Insider: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731. World's Thinnest Manual Winding Minute Repeater and World's Thinnest Minute Repeater Movement.

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It was in the 18th century that the first minute repeater watch was devised to provide an audible indication of the time in the dark, in an era before the advent of electric lighting. While this complication is no longer an imperious necessity, it continues to represent the pinnacle of the art of watchmaking. That is because each miniature repeater watch is unique and bears the unique signature of the master craftsman who made it. On demand, the minute repeater sounds the hours, quarter-hours and minutes. After activating the repeater slide, a hammer strikes the low-pitched gong to mark the hours, while the quarters are played by two hammers on the two gongs —one low-pitched and the other high-pitched— and the minutes are sounded on the high-pitched gong.

In 1941, Vacheron Constantin launched its first wristwatch equipped with a single complication in the shape of a minute repeater housed within an ultra-thin movement: Calibre 4261. The quest for extreme slenderness continued over the years, and in 1992, the Manufacture once again transcended the realms of possibility by presenting Calibre 1755, a minute repeater measuring just 3.28 mm thick —truly unprecedented. Today, Vacheron Constantin celebrates this emotionally charged complication with an all-new calibre inspired by its illustrious predecessors: the 1731, thus named in tribute to the birth of the brand founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron.

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It was in 2009 that Vacheron Constantin decided to create a new minute repeater combining slenderness, a pure sound, aesthetic beauty, reliability and sturdiness. Four years proved necessary to solve this complex equation. While the new Calibre 1731 is barely thicker than its predecessor from 1993 —3.90 compared with 3.28 mm— due to its impressive 65-hour power reserve, it is nonetheless the thinnest on the market today, having successfully overcome the difficulty of assembling and adjusting parts that have been slimmed down to extremes. Nor are the technical feats confined to the ultra-thin side of its nature, since Calibre 1731 is equipped with a highly ingenious device developed by Vacheron Constantin in 2007 for the 2755 movement —another member of this exclusive family of minute repeater calibres: a flying strike governor.

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Contrary to classic lever-type governors, this one is completely silent. Its role is to steady the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs. Without a regulator or governor, this musical sequence would take place at the speed of the striking barrel-spring, and would merely produce a rush of indiscernible notes. The device developed by Vacheron Constantin comprises two inertia-blocks or weights designed to act as a brake on the rotating shaft of the governor and thus evening out the energy supplied by the barrel spring. To achieve this, it makes use of two opposing centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, the centrifugal force pivots one end of the weights outwards so that the other end presses on the shaft so as to stabilize the rotation speed and thus ensure a steady cadence. Perfectly finished right down to the smallest details, the governor bears Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese Cross emblem, even though the latter cannot be seen from the front of the calibre.

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Particular care was devoted to the acoustics of the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731, since its sound is the very reason for being of a striking watch. Various technical choices were made to ensure a crystal-clear and entirely tuneful tone. The gongs are not only connected to the case middle to as to amplify the sound, but also for the first time stacked rather than placed side by side. The case is made to be as one with the movement, within a clever composition incorporating such subtle parameters as the airflow between the mechanism and the case, designed to achieve optimal propagation of the sound. The quest for perfection does not end there, since the case itself has been built without joints so that the elements can interact literally metal against metal and thus enhance the amplitude of the sound, while the flying governor ensures a steady rate of the hammer blows on the gongs.

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While each master-watchmaker instils his own music into the minute repeater that he will take several months to assemble and fine-tune, the sound of the movement will be subjected to the keen ear of the virtuoso striking mechanism specialists within the Manufacture, and will undergo certain adjustments in order to achieve perfect harmony between low-pitched and high-pitched notes. And it is at precisely at 4:49 that the tests are performed, since that is the time when the cadence is the most clearly audible due to the almost identical intervals between the hours —4 strikes—, quarters —3 strikes— and minutes —4 strikes. The true soul of a repeater watch, the individual chime of each watch is recorded and carefully stored before it leaves the Manufacture, thus constituting a “soundprint” duly registered in the Vacheron Constantin archives. This procedure guarantees not only the lifelong repair of all its timepieces, both historical and contemporary, but also the ability to restore within its workshops the unique sound of each model equipped with a minute repeater.

