To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet draws inspiration from the legendary Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch in platinum that was presented in 1992 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak. The aforementioned pocket watch reference 25729PT was presented in platinum with a case size of 47 mm, a skeletonized dial, and powered by the ultra-thin manual wound calibre 5020, which in the case of this pocket watch, was fully skeletonized and hand engraved.
Audemars Piguet built the caliber 5020 for this pocket watch upon the 16-ligne manual wound open face—Lépine—pocket watch movement calibre 151 supplied by Frédéric Piguet. The calendar module, meanwhile, is derived from a kit by Dubois Dépraz. Both manufacturers have been long-standing partners and suppliers of Audemars Piguet.
This legendary pocket watch was released at the time in platinum and in 18K rose gold in a limited edition of only 20 pieces each. This legendary Royal Oak design was adapted into a pocket watch with the introduction of the Royal Oak Pocket Watch Ref. 5691, produced between 1979 and 1980.
Photo Above: Audemars Piguet Musée Atelier
These pocket watches are highly exclusive collectibles, seldom surfacing on the secondary market or at auctions. The pocket watch from 1992 was accompanied by a fob chain also in platinum.
Photo Above: Ineichen Auctioneers
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 150th Anniversary reference 26585XT.OO.1220XT.01 is presented in a limited edition of 150 pieces in titanium with BMG—Bulk Metallic Glass— with a 41 mm case diameter and a thickness of 9.9 mm. Bridging past and present, this vintage-inspired timepiece offers a final tribute to the automatic Audemars Piguet calibre 5135. The watch is equipped with a Royal Oak bracelet also in titanium with BMG—Bulk Metallic Glass—center links.
The 41mm case pairs a BMG bezel and case back frame with a titanium case middle and screw-locked crown, ensuring water resistance up to 20 meters.
The calibre 5135 is the open-worked version of calibre 5134 powering all the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars released since 2015. The automatic calibre 5134 is based on its predecessor the calibre 2120 and is composed of 374 parts and 38 jewels, providing a power reserve of 40 hours while oscillating at a frequency of 19,800 vph. The specs for calibre 5135 are the same as for the calibre 5134.
Is surprising that Audemars Piguet didn’t equip this celebratory watch with the just presented automatic calibre 7138 which is now AP’s in-house perpetual calendar movement where all adjustments can be done via the crown without the use of any caseband correctors. Also, in our opinion this watch should’ve been released in platinum rather than titanium.
Limited to just 150 pieces, it features exclusive anniversary design codes—including a cursive font for Audemars Piguet on the dial by the moon phase indication— while blending titanium with Bulk Metallic Glass—BMG—in the case and bracelet.
A great-looking watch that hopefully will help the brand get back to its roots and origins.
Sticker Price CHF 150,000 Swiss Francs—approx USD 168,000. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
