993. In Journe's own words:
"This first tourbillon wristwatch paid hommage to 5 watchmakers: Breguet as inventor of the tourbillon, Guinand for the shape of the tourbillon cage, Bürgi for the remontoire system, Berthoud for the overall aesthetics and myself as it represents decades of experience and learning."
The present example is not only immediately identifiable as a Journe but it features some very unique elements such as movement made in gold —something that Journe started doing for his regular production until 2004—, the dial has a more raw steampunk vibe to it due to the visible elements such as the cone-and-feeler power reserve indication at 11 o’clock, Breguet hands, strap held with screws, as well as a solid case back. The importance of this watch is further highlighted by the fact that it is proudly featured on the cover of the book: Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz, dedicated to Journe’s oeuvre.
This incredibly historic piece has been with the same family since 1993 who have proudly kept all the technical drawings, articles, original invoice —stating a price of CHF 69,000 Swiss Francs back then—, and even the sheet of metal from which the tourbillon cage was cut out.
Legend has it that in 1994 when at a restaurant the receptionist noticed the tourbillon Journe was wearing and exclaimed “What a beautiful watch”, and this pushed Journe to launch a series production 5 years later in 1999 and the rest, as they say, is history. A history that changed watchmaking as we know it. Lastly, the present Tourbillon 15/93 was serviced in August 2024 by François-Paul Journe himself.
More info on F.P. Journe here and for Phillips Watches here.