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For a master-watchmaker, taking part in creating striking watches is a supreme honour. An art that requires gifted hands, lengthy experience combined with infinite patience, as well as a truly musical ear. Watchmakers capable of mastering striking mechanisms thus belong to an extremely elite circle. At Vacheron Constantin, only the master craftsmen working in the “Grandes Complication” workshop create such marvels. To enter this inner sanctum, they must have acquired at least 15 years’ experience in the various other workshops, before working for two years under the mentorship of a master. While the minute repeater is probably the most fascinating of all complications, it is also the most demanding due to the large number of tiny parts that must be patiently assembled and made to interact, before repeatedly setting and adjusting them to the point of achieving perfectly smooth running and an absolutely pure sound. A single watch takes from three to six months to assemble and adjust. Concentration is a must at all times, since one small extra stroke of the file on the base of the gong could muffle its tone.

Testifying to a degree of time-honored know-how that sets an authentic Fine Watchmaking creation apart from the rest, the components of Calibre 1731 are patiently finished one by one, even though some will remain hidden. Whereas the mainplate is circular-grained, the hammers are specular polished so as to alternately catch the light or appear clothed in a deep black cloak so as to eliminate any trace of the finely worked surface. Meanwhile the bridges are enlivened with a delicate Côtes de Genève pattern to create a refined wave effect. While the artisans of the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin are well accustomed to the various finishing techniques, there is one that requires a highly demanding 18-month training period: bevelling or chamfering, meaning the specific work on the interior angles, such as can notably be found on the seven bridges of Calibre 1731.

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To work on such a complex mechanism with 265 components and 36 jewels, the master-watchmaker has over 1,200 tools, many of which he has made himself and some of which have been created to perform just one gesture. They form an impressive panoply, even through a master’s supreme instrument remains his own ear. For it is in placing his own personal ‘signature’ on the model during the sound-adjustment phase that he breathes life into the minute repeater.

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The epitome of classicism conveyed through absolute purity, the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 ref. 30110/000R-9793 conceals remarkable complexity beneath its apparent simplicity. Its design is inspired by an ultra-thin model created in 1955 to mark the Vacheron Constantin bicentenary and then revived in 2004 to give life to the Patrimony Contemporaine, reference 81180. Since then, its extreme slenderness, its 18K 5N pink gold pebble shape case measuring 41 mm in diameter, its curved bezel, its cambered silvered opaline dial and crystal, its 'pearl' minute track, along with its baton-shaped hands sweeping over alternating triangle and baton-shaped hour-markers, have firmly established it as a timeless classic. Fitted with a brown alligator leather strap, hand-stitched, saddle-finished with large square scales, the elegance and presence of this timepiece is superb and pure perfection.

While the new Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 has remained loyal to its timeless design codes, its case has been the object of subtle and complex workmanship so as to form a unified whole with Calibre 1731 and to set a double record: the thinnest manual-winding minute repeater movement —3.90 mm— housed inside the thinnest manual winding minute repeater watch —8.09 mm.

The curve of the case middle has been accentuated so as to trim down the silhouette, while the sapphire crystal case-back has been opened as broadly as possible so as to reveal the hammers, along with a rare glimpse of the gongs. On the dial side, Vacheron Constantin has opted for an extremely elegant small seconds offset at 8 o’clock, the first in the Patrimony Contemporaine line: a useful and playful way of making the Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 instantly recognizable. The watch is delivered with the resonator of sound «La Musique du Temps» enhancing the sound and the harmony notes of the Vacheron Constantin minute repeaters.

At the bottom of this post you'll find a fascinating video from Vacheron Constantin and some of our live pictures taken at the SIHH 2014 earlier this year.

Sticker Price $365,000 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

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SIHH 2014: Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Openworked. Live Macro Pictures.

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News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Vacheron Constantin Presents the Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine. A 50-Piece Limited Edition.

