Christophe Claret's X-TREM-1, is one of those watches where your mind needs to wrap around the idea that a magnetic field is the one working behind the scenes to display the hours and minutes. While horological fans understand that magnets and mechanical timepieces don't go well together, Christophe Claret decided to do the impossible by mixing them in one amazing horological complication. The X-TREM-1 ref. MTR.FLY11.100-108 features an 18K white gold and grade 5 titanium case with white gold metalized numerals and a tourbillon case at 6 o'clock. This timepiece is as visually striking as it is technically innovative. Christophe Claret has always focused on developing original timepieces incorporating the latest technological innovations. The brand is known for pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking and straying away from the beaten horological path. First presented in 2012, X-TREM-1 is a testament to this endeavor and represents a totally new way of telling the time.
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Insider: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Power Reserve Rose Gold. Elegant, Classic and Very Well Crafted for the Price.
Carl F. Bucherer founded in Lucerne since 1888, as a modest Swiss family business has grown into the internationally renowned Bucherer brand with its own worldwide chain of stores and it remains a family-owned business since then. Their watches and their movements are developed and manufactured in the company’s own workshops in Switzerland and all very reasonably priced for the caliber of watch that you get. This time we are talking about the elegant Manero Power Reserve in 18K rose gold ref. 10912.08. This elegant timepiece also available in stainless steel is exquisitely finished with a 42.5 mm 18K rose gold case and a beautiful sunburst silvered dial featuring a recessed power reserve indicator at 3, a big double date aperture at 11, day of the week at 9 and subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock.
Insider: H. Moser & Cie. Venturer Small Seconds. Where Simplicity and Clean Lines are the Name of the Game.
Not too long ago we brought you our hands-on review of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar 'Funky Blue' here. Well, now is the time we talk about another one of those understated pieces from H. Moser & Cie. This time, we are talking about the Venturer Small Seconds in 18K white gold. This exceptional timepiece where simplicity and clean lines are the name of the game, is not only a watch with superb craftsmanship but one of those watches where 'less is more and less translates into more rare'. But what makes H. Moser & Cie. so rare? Well, not only the fact that they make a 1,000 watches a year, but also their rich history. This company now under the reigns of former legendary Audemars Piguet CEO Georges Henri-Meylan, was originally founded in 1828 by Heinrich Moser in Russia. A year later, Heinrich Moser opened up a factory in Le Locle, twenty years later he moved to Schaffhausen —his birthplace— and in 1979 the company disappeared only to be brought back to life in 2005 when a new manufacture was built in Schaffhausen.
Insider: Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Orbis Mundi Moonphase. A Three in One Worldtimer.
A few weeks ago we met with our friends from Bovet to review some of their timepieces. Bovet was formally established in Fleurier in the canton of Neuchâtel in 1822 by Edouard Bovet and his three brothers Alphonse, Frédéric and Gustave. Rapidly, Bovet became one of the most prominent watch companies supplying the Chinese Empire with refined and sophisticated timepieces in the nineteenth century. In 2001, 179 years after being found, Mr. Pascal Raffy became the sole proprietor at Bovet Fleurier SA and took the brand to the next level.
The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Orbis Mundi Moonphase is by far one of our favorite timepieces from this brand. Fitted with an 18K red gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter, this timepiece is what we like to refer to as a three in one worldtimer with moon phase.
News: Presenting the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Frogman. Expressely Made and Exclusively Available for the Frømandskorpset Danish Frogman Corps.
Shrouded in secrecy, Frømandskorpset —Frogman Corps— is the Naval Special Operations Force in the Danish Military. This collaboration is a rare opportunity to lift the veil and explore the uncharted waters of the Frogman Corps. Typical missions will see the fraternal unit drop into the most hostile environments to rescue hostages from pirates off the coast of Somalia, often under the cover of darkness. They have been deployed directly into the heart of the most heated conflicts. In a rare instance of surfacing publicly, the Frogmen, through Conventus Ranae, have joined forces with Linde Werdelin to create a wholly unique timepiece commemorative of their brotherhood. Conventus Ranae is the formal association of past and present members of the Frogman Corps. A fraternal bond is naturally formed between active Frogmen, and Conventus Ranae exists to strengthen that bond between active and retired Frogmen.
