Posts filed under Other Brands

Insider: JEANRICHARD Aquascope. A Great Diver's Watch Priced Under $4K.

Photo of whale on the background by Doug Allan & Sue Flood.

If you are looking for a diver's watch that is elegant but understated at the same time, rich in history and with great craftsmanship but you can't spend more than $3,500 USD, then look no further, this JEANRICHARD Aquascope ref. 60400-11B401-11A in stainless steel is the best value for your money.

JEANRICHARD—sister company to Girard-Perregaux— takes its name from a legendary name in watchmaking, Daniel Jeanrichard. This genius pioneered the development of the watchmaking industry in the Neuchâtel mountains in the late 17th century. Daniel Jeanrichard was born in the hamlet of Les Bressels, midway between La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle. In 1681, he created his first watch, then set up his watchmaking workshop. Daniel Jeanrichard was also a major driving force behind the watchmaking industry. He was ahead of his time, demonstrating a talent for innovation. In addition to the production of watches, the region’s watchmakers are indebted to him for the invention of machines and tools, and for establishing the basis for learning the art of watchmaking itself.

This massive cushion-shaped diver's watch weighing —approximately 260 grams— more than an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver on bracelet or a robust Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean XL is fitted with a very solid vertically satin-brushed finished stainless steel case with blue PVD coating around the corners —these PVD coating makes the case appear like there's a case within another case. The case measures 44m in diameter and its satin-brushed finish is only comparable to the grain on the finish of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks or Royal Oak Offshores. We promise we are not exaggerating.

The blue dial on this watch is also perfectly finished with a vertical satin-brushed finish to match the superb craftsmanship of the case. The dial is reminiscent of timepieces from the 70s with that same hue that varies depending on lighting conditions and the angle at which you look at it. The dial features applied rhodium-coated indexes and rhodium-coated hands both with luminescent material that glows strong and long lasting. The seconds hand features a red arrowhead tip, the minute hand is sword shaped and the hour hand is arrow shaped. The dial features a date aperture between the 4 and 5 o'clock markers with a black calendar disc. The anti-reflective coating on the crystal allows the wearer to appreciate the dial without unnecessary glares or reflections.

The bezel made of stainless steel is properly graduated with markers and minutes in dark blue that depending on the light can look slightly lighter in color. The unidirectional bezel rotates very smoothly and it is fitted with teeth that are easy to grip even when using gloves. The construction of the bezel is very solid and its design is very well balanced with a 12 o'clock marker with luminescent material. The screw-down crown was designed to perfectly match the teeth on the bezel and just like the solid case back, it is nicely engraved with JEANRICHARD's logo. This watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 300 meters or 30 Atmospheres.

The beating heart inside this watch is the JEANRICHARD automatic calibre JR60 with 26 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound, while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. This diver's watch is fitted with a sturdy and very well crafted elegant bracelet with double-folding clasp. Unfortunately the only two downsides of this watch come from the bracelet as it does not include a diver's extension —almost unthinkable; however but we've also seen that on the Tudor Heritage Black Bay— and it is not fitted with screws for easy removal of links —surprising considering that the watch is extremely well crafted.

Regardless of the bracelet downsides, we really feel that this watch gives you great value for your money and unparalleled wrist presence. This watch wears considerably larger than 44mm —perhaps more like a 46mm watch— and the bracelet makes this watch wear very comfortably. This timepiece looks great with a casual attire or while wearing a suite. This is definitely one of the nicest diving watches in the market and so well crafted that you can almost forget you are wearing a sports watch. The Aquascope is also available on rubber strap and with grey, white or black dial.

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here.

Insider: Romain Jerome Spacecraft. Like Wearing a Mini Spacecraft on The Wrist.

With a shape somewhat reminiscent of the shape of the Bulova Driver with red LED from the 70s —first watch that comes to mind, no pun intended—, the Romain Jerome Spacecraft ref. RJ.SC.AU.001.01 is a watch that needs to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. Below you will find two images of the Bulova Driver to see the similarity in the shape and of its retro-futuristic design. While the Romain Jerome stands apart from the Bulova at a very different level due to its design, craftsmanship, materials, horological complexity and price point, we feel the similarity is there.