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Pure, rare, and eternal, platinum is the ultimate material in the field of Fine Watchmaking. To honor this intrinsic alliance between pure mechanical refinement and inestimably precious material, Vacheron Constantin created the Collection Excellence Platine in 2006, composed of creations issued in limited series and designed for collectors of outstanding timepieces. This year the Malte Tourbillon —introduced in pink gold in 2012— joins this exceptional collection. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication with the new Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine.

On a pure, uncluttered 950 platinum dial with a sandblasted finish, discreetly adorned with the inscription “Pt 950” appearing between 4 and 5 o’clock, along with white gold Roman numerals and hour-markers, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new refined lines of the Malte collection. Its 6 o’clock position implied subtly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands that thereby stand out majestically above their beating heart.

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The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine comes with a curving 38 x 48.24 case in 950 platinum. Secured by a 950 platinum folding clasp, the dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather strap is graced with a saddle-stitched finish, hand-sewn with silk and 950 platinum threads lending an ultimate touch of perfection. This model is released in a 50-piece individually numbered edition.

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Such an exceptional watch naturally deserved an equally exceptional movement. The 169-part mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795 endows this model with an almost two-day power reserve. This tonneau-shaped movement perfectly tailored to the case is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture.

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The tourbillon carriage, inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross emblem, provides a splendid showcase for the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles. Rounding off the tourbillon bar alone called for 12 hours of hand craftsmanship in order to meet the finishing criteria established by Vacheron Constantin. This technique, referred to in French as berçage, consists of filing the tips of the arms with perfect regularity so as to give them a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the center and the heels. To finalize the operation, the artisans smooth it down using stones, buffs, wooden pegs and special pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.

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The Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine also meets the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève or Hallmark of Geneva. Instated by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886, the Hallmark is a guarantee of origin, craftsmanship, durability and expertise. This guarantee of quality no longer applies to the movement alone, but instead to the entire timepiece, thereby representing a major evolution for this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and has now opted to respond more fully than ever to the demands of an ever more well-informed clientele.

TECHNICAL DATA
Malte Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
Référence 30130/000P-9876
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Calibre 2795
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
27.37 x 29.30 mm (12 ’’’ ¼ x 12 ’’’ ¾)
6.10 mm thick
Approximately 45 hours power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
169 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours
Minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case Platinum 950
38 mm x 48.24, 12.73 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Dial Platinum 950, sand-blasted
« Pt 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Black painted indications
18K gold applied hour-markers
Strap Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp Folding triple-blade clasp in platinum

For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

News: Vacheron Constantin Presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac 2014 Year of the Horse. Only 12 Pieces Available of Each Model.

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Press Release

Introducing a fresh tribute in the ongoing saga of the Métiers d’Art collection, Vacheron Constantin presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac —a series of captivating timepieces based on the 12-year cycle. A symbol of a lively and independent spirit, the sign of the horse will take over from the snake on February 1st 2014. To mark this occasion, the Manufacture presents two new watch creations magnificently enhanced by enameling and engraving.

Since its founding in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has excelled in the field of precious ornamental techniques and cultivates passionate ties with the artistic crafts that it has consistently promoted by nurturing the transmission of expertise from one generation to the next. This know-how provides the Geneva-based watchmaking Maison with the opportunity to highlight its fundamental values —including of course its constant quest for excellence, as well as sharing passion, passing on knowledge and openness to the world expressed through unconditional support for both native and foreign forms of artistic expression. Paper-cutting, at the crossroads of Western and Eastern cultures
China, a land with which Vacheron Constantin first began establishing a trust-based relationship from 1845 onwards, is famous for numerous discoveries including the invention of paper and also known as the initiator of the art of paper-cutting or Jianzhi. This technique appears on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list and is echoed in Scherenschnitt, the popular art of paper-cutting born in the Pays d’Enhaut region of Switzerland. Sculpted in paper according to the principles of Jianzhi, the animals of the Chinese zodiac provide a remarkable demonstration of the art of using full and empty spaces. A challenge that Vacheron Constantin has taken up and translated into the field of watchmaking thanks to the skill of its experienced artisans. Engravers and enamelers have worked alternatively on this Year of the Horse model, crafted in pink gold or platinum and limited to 12 pieces each, reserved for Vacheron Constantin Boutiques exclusively.

