Thomas Fleming, the founder and CEO of Fleming, is excited to introduce the Series 1 Launch Edition —Fleming’s inaugural release and the culmination of more than three years of development. This individually numbered 38.5 mm time-only watch is available in 18K Rose Gold with carbon grey hand guilloché and light champagne hand hammering dial limited to 7 pieces; in Platinum with southwestern brown and amber hand guilloché dial limited to 9 pieces; and in Tantalum with frosted platinum dial with dark blue aventurine center in a 25-piece limited edition.
This launch represents the culmination of more than three years of development and the involvement of an unparalleled cast of Swiss partners including renowned independent watchmaker Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode, and the skilled artisans at Comblémine, owned by master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Photo: Jean-François Mojon at Chronode
The focus was on creating a distinctive, cohesive, and visually appealing design for the case and lugs without straying from basic geometry. Attention was given to the often-overlooked relationship between lugs and the midcase, ensuring a design that captivates from various angles. The midcase comprises three parts: brushed top and bottom surfaces, a polished case band, and a unique skeletonized opening in the lugs. The lugs, resembling “horned” lugs, reveal their skeletonization and hidden facets on closer examination, adding subtle depth and unique interaction with light.
The dial and hand design aimed for cohesion with the case, adaptability to different colors, versatility in various settings, and a blend of uniqueness with classic elements. The hands and markers echo the shape of the lugs, promoting a unified aesthetic. The platinum variant showcases hand-turned guilloché, while the rose gold variant features a hand-hammered inner dial and seconds subdial as well as a hand-guillochéd outer ring. Frosted platinum and deep blue aventurine dials rely on material properties for visual interest, embracing a more minimalistic texture.
Extensive testing led to selecting a strap thickness and taper that balanced comfort, stability, and aesthetics. The decision for a pin buckle, inspired by the lugs, was made to maintain visibility of the movement and enhance balance and comfort for these 38.5 mm moderately sized watches with a thickness of 9 mm. The buckle design mirrors the shape and skeletonization of the lugs, completing the cohesive and thoughtful design approach.
The Movement
The manual wound Calibre FM-01 is a specially finished and decorated ad-hoc stock Chronode calibre C101 with semi-skeletonized bridges, frosted bridges, and hand-polished chamfers that contribute to a dynamic visual appeal. This is not a new movement developed to power this new line of watches.
The ratchet wheels are black-polished and skeletonized with the brand’s logo, providing a view of the state of wind that synchronizes with the movement’s power reserve indicator. Black-polished balance bridge and ratchet wheels create varying reflections, offering a dynamic look that changes constantly with ambient light.
This 29-jewel manual movement features a power reserve indicator on the movement side and provides an outstanding power reserve of 7 days —168 hours— when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 21,600 vph.
The Brand Ambassador and Stakeholder
The Series 1 Launch Edition is just one of the three entirely distinct approaches to watchmaking that Fleming intends to explore shortly, with more to come in the years ahead. Thomas has been working on the Series 2 — an integrated bracelet sports watch— nearly in parallel with the design of the Series 1 Launch Edition.
Since the beginning of 2023, Fleming has been collaborating with three-time Norwegian Grand Slam finalist —and avid watch enthusiast— Casper Ruud on a lightweight, shock-resistant watch that will be entirely novel in design and concept. Casper, then the world number 2, decided to join Fleming before a complete prototype of a single watch even existed because he felt so strongly about the vision of the brand and the people behind it. Casper not only entered a long-term partnership with Fleming but also took a stake in the brand. Casper Ruud wore a Fleming prototype at Roland-Garros this year.
As an existing watch collector himself and a Fleming stakeholder, he attests to the beauty and versatility of the Series 1 Launch Edition. He is also extremely enthusiastic about the lightweight Series 1 Ghost he is developing with Fleming, which maintains the off-court elegance of the Series 1 Launch Edition —with some aesthetic twists— while also managing to be no heavier or more obtrusive than a sweatband.
Photo: Norwegian Tennis Player Casper Ruud
Meanwhile, Fleming, an avid tennis fan with Norwegian heritage on his mother’s side, says he is delighted to welcome Casper to the team as a brand ambassador after a tentative email inquiry to establish interest was met with his entire family’s approval:
“I’ve been wanting to make a lightweight watch from the beginning, and I thought a good way to test, validate, and market it would be through an athlete ambassador. At the same time, I think it’s cool and something that we’d want to wear ourselves.”
For those captivated by Series 1, Fleming also invites registrations of interest for the Series 1 Ghost, a lighter, more shock-resistant model, and previews Series 2, designed in collaboration with the renowned watch designer Emmanuel Gueit.
Pricing & Delivery of Watches
The brand anticipates to produce around 5 to 10 pieces per month, with the first deliveries currently slated for April 2024. The allocation process grants committed buyers 14 days to secure their piece with a 25% deposit, with the remaining balance due pre-delivery. All the Series 1 Launch Edition watches will come with 1 year of complimentary insurance courtesy of Fleming that protects from theft and damage.
Fleming partnered with an insurance company to obtain the coverage, which is automatically activated at the time of sale with no enrollment or approval procedures required, as would be the case with traditional insurance coverage. This will provide Series 1 Launch Edition owners additional peace of mind when wearing and enjoying their watches and is a result of Fleming’s goal of improving the ownership experience wherever possible.
Sticker Price CHF 45,500 —approximately USD 52,000— for Tantalum; CHF 48,500 —approximately USD 55,000— for 18K Rose Gold; and CHF 51,500 —approximately USD 59,000— for Platinum. For more info on Fleming watches click here.