This fascinating unconventional watch is product of the work between Manuel Emch —CEO of Romain Jerome— and two of the top names in the watch industry: Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The three men pooled their ideas and their creativity to give rise to a unique timepiece they named Spacecraft. Right from the first sketches, Manuel Emch and Eric Giroud imagined a very different type of product, combining retro-futuristic aesthetics and horological complexity. “The design evolved in step with our discussions and our numerous exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular object”, explains Eric Giroud.

The Romain Jerome Spacecraft is an unusual trapeze-shaped watch featuring a black PVD-coated titanium case measuring 50mm x 44.5mm x 18.5mm, that surprises and intrigues. To add to the complexity of this watch, the case is fitted with black PVD-coated titanium elements, beadblasted titanium plates and anti-reflective metallised sapphire crystals. With its rectilinear profile and its faceted surfaces it clearly echoes the aesthetics of a spacecraft. The black rotating disc with white numbers and a red indicator transferred on the sapphire crystal indicates the minutes on the top of the case, while the linear red lacquered retrograde jumping hour display is read off laterally, giving time telling a whole new dimension.

As expected from this manufacture, the level of design, the finish of the case and the intricate components of this watch are not only mesmerizing but worthy of admiration. The watch is fitted with a black polyamide mesh strap with titanium pin buckle that wears quite comfortably while maintaining the sidereal look and feel of this timepiece. The black PVD-coated titanium crown almost appears as if it were made of ceramic and it accentuates the facets on the top of the case superbly. The faceted design of the watch also prevails on the case back that protects the automatic calibre RJ2000-A fitted with 54 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 38 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. Additionally, the watch is waterproof to a depth of 30 meters.  

Because of its design the watch wears big and high on the wrist but very comfortably. In all honesty, the only way you can fully appreciate the craftsmanship behind this watch is by seeing it in person. We really consider ourselves very lucky to have been able to peruse one in person and work on this review with no stock images. If you used to watch the original Star Trek series while growing up, we are confident that this watch will fascinate you as much as it fascinated us. This watch is available in a limited edition of only 99 pieces.

Sticker Price $24,900 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here.  

Insider: Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' Limited Edition. Celebrating One of Mexico's Most Important Holidays.

Considering the importance of Mexican consumers from a watch collecting standpoint, Romain Jerome celebrates and commemorates this holiday with a limited edition timepiece decorated with a traditional colorful skull emulating the look of the traditional sugar skulls —'calaveritas'— of this Mexican holiday.

'Dia de los Muertos' —Day of the Dead— is a Mexican holiday celebrated on November 2nd throughout all of Mexico and it has been classified by the UNESCO as 'Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity'. The holiday focuses on remembering friends and family members who have passed while setting up private altars at home —called 'ofrendas'— to honor the deceased. The altars include pictures of the deceased, votive candles, Mexican marigolds —cempasúchil flowers—, sugar skulls —calaveritas— and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed. Scholars trace the origins of the modern Mexican holiday to indigenous observances dating back hundreds of years and to an Aztec festival dedicated to the goddess Mictecacihuatl.

The Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' ref. RJ.T.AU.FM.001.01 is available in a limited edition of 25 pieces in two different versions with or without spiral micro pave black diamonds on the bezel. This watch is fitted with a black PVD coated steel case —with encrusted black diamonds around the bezel— measuring 46mm in diameter, a black ceramic bezel, a black mirror-polished dial with skull shaped applique adorned with a 'champlevé' cold enameled decoration, a polished RJ logo at 4 o'clock and black satin brushed arrow-shaped hands with superluminova on the tips. The seven colors on the skull are representative of the seven stages through which the soul of the dead must pass —according to the Aztec beliefs— before being able to rest in peace. The texture and finish on the skull applique is just flawlessly executed and a real treat to the eyes. Opposed to what most stock images depict, the flowers on the skull are pink and not red providing the perfect contrast against the cream background of the skull and the blackness of the timepiece.

