Continuing with their partnership, Jaguar and Bremont are solidifying their long-term partnership by releasing two new E-Type Bremont Jaguar watches, we are talking about the MKI and the MKII. While the MKI is a non-chrono, the MKII is a beautifully executed 30-minute chronograph. While we have never been the biggest fans of the brand, we can tell you that we absolutely love these two new watches and these pieces could easily turn us in the opposite direction. In working to capture the E-Type’s essence in a wrist watch, Jaguar’s Director of Design Ian Callum and the creative team at Bremont homed-in on another of Jaguar's signature features —the dashboard. While E-Types were typically fitted with Smiths instruments on their dashboard, Bremont captured the look of the speedometer and tachometer on these iconic vehicles, just remarkably. These watches are both dedicated to the road-going Jaguar E-Type which at its 1961 launch was not only the fastest production car in the world but, according to Enzo Ferrari, the most beautiful.
Baselworld 2015: Introducing the New Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière. Live Pictures and Pricing.
Two weeks ago we brought you the news regarding the rebirth of the Angelus manufacture, which has now been revived by Manufacture La Joux-Perret. The latter, spent four years developing the next generation of visionary timepieces and here's the first one of them. May we now present you this hands-on review with some of the first live pictures on any other watch website of the new Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière. Boasting a radically deconstructed movement, the U10 Tourbillon Lumière features hours, minutes, dead beat seconds and a one-minute flying tourbillon, plus a 90-hour linear power reserve indicator on the case profile. The clean, modernist displays pay tribute to Angelus’ acclaimed travel clocks as well as taking cues from iconic industrial designs and designers of the 1960s and ‘70s. Powering the U10 Tourbillon Lumière is an innovative, finely finished, in-house calibre complete with oversized one-minute flying tourbillon, which is offset from the movement. Visible from five sides in its own sapphire crystal showcase, the circular ballet of the tourbillon is on full display. The generously-proportioned —62.75 mm x 38 mm x 15 mm— case, which took over two years to develop, features no fewer than seven sapphire crystals. All the crystals are bevelled, polished and subtly protrude from the case, creating expressive tridimensionality.
News: Legendary Angelus S.A. Manufacture is Back. Dormant for 30 Years and Rising High Like a Phoenix.
After lying dormant for more than 30 years, Angelus has now been revived by Manufacture La Joux-Perret, which has spent four years developing the next generation of visionary timepieces. The Angelus’ manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds is just a stone’s throw from where the Stolz brothers established their original manufacture. Dating back nearly 125 years, Angelus has been one of the most influential horological manufactures of the last century. Connoisseurs of high-end watchmaking have universally hailed Angelus' pioneering, in-house developed movements and timepieces, which continue to be coveted by collectors all over the world. Angelus was founded in 1891 by the brothers Albert and Gustav Stolz with the establishment of the Angelus watchmaking manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. Over the past century, Angelus forged a fine reputation for creating exceptional chronograph and multi-complication wristwatches, multi-display travel clocks with long power reserves, and alarm watches.
Pre-Baselworld 2015: Introducing the Frederique Constant and Alpina Swiss Horological Smartwatches. Finally Someone Had to Do It Right.
Finally, what everyone was expecting in the watch industry. The new Frederique Constant and Alpina Horological Smartwatches are 'wearable' smartwatches that you won't be ashamed of wearing and you will want to wear. There's no need to forfeit Swiss craftsmanship and a good decent looking timepiece, no more. Frederique Constant and Alpina are really setting the tune for what the future of Smartwatches should be like by launching two new timepieces that you really would care about wearing, instead of strapping the ridiculously looking Apple Watch. The two companies lead by Peter Stas are building the bridge between Silicon Valley and the Swiss Watch Industry by launching two Swiss Made timepieces powered by MotionX. These new watches are capable of bi-directional communication with iPhone and Android apps and are referred to as Horological Smartwatches.
Insider: Breva Genève Génie 03 Speedmeter. A Timepiece with an Anemometer and a Micro-Rotor.