Insider: MCT Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps Sequential One S100 and S110. Changing the Face of Time with Prisms.
The workshop of MCT —Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps— is located in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking region of Lake Neuchâtel. Each watch is made by hand and a single watchmaker follows its assembly from the beginning to the end to ensure the ultimate quality and traceability. The Sequential One is product of a collaboration between designer Eric Giroud and concept engineer Jean-Francois Mojon. This fascinating timepiece is very unique because of its monumental hour numerals, ingenious for its in-house movement and pioneering for its mechanism of sequential display. This manufacture lead by François Candolfi is living example of the level of innovation and the creative spirit of independent watchmaking companies. In order to ease the review of this timepiece, let's start with a video produced by MCT that clearly explains the complexity of this mesmerizing timepiece.
Insider: Ulysse Nardin El Toro GMT Perpetual. Perhaps the Most Robust Perpetual Calendar Out There.
The Ulysse Nardin El Toro/Black Toro GMT Perpetual ref. 326-03-3 is fitted with a very robust solid 18K rose gold case measuring 43mm in diameter and topped off with a fixed black ceramic 24-hour bezel and a black rubber strap with deployant buckle. El Toro, is perhaps the most robust and most user friendly Perpetual Calendar out there that also happens to also come with a sophisticated dual time zone complication. This watch is fitted with a stunning black dial with Côtes de Genève that could be perceived as slightly busy but somehow its striking design and beauty makes all elements flow nice and evenly. The dial features the traditional oversized skeletonized hands with luminescent material on the tips, day and month apertures next to the center pinion, seconds register at 9, year aperture at 6 and big date aperture at 1 o'clock. The black dial is nicely accentuated and balanced by the blued screws and the gold accents.
Insider: Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute American Eagle. Pure Art and Perfection in Only Eight Pieces.
As we've mentioned before, Jaquet Droz is a watch manufacture well known for their impressive 'Grand Feu' a.k.a. fired enamel dials with some of the most beautiful designs in the horological world. These dials embody the essence and fine watchmaking values of this manufacture. The Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute American Eagle is a limited edition timepiece with a striking 'Grand Feu' enamel dial featuring the iconic American bald eagle flying over a city skyline. This is as American as a Swiss made 'haute horlogerie' piece gets. One great thing about the fired enamel dials on the Petite Heure Minute timepieces is that the lack of a seconds register provides the perfect layout to decorate the bottom part of the dial with any motif or design. For those that don't know the difference between enamel dials and 'Grand Feu' —fired enamel dials— we'll explain it now. A regular enamel dial, sometimes referred to as an 'enamel lacquered dial', is a dial that has been painted with a shiny paint that hardens as it dries out.
Insider: Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Black Orange. A Perfect Match to an Exceptionally Rare McLaren MP4-12C Project Alpha.
The Linde Werdelin, just like this McLaren, comes with an exceptional design and fantastic craftsmanship. The SpidoSpeed Black Orange features a tripartite stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter. This watch is fitted with a two-part black galvanic dial with a perlage surface base center that almost appears like carbon fiber. The dial features orange glossy registers with perforations —the exact same hue of the orange of the Hermès boxes— that are located as follows: hour chrono register at six, running seconds at 9 and chrono minute register at 3 o'clock. The hands are diamond cut and fitted with gray luminescent material that is very bright when exposed to darkness and quite long lasting.
Insider: Ulysse Nardin Freak Phantom. A Superb Horological Complication with No Winding Crown.
Ulysse Nardin was born in Le Locle, Switzerland on 22 January 1823, a region that was already home to a wealth of watchmaking activities. Ulysse started as an apprentice to his father Léonard-Frédéric a watchmaker and then went to work with William Du Bois, one of the greatest experts of his age in precision timepieces, notable marine chronometers and astronomical watches. Ulysse began specializing in complicated watches, and quickly spotted the potential of a niche market as maritime transport grew. In 1846, at the tender age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name today.
After Ulysse Nardin's death in 1876, two generations of his descendents took over the company to later sell in 1983 on the brink of collapse and with just a handful of watchmakers remaining on the team. That year, 1983, marked a turning point in the history of Ulysse Nardin. During a visit to Switzerland, Rolf W. Schnyder, a visionary entrepreneur and watch fanatic soon got together a small group of investors with himself at their head to purchase the company.