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The leaf motif, stemming from classic Chinese iconography, is directly engraved in the gold dial. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuated reliefs creating a depth effect. The raised bamboo stalks appear to be floating over the dial. With the horse engraving, on which the details of the mane and coat measure a mere fraction of a millimeter, the artisan provides a tangible expression of the artistic vision behind this creation.

Then comes the stage of 'Grand Feu' enameling, a technique invented in Geneva and which remains the exclusive preserve of a rare breed of artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist further enhances the visual intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial. The necessity of maintaining tight control of the color and the reactions to the firing process that takes place in a kiln at around 800 to 900°C, calls for a specific way of reasoning that takes years to acquire. A final layer of enamel is then applied before a final firing operation that vitrifies the dial and lends a shiny glazed effect that gives added definition to the floral motif. The horse is delicately applied to the center of the dial, poised as if ready to gallop through the sapphire crystal and thus creating a truly striking effect.

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Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection owes its superb scope for expressing the decorative arts notably to Calibre 2460 G4. In keeping with its longstanding tradition of offering a broad variety of original displays, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the art of watchmaking by providing a hands-free display of time. It does so through four windows respectively revealing the hour, the minutes, the day and the date. The first two indications are of the dragging kind and the last two of the jumping type, and each appears through one of the four apertures arranged around the central dial motif. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the mechanical self-winding movement is equipped with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical motif inspired by the shape of the Maltese Cross, the historical House emblem. All its parts are treated to exceptionally sophisticated finishing that meets the criteria laid down by the Hallmark of Geneva – one of the highest tokens of horological craftsmanship created in 1886 and recognized around the world. This requirement now applies to the entire timepiece, which is duly certified by the Hallmark of Geneva. The 2014, year of the horse model, part of the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection, is endowed with that unique touch of soul possessed by watches bearing the Hallmark of Geneva. With this exceptional collection, Vacheron Constantin intends to pursue its special ongoing dialogue with collectors and devotees of Fine Watchmaking.

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For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

TECHNICAL DATA
References 86073/000P-9752 - Platinum and 86073/000R-9751 - Pink gold
Automatic In-House Vacheron Constantin Caliber 2460 G4
Movement diameter 31.00 mm (11’’’ ¼ )
Movement thickness 6.05 mm
Number of jewels 27
Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Number of components 237
Indications Hours, minutes, day of the week and date
Power reserve Approximately 40 hours
Case Platinum 950 / 18K 5N pink gold case
40 mm diameter and 12.74 mm thick
Dial 18K gold hand-engraved, coated with “Grand Feu” blue / bronze enamelling
Hand-engraved platinum 950 / 18K 5N gold Horse
Strap Dark blue / Brown Mississippiensis alligator, large square scales, hand stiched, saddle-finish
Clasp Platinum 950 / 18k 5N pink gold folding clasp
Half Maltese cross
Limited edition of 12 pieces for each model
“2014” engraved at the back of each timepiece
Note: Only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Experience: Vacheron Constantin at the SIAR Mexico 2013. A Fascinating Exhibit with a Watchmaker on Duty.

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This time we are bringing you Vacheron Constantin's exhibit at the SIAR —Salón Internacional de Alta Relojería—2013 in Mexico City this past week. This exhibit not only showcased some of the most relevant pieces across Vacheron's different collections, but it also included a few pieces from their museum and a very friendly watchmaker on duty that was working on different movements including a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and a ultra thin skeleton.

The highlight of this exhibit was the 'Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time' Unique Piece —on display— that sold for $80,000 during the Sotheby's auction that took place on October 1 to benefit the INAH —Mexico's national institute of anthropology and history. This worldtimer complication a.k.a. 'Patrimony Traditionnelle Heures du Monde' is a fascinating timepiece that not only provides the traditional 24 cities/timezones but also 13 special timezones with timezone variations of half hour to a quarter hour.

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Additionally, while we were there, we were fortunate enough to run into Mr. Rudolf Knoblauch, Switzerland's ambassador in Mexico. Very Nice meeting you Mr. Knoblauch.

Now, enjoy the pictures and as usual pretend you were there with us. 

For more information on Vacheron Constantin click here.  

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