Just as with any other Romain Jerome timepieces, the case is very solid and massive but quite comfortable. The case features the traditional claws and hex screws on the case band and this particular watch is fitted with a very unique and nicely decorated solid case back. The beating heart inside this fascinating limited edition timepiece is the automatic calibre RJ001-A fitted with 23 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.

The Romain Jerome 'Día de los Muertos' is fitted with a beautiful black hornback alligator strap with deployant buckle that rounds up the interesting and fascinating design of the watch.  

On the wrist, the 'Día de los Muertos' Limited Edition wears true to its size and quite comfortably. The wrist presence of this watch is spectacular and if you want to highlight the pink flowers on the skull even more, make sure you pair it with a pink shirt or any shirt with pink accents. If you are Mexican or just someone that worships 'la calaca tilica y flaca' this watch is a must have.  

Sticker Price $21,450 USD. For more info on Romaine Jerome click here.  

News: Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Zagato. Two 500-piece Limited Edition Watches.

From the exclusive partnership between Chopard and luxury automotive designer Zagato, comes the 500-piece limited-edition Mille Miglia Zagato. Since its founding in 1919, Zagato has collaborated with the most prestigious automobile manufacturers, creating icons of the road which have taken home the Mille Miglia trophy in the 1930s and as recently as 2012. Inspired by the company's current crop of esteemed automobiles, this exceptional timepiece ref. 168550-6001 in DLC blackened stainless steel and 18-karat rose gold features the Zagato logo on both the case back and grill-inspired dial, curved chronograph counters reminiscent of a Zagato roof and a red pusher, for a distinct nod to the racing world.

Exclusive, robust and technically impressive, the Mille Miglia Zagato watch is the product of the partnership between Chopard and that legend of Italian automobile design, the bodyshop Zagato. While Chopard takes care of the model’s "performance", “engine “and "frame", Zagato helps create its "bodywork", "interior" and "upholstery". Much more than an ad-hoc collaboration, this limited series is defined by both the Grand Turismo style of Zagato and the timekeeping discipline of Chopard.

It was along the route of the legendary Mille Miglia road race that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, met with Andrea Zagato, the third generation in his family to head the Milan-based automobile body design firm. Chopard is the official timekeeper of the Mille Miglia race, in which the family has participated for the last 25 years. It was from here that the idea came of collaborating on a watch to celebrate their shared passion for automobiles and the values embodied by the Mille Miglia.

Sticker Price $9,900 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel with 18K rose gold ref. 168550-6001 and $8,100 USD for DLC Blackened Stainless Steel ref. 168550-300.

For more info on Chopard click here.  

 

Posted on October 30, 2013 and filed under News, Other Brands.

Insider: Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two. A Creation by Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth.

Maîtres du Temps is not so much a new watch company but an entirely new horological concept launched in 2008. Founded by Steven M. Holtzman, it brings groups of master watchmakers together to develop exclusive timepieces. Steven began his career in horology in 1982, when he joined the family owned business —Gruen Watch Company—one of the oldest American watch companies founded in 1894. In 1997, he created Helvetia Time Corporation —HTC— to distribute high-quality Swiss watch brands —including Roger Dubuis— throughout the Americas. With Maîtres du Temps, Holtzman acts as a catalyst for today's greatest master watchmakers to collaborate on the most innovative projects imaginable. This time in order to develop the Chapter Two, Steven brought together two masters of horology, Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth. 

The Chapter Two ref. C2T.05.21.142 in 18K white gold is a fascinating timepiece featuring a triple calendar with a groundbreaking movement that includes two independent rollers to display the month and day of the week. This watch features a polished 'tonneau' shaped case measuring 58mm x 42mm x 16mm that is massive but very elegant at the same time. Every detail on the finish and design of this case exudes elegance and perfection.