Breva Genève is now very well known for creating timepieces that include some sort of mechanical function that revolves around the earth's elements. While their first watch included an actual mechanical barometer with a weather forecasting station on the wrist, their second timepiece included a mechanical altimeter. This time, Breva Genève presents a watch that includes an anemometer that pops up right on top of the watch dial. Named the Génie 03 Speedmeter —Speedometer as it is also referred to on their website—, this new mechanical timepiece is far from conventional, but not necessarily the most functional or even applicable to every day life events. While prior to the appearance of this timepiece, watches could only calculate speed by using a tachymetric scale, Breva Gèneve tries to make a statement with a timepiece that claims to provide an accurate speed reading in what they refer to as 'real-time'. Now, not sure how real time works when driving or flying in an enclosed vehicle or when the measurement is influenced by wind speed around you but we'll talk about that as we continue with our hands-on review.
Insider: Linde Werdelin Oktopus Double Date Carbon Green. One of the Most Unique Carbon Cases.
Today, we bring you these live pictures under natural light of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Double Date Carbon Green, a sporty and refreshing take on the Oktopus dive watch. Featuring champagne gold detailing, it revitalizes the Linde Werdelin collection of revolutionary diving timepieces for an active lifestyle. A numbered limited series of just 88 pieces has been individually crafted using 3DTP —Three-Dimensional Thin Ply—, the first ever carbon technology conceived for Swiss watchmaking, engineered to sculpt the iconic and angular Oktopus case by layering thin layers of carbon into a mold to give the finished product it's ultra-unique appearance with those horizontal lines, just like the rings inside a tree trunk. While the finish is somewhat similar to that of the new Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 CarboTech reviewed here, the layering on this particular case is just very unique and quite different.
News: Pre-Baselworld 2015 Linde Werdelin Presents the Oktopus Double Date Carbon Green. A Limited Edition of 88 Pieces.
Today, Linde Werdelin presents to you the Oktopus Double Date Carbon Green, a sporty and refreshing take on the Oktopus dive watch. Featuring champagne gold detailing, it revitalizes the Linde Werdelin collection of revolutionary diving timepieces for an active lifestyle. A numbered limited series of just 88 pieces has been individually crafted using 3DTP™ —Three-Dimensional Thin Ply—, the first ever carbon technology conceived for Swiss watchmaking, engineered to sculpt the iconic and angular Oktopus case by layering thin layers of carbon into a mold to give the finished product it's ultra-unique appearance with those horizontal lines, just like the rings inside a tree trunk.
Insider: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Boutique Edition. The Watch that Made Us Break a Promise.
They say that one of the principles of good journalism is to be objective and neutral about what or who you write about. Considering the circumstances between the brand F.P. Journe and our publication, we will do our best to keep this post as objective and neutral as possible. Sometimes, no matter how nice you are to people and how hard you work, you still run into arrogant executives in the watch industry that disrespect you or that think that because they work for a very special brand, you as a watch publication are obliged to take their attitude and still write about their watches.
Back in 2013 during the SIAR, we promised the F.P. Journe brand that we would never write about them as long as we owned this website. Today, we are breaking this promise just to pamper a very close and dear friend of ours that recently acquired the only F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Boutique Edition ref. CS that has made it to the American continent. Not only our friend wanted for us to do a special review of this special timepiece that he now owns, but we also felt that this watch is well worth talking about.
Insider: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red. Stunning Craftsmanship with Great Design.
Even though most of you are very familiar with Linde Werdelin, we will share some background information about this amazing manufacture for those watchlifestylers that are still not quite familiar with it.
Linde Werdelin was founded eleven years ago in 2002 by two fine Danish gentlemen. The name comes from its founders Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin. Since its conception, Linde Werdelin has focused on creating some of the most unique and fascinating timepieces with very avant-garde Danish design and fully Swiss made.
Linde Werdelin also produces digital instruments for skiing —the Rock— and diving —the Reef— that can be clipped to the top of their mechanical watches. Their watches are designed to carry the Reef or the Rock and they are made in very limited quantities making them super exclusive.
News: Presenting the Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater Openwork. The Manufacture Does it Again with a Half a Million USD Timepiece.
In 2012, The Bird Repeater featured two blue tits and their young birds close to the heart of the company’s founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz. This remarkable model reaffirmed the virtuoso expertise of Jaquet Droz, passed down from the 18th century and realized here in miniature. The following year, The Charming Bird watch marked the brand’s 275th anniversary with a new interpretation of the bird in an ultra-modern decorative setting and this time singing.
Now, the story continues with a previously unseen version of The Bird Repeater in a more streamlined, contemporary-looking model that has nonetheless retained intact the animated features that made it a success: a duo of blue tit birds feeding their fledglings, the spreading wings, the tumbling waterfall and the hatching egg.
