To make it, even more interesting if that was even possible, Breguet adorns the dial of its Extra-Thin Automatic Tourbillon ref. 5367 with a touch of deep blue cased in a platinum case measuring 41 mm in diameter —just like its predecessors. This blue dial in a traditional grand feu enamel technique is an ode to the limited number of artisans still capable of mastering this age-old process, which was dear to Abraham-Louis Breguet, as he appreciated the spotless aspect it conferred on watches. Not surprising, given that he had revolutionized watchmaking aesthetics by ridding watches of heavy and superfluous decoration. Today, Breguet keeps this art alive with a workshop entirely dedicated to enameling.
Beyond providing decoration to the dial, enamel work is a particularly specialized craft, one requiring rigor, patience, and technical mastery. After going through stages of grinding and cleaning, the enamel is applied with a brush to the gold dial while still wet, in a thin and consistent layer. It is then heated in a furnace at a temperature higher than 800°C. The final result is obtained by adding several layers of enamel until the desired color is reached. For the new timepiece, the hue is a blend of a number of blue nuances. The final step consists of gentle polishing before the dial is placed in the furnace one last time and this step provides it with its natural sheen. The dial’s gold elements are then beveled in a workshop dedicated to this revered craft. Then the different indicators are applied on the dial. In keeping with the very distinctive method, artisans provide a striking depth effect within the dial itself to the Breguet numerals, the hours’ chapter and seconds chapter, and the logo.
The range of blues also emphasizes the powdered silver indicators. Another subtle detail can be found above the tourbillon carriage: the famous secret signature. Introduced in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, it is a guarantee of authenticity that helped in the fight against counterfeits, which were already a problem at the time. Breguet places the signature on the majority of its models these days for decorative purposes, as an homage to its founder.
Under the dial, lies the beating heart of the watch, with its minimalist design —Calibre 581, which distinguishes itself through its finesse and technical performance. Breguet’s thinnest tourbillon movement showcased within this timepiece is no thicker than 3 millimeters, with the total case thickness measuring 7.45 millimeters. Placed between 4 and 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is housed in a titanium carriage that features a made-to-measure escapement and a silicon Breguet balance spring that oscillates at a frequency of four hertz, which is particularly high for a tourbillon balance spring. The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 boasts an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its high-energy barrel, a concept patented by Breguet. The movement is fully visible via the display case back with its peripheral oscillating weight in platinum.
Available exclusively at Breguet boutiques around the world, this new release in platinum features a blue alligator leather strap.
Sticker Price $161,800 USD. For more info on Breguet click here.
