In a first for the manufacture, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has applied an all-black DLC treatment to the fine sand-blasted 44 mm steel case. Has fitted the crown with a ceramic insert, used titanium screws to fasten the case, and equipped the watch with a rubber strap. This is the sportiest watch ever presented by Ferdinand Berthoud thus far. The vertical satin-finished black dial on the Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 exudes a sporty feel at first sight. Its movement boasts angled sapphire half-bridges, echoing the modernity of its housing. Among the output of Fine Watchmaking manufactures, creations in steel are often the most sought-after, being much rarer than their gold and platinum counterparts. The new Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 is all the more remarkable in that it is the first all-black creation by Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. This unique piece has been exclusively designed for the ART IN TIME watch gallery in Monaco, with part of the proceeds from its sale passed on to charity.
The FB 1.6-3 explores this modern ethos —and pushes back its boundaries. It’s both sporty and daring, with the case, bezel, flange, dial, crown, and strap clad entirely in black. It’s also the first-ever stainless steel case in the FB 1 collection, making this model very much one of a kind.
The dial features a vertical satin-finish that benefits from a semi-matte black galvanized treatment. The even-numbered hours, seconds hand, and power reserve are colored red, standing out eloquently. The combination of dark black and bright red contributes to the sports feel of the piece, as well as making its indications effortless to read. To complete the nod to ART IN TIME’s Monaco identity, the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1.6-3 features a white seconds scale and minute circle, thus echoing the House of Grimaldi’s two heraldic colors, red and white. In line with ART IN TIME’s tradition of unique pieces, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will be passed on to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, dedicated to building a sustainable future.
Front and back, the timepiece exemplifies the manufacture’s demanding standards in finishing. The hour and minute counter is finely sand-blasted and treated with matte BlackOr; hour markers have been coated with superluminova. The hours and minutes hands and power reserve indicator are in gold, while the seconds’ hand is made of polished bronze.
All that aside, the main feature is not immediately apparent. The FB 1.6-3 uses sapphire for the flange on the dial side, and on the movement for the half-bridges. The latter are finely angled, engraved, and coloured red, enclosing the tourbillon carriage and its central seconds hand. Equipped with a fusee-and-chain transmission —the oldest and most complex solution for providing an escapement with constant force —the FB 1.6-3 guarantees Chronometer certified accuracy.
The manufacture movement can be admired through one of the side portholes in the octagonal case that has now become the style signature of this Ferdinand Berthoud collection. The case houses the FB-T.FC-2 calibre, the construction of which is unique in contemporary watchmaking. With 15 bridges and 3 half-bridges connected by vertical pillars, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has designed a movement that brings to mind eighteenth-century marine chronometers, with barrel and fusee suspended, as is the cone —on which a feeler rises and falls, indicating the power reserve.
“Each of our creations has its own identity. This one is no exception, communicating a decidedly sporty feel,” concludes Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “Over the past few years, the FB 1 collection has demonstrated its capacity to embody a range of different styles. There can be no doubt that this unique watch marks a major milestone in our history —and a significant step towards the ultimate customization possibilities opened up by the collection.”
In line with ART IN TIME’s tradition of unique pieces, part of the proceeds from the sale of the watch will be passed on to the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation. For the best part of 15 years now, through his Foundation, HSH Prince Albert ll of Monaco has been actively involved in protecting the environment and promoting sustainable development to counter threats to the planet. Committed to research, technological innovation, and tackling major social challenges, the Foundation funds projects in the Mediterranean basin, the polar regions, and the world’s least socially and economically developed countries. Its goals are to mitigate the effects of climate change, promote renewable energy, preserve biodiversity, manage water resources, and fight against desertification.
Sticker Price €212,000 Euro —approximately $250,000 USD. For more info on Ferdinand Berthoud click here.