Insider: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar 'Funky Blue'. Breaking the Paradigm of What a Perpetual Calendar Should Look Like.
Just as if the launch of its non-conventional looking perpetual calendar in 2006 —winner of the Grand Prix at the GPHG— wasn't enough, H. Moser & Cie. continues to tear down preconceptions with the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, a bold reinterpretation of this haute horlogerie model featuring a sky-blue dial and a kudu leather strap. As the discussion around smartwatches builds, the independent watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. takes a clear but distinctive position today. H. Moser & Cie. has produced smart watches for over 100 years by combining a clean interface, state-of-the-art ergonomics, ingenious functions and long power autonomy – without compromise. Today, they continue to nurture the next generation of watch lovers launching the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, a watch that both looks smart and is in fact very clever. This is the original smart watch and as H. Moser & Cie. likes to say it, "very rare".
Insider: Introducing the Bremont ALT1-ZT Zulu Time. One of the Most Iconic Timepieces from Bremont Gets a Facelift.
This year at Baselworld 2015, we had the opportunity to review the new Bremont ALT1-ZT Zulu Time. The ALT1-Z Zulu has been been part of the launch collection since 2007 and since then it has been an iconic Bremont timepiece over the years. Well this time, this iconic Bremont watch gets a facelift. The ALT1-Z Zulu is a model which was designed with aviators and world travelers in mind and features direct aviation inspired design cues such as the artificial horizon indicator. ‘Z’ stands for Zulu Time and allows the wearer to display local time together with the official world time standard. Championed by one of TV’s most adventurous travelers, Charley Boorman, who certainly tested his ALT1-Z beyond endurance for the TV documentary series Long Way Round with Ewan McGregor, Bremont was thrilled to hear him remark, “That first watch I had was a grey ALT1-Z and it did its job perfectly”.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the New MCT Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps Frequential One F110. Live Pictures and Pricing.
Up until the very end of 2013, MCT was an independent manufacture very well known and highly regarded for its signature prisms hours display mechanism and for its cushion shaped cases in watches like the Sequential One S100 and the S110 reviewed here , then, last year at Baselworld 2014, MCT decided to continue its evolution and present the Sequential Two S200 with a round-shaped case —reviewed here by us— and a top sapphire crystal that was not simply placed on the bezel, but stepped down and invisibly screwed to the case, therefore, allowing light to illuminate the prism displays from nearly every angle. Well, this time and just in time for Baselworld 2015, Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps continues to evolve and this time with a new watch named Frequential One F110 designed by Fabrice Gonet.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Butterfly Journey. Live Pictures and Pricing.
For Baselworld 2015, Jaquet Droz presents The Butterfly Journey, an homage to beauty and nature in two series of eight timepieces. The fruit of the Atelier d'Art's unique expertise, twin sets of Petite Heure Minute models are dedicated to the elegance of the butterfly, that fragile, romantic creature embodying the beauty of time. An angel passes, drawn along by a butterfly, and time seems to hold its breath in a moment of pure poetry. This motif, discovered in an old book devoted to Jaquet Droz, has been depicted just once before, in the Age of Enlightenment, by one of the legendary automata created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz. In 2013, it was given pride of place on "The Loving Butterfly" a watch paying tribute to putti —sculptures of children used to decorate some of Italian architecture's most beautiful buildings as well as the cultural treasures of Renaissance and Baroque Europe.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Christophe Claret Allegro. Live Pictures and Pricing.
Following Adagio and Soprano, Christophe Claret presents his latest musical masterpiece, Allegro. A master watchmaker with 25 years of experience, Christophe Claret has combined the finest horological complications in Allegro: a minute repeater with cathedral gongs, GMT, big date, small seconds and a day/night indicator. These features are all found in a completely redesigned movement featuring a unique regulator that was designed and manufactured in-house. The 45 mm round case harmoniously blends either 5N red gold or 5N white gold with grade 5 titanium treated with anthracite PVD. An opening in the sapphire dial reveals the striking mechanism. The transparent dial allows the wearer to marvel at the movement’s architecture, featuring Charles X style skeletonized, stepped bridges. With this new timepiece, the conductor of this musical horological orchestra from Le Locle proves he is at the zenith of his art.