Photo Gallery: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition. Only 188 Pieces of Pure Beauty.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon ref. 00.10918.03.33.01 is definitely one of the most beautiful and well balanced point of entry level tourbillons in the market. While this watch is not fitted with a fully in-house calibre, its 35 jewel manual wound movement with tourbillon —calibre CFB T1001— is exceptionally finished and equipped with a nice 70-hour power reserve indicator, 24-hour indicator and peripheral date indicator. Fitted with a nicely finished 18K rose gold case and with a black sunburst or silvery white dial, this limited edition timepiece delivers in terms of design, craftsmanship and looks.
Insider: Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green. A Watch With a Forged Carbon Outer Case at its Finest.
Earlier this year at Baselworld 2014, Linde Werdelin released three novelties —we have already reviewed the SpidoSpeed RoseGold Black here and the Oktopus MoonLite here. This time we are presenting you our in-depth review of the third novelty presented by Linde Werdelin. We are talking about the SpidoSpeed Green that showcases skeletonization not only throughout the outer case as with previous iterations in the Spido family, but also into the dial and movement.
The new Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green is fitted with a stylish black forged carbon outer case measuring 44 mm x 46 mm x 15mm that is complimented by other smaller details making this timepiece truly unique. Frankly, after perusing this watch, we can say that the quality of the forged carbon outer case is almost at the level of forged carbon cases from Audemars Piguet which is known as the pioneer and master of forged carbon application in the watch industry.
News: Presenting the New Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two Classique. Celebrating its 5th Anniversary.
On the occasion of the 5th Anniversary of the launch of the Chapter Two Original, Maîtres du Temps - Atelier d’Horlogerie is proud to present the new Chapter Two Classique in red gold and white gold. This new model underlines even stronger the architectural aspect of the collection through its Art Deco inspired dial on which the bold indices majestically indicate the hours. The Chapter Two collection features an instantaneous triple calendar displayed in large format thanks to the innovative high precision cylinders that in fact makes it the most legible mechanical calendar wristwatch in the world. Its outstanding movement is imbedded in a shaped case that expresses the strength and character of this collection.
Insider: JEANRICHARD Terrascope Aluminum. A Fun Timepiece in the Three Primary Colors.
The JEANRICHARD Terrascope ref. 60500-10-702-FK4A released earlier this year during Baselworld 2014, is as colorful as any luxurious timepiece gets. This is not a bumble bee, nor a volcano —perhaps some of the most colorful timepieces out there—, this is a beautifully finished timepiece that might be perceived as too loud and bright by a few, but for others quite fun and unique looking. The new JEANRICHARD Terrascope Aluminum features an ultra colorful aluminum case —not as light as many would imagine weighing 108 grams— in blue, red and green measuring 44 mm in diameter with the unmistakeable vertical satin brushed finish of the JEANRICHARD collections. Literally, a perfect interpretation of the three primary colors, all rounded up by a beautiful white dial with blued applied markers with orange luminescent material and a blue rubber strap.
Insider: Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition. While Not Fitted with an In-House Movement it is Still Quite Impressive.
Yesterday, we had the pleasure of meeting with Nick English and Michael Pearson from Bremont here in Chicago. After a strong wave of negative reactions from watch collectors regarding the Bremont calibre BWC/01 —the calibre that powers the just launched Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition and that was called an in-house movement on the press release we all watch publications received—, Nick English —co-founder of Bremont— spent some time explaining that while this movement is not an in-house movement it really feels in-house to them. Terminology and semantics aside, the newly launched Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition is a very nice watch.
News: Presenting the Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition. 450 Pieces Across Three Different Models.
Bremont is honored to announce the unveiling of the Limited Edition Bremont Wright Flyer. This new timepiece will feature some of the original fabric used on the 1903 Wright Flyer aircraft. Just as significantly, it showcases Bremont’s first ever in-house movement, the automatic calibre BWC/01, designed and developed in Britain. Many of its constituent parts have also been crafted at the company’s workshops in Henleyon-Thames. The 25 jewel, 33.4mm movement features a 50+ hour power reserve, Glucydur balance and a hairspring adjusted via a micro-metric screw. Utterly reliable and extremely robust, the BWC/01 is elegant and beautifully finished, with a central hour and minute hand and a running seconds hand at 9 o’clock.
News: Presenting the New Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Chocolate. Hours and Minutes Displayed by a Magnetic System.
Christophe Claret is pleased to present X-TREM-1 Chocolate, featuring a red gold and grade 5 titanium case treated with chocolate-color PVD, plus an alligator-skin strap of the same brown hue. This timepiece is as visually striking as it is technically innovative. Christophe Claret has always focused on developing original timepieces incorporating the latest technological innovations. The brand is known for pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking and straying away from the beaten horological path. First presented in 2012, X-TREM-1 is a testament to this endeavor and represents a totally new way of telling the time.
X-TREM-1 displays hour and minutes by means of two tiny hollowed steel spheres isolated within sapphire tubes on both sides of the caseband.
Insider: Vulcain Aviator Instrument Chronograph Sport Automatic. A Great Pilot's Watch for the Price.
The story of Vulcain began in 1858, in the early days of the Swiss watch industry. This brand from Le Locle has been making its mark for over 150 years and it was in 1947 that it entered the annals of horology thanks to its Cricket calibre, the first ever truly functional mechanical alarm watch movement, from that point on, successive American presidents starting with Harry S. Truman were to adopt it and thereby earn the Cricket watch its enduring nickname as 'The Presidents’ Watch'. A century and a half of watchmaking passion, as well as 150 years of creation, innovation and expertise patiently acquired and now devoted to defending the demanding values of Haute Horlogerie. Founded in 1858, the workshop of the Ditisheim brothers – which was to give rise to the Vulcain brand – immediately earned itself an enviable reputation through its complication watches, which received awards at several World Fairs. But the technical qualities of Vulcain watches also appealed to explorers and adventurers. From the 1950s onwards, the brand in Le Locle was to partner famous mountaineering and maritime expeditions.
The Vulcain Aviator Instrument Chronograph ref. 590163A17.BFC006 presented last month at Baselworld 2014, features a stainless steel case measuring 44.60 mm in diameter and 15.40 mm in thickness. The case is very robust, very well crafted and it features a domed sapphire crystal that gives the watch somewhat of a vintage inspired look. This new watch features a 12-hour chronograph and is available in six dial color variations including the dark grey featured on this review, blue, off-white, silvered, black and chocolate brown. The watch is fitted with a dark grey leather strap with red contrast stitching and with a stainless steel folding clasp. The texture of the strap is almost like that of nubuck, quite thick and not very supple.
The beautiful sunburst dark grey dial on this watch features a very interesting running seconds aperture at 9 o'clock. This horizontal double aperture shows a white disc with red bars that rotates creating an interesting visual effect and letting the wearer know that the watch is indeed running. The dial also features white Arabic numerals, a flange with minutes in 10-minute increments, a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and a 12-hour chrono register with built-in date aperture at 6 o'clock. In order to provide good readability of the chronograph, all of its hands are red, while the hour/minute hands of the watch are silver satin-finished with white luminescent material and shaped just as those in classic vintage pilot watches. Overall the design works well, without being extremely busy and the watch has a great aviator look.
One peculiarity of this new timepiece, is that the chrono pusher at 2 o'clock may come with the top all rhodium plated, blue, black or red, depending on your dial choice. The blue finish is reserved for the off-white dial, while the red one is only available on the model featured here. The pusher at 2 o'clock is very smooth when pressed to activate the chronograph and the reset pusher at 4 o'clock is rectangular shaped and fluted on its end to ensure a good grip.
The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Vulcain calibre V-59 composed of 247 parts, 27 jewels, a skeletonized rotor and nickel coated. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back and it provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. For a brand like Vulcain, we would've expected a nicer looking movement.
On the wrist, the watch wears more like a 46 mm watch with nice aviation like wrist presence. The red contrast stitching on the strap plays very nicely with the other red elements in this watch, making it look extremely sporty. For the price, you get a very unique looking timepiece with a nice and functional 12-hour chronograph and with a great name behind it.
Sticker Price $4,350 USD. For more info on Vulcain click here.
Insider: Valbray Oculus Minotaurus Red Gold. Fitted with an Obturator System and a Pinball Maze.