Video: Baselworld 2015 Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower.
This year at Baselworld 2015, just like every other year, the brand wowed everyone with several watches featuring automatons. As you all know, Jaquet Droz's history was marked by his creation of automatons in the 18th century. In 1774, he successfully completed three humanoid automatons —The Writer, The Draughtsman and The Musician— that were presented in La Chaux-de-Fonds and a year later in France to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the MB&F Melchior L'Epée 1839 Table Clock. Live Pictures and Pricing.
Last year at Baselworld 2014, MB&F surprised everyone with its Starfleet Machine table clock in partnership with legendary clock maker L'Epée 1839 as we featured it here. This year at Baselworld 2015, in order to commemorate their 10th anniversary, Max Büsser and friends —MB&F— presented a new super cool table clock that looks like a robot out of a sci-fi scene named Melchior. Additionally, the Geneva-based Horological lab will present a number of Anniversary Pieces during the year, under the theme: ”A creative adult is a child who survived”.
Melchior, created with L’Epée 1839 is an impressive kinetic robot which may remind you of your childhood dreams, but also happens to be an impeccably finished, 480-component mechanical table clock with five barrels and a steel and brass armour. Fitted with articulated arms —the right one packing a rocket launcher and the left a Gatling gun that serves as the clock key winder—, jumping hours, sweeping minutes, double retrograde seconds and a 40-day power reserve this clock is a true tribute to refined, classic clock and watchmaking.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower. Live Pictures, Video and Pricing.
This year at Baselworld 2015, just like every other year, the brand wowed everyone with several watches featuring automatons. As you all know, Jaquet Droz's history was marked by his creation of automatons in the 18th century. In 1774, he successfully completed three humanoid automatons —The Writer, The Draughtsman and The Musician— that were presented in La Chaux-de-Fonds and a year later in France to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. This year, we were surprised with three amazing timepieces —fitted with automatons— from Jaquet Droz and here's one of them, we are talking about the new Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Flower.
This remarkable timepiece featuring Jaquet Droz's iconic figure-eight shaped case, is available in 18K white gold —8 pieces— or 18K red gold —28 pieces. The 18K white gold reference we have here, comes with a snow-set diamond dial totaling 0.65 carats, an 18K white gold butterfly applique with 54 blue sapphires totaling 0.87 carats and a surprising automaton underneath the domed glass on the top part of the figure-eight with a flower that opens and closes on demand.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold and SpidoLite Titanium. Live Pictures and Pricing.
This year at Baselworld 2015, Linde Werdelin didn't go as far as it did last year when it released the Oktopus MoonLite with a very special alloy called ALW, instead, this year Linde Werdelin decided to continue to capitalize on skeletonization of their movements and dials to enhance the look of their SpidoLite collection. This year, two new watches were unveiled, the SpidoLite Gold and the SpidoLite Titanium. Both watches in a limited edition of 75 pieces each, show remarkable skeletonization and ultra cool design. While the look of these two new watches is remarkable, one thing that we do need to point out —and we've said this before—, is that the sapphire crystals still don't come to with anti-reflective coating to improve readability and eliminate that unwanted glare that doesn't allow one to fully appreciate the skeletonized dials. Linde Werdelin, one more time, please add the AR coating to the crystals and either you soften the sharp edges of the crown guards or increase the crown size a bit so it's easier to pull out and operate.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat. Live Pictures and Pricing.
A masterpiece of watchmaking precision, a Deadbeat Seconds timepiece is a very rare complication that takes some of the most skilled horologists to make. Long forgotten and mostly used by brands like Arnold & Son, the Deadbeat —Dead Seconds a.k.a. Seconde Morte— has now been rediscovered by Jaquet Droz and released at Baselworld 2015 in the new Grande Seconde Deadbeat. For those of you wondering what a Deadbeat seconds mechanical timepiece is, it is very simple. A Deadbeat timepiece is one in which the seconds hand advances by jumping second by second —ticking as in a quartz powered watch—, rather than by sweeping around the dial. The new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Deadbeat ref. J008033200 is fitted with an elegant 18K red gold case measuring 43 mm in diameter and a rolled edge alligator black strap with matching pin buckle.