Valbray is one of those independent Swiss watch companies that has gone above and beyond with their watch designs and has created very unique timepieces that are quite easy to identify thanks to their revolutionary obturator system —inspired by the diaphragm shutter in photographic cameras— that allows for the user to fully or partially close the dial with a micro-mechanism that is fitted in between the dial and the sapphire crystal. Valbray spent over two years of research and design and after tackling several challenges they finally perfected it and registered its first patent in 2010. The Valbray Oculus Minotaurus ref. VR03W featured here, not only features the revolutionary obturaror system but also a pinball tridimensional maze on its dial that gets its inspiration from the enigmatic theme of the labyrinth and the Minotaur from the Greek mythology. If you were born in the 70s, you probably had several of these pinball maze games to entertain yourself.
The obturator system is composed of 16 extra thin blades, entirely integrated in a rotating bezel measuring only 43 mm in diameter and 7 mm in width. The diaphragm opens and closes by slowly sliding the blades on each other on a constant and regular circular shape. Protected by three layers of ultra technical coating, they maintain their elasticity and color and resistance to rubbing. At the maximum aperture of the bezel, the blades completely disappear, releasing a different underlying dial measuring 30 mm in diameter, while at the minimum aperture, only the central pinion and the hands are visible right above the diaphragm when fully closed. The bezel is waterproof and requires no button or bar to be operated. The entire system is thoroughly hidden, completely independent of the watch movement and is activated manually by turning the bidirectional bezel. This innovative system makes the Valbray timepieces interactive and intriguing at the same time.
The Valbray Oculus Minotaurus is fitted with a very generous black PVD stainless steel case with 18K 5N Red gold bezel —bezel also available in white gold— measuring 43 mm in diameter and featuring alternating satin-brushed finished and highly polished areas. The dial on this new timepiece released at Baselworld 2014 features a very interesting multilayer design fitted with a tridimensional pinball maze. The maze is finished in matte gold and accentuated by the white ceramic pinball, the skeletonized hour and minute hands with black tips and a highly contrasting red seconds hand. Now, for those of you concerned with the quality of the timepiece per the look of the hands in these pictures, it is important to mention that we photographed a prototype and not the final watch. Based on other Valbray timepieces we have perused in the past, we are confident that the final product will be immaculately finished. The case back is finely engraved with the iconic Minotaur and the limited edition information, which in this case is limited to 77 pieces.
Now, let's share some interesting Greek mythology for those of you wondering what the maze has to do with the Minotaur. Well, according to the legend, the maze of Knossos was built by the King Minos of Crete to imprison the Minotaur —a fabulous monster with the body of a man and the head of a bull. Once construction has been completed, the building was such a tangle of streets, theaters and galleries, that even his engineer Daedalus and his son Icarus found themselves prisoners into the inside. Each year, the city of Athens, under the rules of Minos, had to offer in sacrifice seven Athenians boys and seven girls to the Minotaur, who was eating humans. Until the day Theseus, son of the King of Athens, killed the Minotaur and managed to find the way out of the maze, thanks to the thread given by Arianne —the daughter of Minos—, which he used to scroll along the way. As you can see in these pictures, the level of detail and depth on the maze is remarkable.
The rotating bezel in 18K 5N Red gold is very solid and finished with a satin-brushed finish on the top and highly polished around the edges. The bezel features deep diagonal teeth making it very easy to grip and turn. The black flange around the dial features gold engraved markers that help round out the overall design of the watch in conjunction with its black PVD case. The crown is nicely finished replicating the diagonal teeth on the bezel and also finished in black PVD stainless steel.
The watch is fitted with a black alligator strap with pin buckle in black PVD stainless steel and 18K 5N Red gold insert with the Valbray logo. The strap is elegantly finished with black stitching and is also very supple and comfortable. The beating heart powering the Oculus Minotaurus is the Valbray automatic movement with 21 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.
On the wrist, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size and quite comfortably. The wrist presence is extremely unique and this is a watch that for sure will get a lot of attention from other watchlifestylers. Now, if you have children, be prepared to have them ask for your watch every time you put it on so that they can entertain themselves like you used to in the old days.
Sticker Price 13,700 CHF ex VAT. For more info on Valbray click here.
Insider: Christophe Claret Maestoso. A Timepiece with Detent Escapement, Constant Force and Actual Precious Rubies on its Movement.
In the old days, watch movements were fitted with precious rubies to reduce the friction and wear on certain key metal components in them. Today, those precious rubies have been commonly replaced by manufactures by synthetic rubies that do the work, but that don't look merely as beautiful. The new Christophe Claret Maestoso ref. MTR.DTC07.000-020 presented at Baselworld 2014, is actually one of the few watches in the market that features actual precious rubies on its fascinating movement.