The chocolate color engine-turned sun-ray 'guilloché' dial with circular grain satin surfaces features printed roman numerals in white over a black background, running seconds at 6 and big date display at 12 o'clock. The month and day of the week are fully spelled on two black anodized aluminum rollers outside the dial at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively. The hands on the dial are made of 18K white gold and sword-shaped with diamond-cut facets. 

This fascinating timepiece is powered by the automatic Maîtres du Temps calibre SHC01 with a symbolic goblet-shaped rotor in 22K gold, 'panier guilloché' and relief text that reads: "Masters and Their Craft A Life Long Pursuit of Excellence". The movement is comprised of 382 parts and 32 jewels and provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound. The delicate finishing of the bridges features sun-ray 'Côtes de Genève', perlage, beveling, 'colimaçonnage' and polished screw heads. The movement and the rollers are fully visible through the octagonal display case back. Interestingly enough, this timepiece is fitted with a total of six sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating and the day and month correctors are on the back of the case to ease the setting of these complications.

 

The Chapter Two is fitted with a very elegant hand-sewn black alligator strap that is very comfortable and supple. The strap features a double-deployant buckle that is delicately finished and properly engraved. Even the finish of the strap lining is just perfection —notice the Maîtres du Temps stamping on it.

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This timepiece wears very comfortably on the wrist but sits quite high. Now, one thing that you will see when perusing or owning this timepiece, is that the craftsmanship behind it is just out of this world. This is 'haute horlogerie' in its purest form of expression. The watch is also available in 18K red gold and the dial colors available are chocolate brown, black, silver, rose or blue.

Sticker Price $86,000 USD. For more info on Maîtres du Temps click here.  

 

Insider: Breva Genève Génie 01. A Mechanical Timepiece with a Built-in Barometer and Altimeter.

Breva Genève is a company that was founded by Vincent Dupontreué on his 33rd birthday in 2010. Fueled by his desire for a nice complicated watch and inspired by a beautiful weekend in Italy's Lake Como, the Breva name came to mind —as ‘La Breva’ is a warm southern wind contributing to the agreeably mild micro-climate around Lake Como— and the marvelous idea of creating a mechanical timepiece that would also forecast the weather. In 2013, after three years of research and development, led by Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Dupontreué launched the Breva Génie 01.

The Breva Génie 01 is available in a limited edition of 55 pieces —of each metal— with a beautiful and very solid case measuring 44.7mm in diameter in either white gold or rose gold. The watch is fitted with three dual-purpose crowns on the caseband. The winding crown is located at 9 o'clock —engraved with Breva's logo—, a second crown located at 2 o'clock is used to make adjustments to the barometric pressure disc and to adjust the position of the altimeter when resetting it via a pusher —this crown is engraved with a wind rose— and a third crown at 4 o’clock is used to lock and unlock the air valve that gauges the atmospheric pressure —engraved with the word AIR. When this third crown is unlocked, the valve opens and allows a small amount of air to equalize air pressure inside the case with the exterior air pressure. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture from any air before it enters the movement. 

The multi-layer skeletonized dial features several easy-to-read indicators to keep the wearer fully informed about the time, altitude, power reserve and the weather forecast. The watch features two sub-dials in smoked sapphire crystal with the hours/minutes dial at 8 and the barometer at 2 o'clock with icons providing scientifically based forecasts of likely weather conditions to come. The altitude indicator is located on the top part of the dial as a small flange. Additionally, there is a small indicator at 12 for the running seconds and a 65-hour power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock that is beautifully decorated with a wind rose. Right above the power reserve indicator there is an indicator marked ‘SEALED' that warns when the air valve is in the unlocked position.

By now, most of you might be wondering how this mechanical masterpiece works. Well, at 6 o’clock, there are two aneroid capsules stacked one above the other to measure the slightest change in air pressure as air goes into the watch via the AIR crown. As air goes in, the aneroid capsule expands or contracts with changing air pressure to provide an accurate forecast of the weather conditions. The aneroid capsules in the Breva Génie 01 were especially developed to Breva's specifications to optimise their precision and use in a wristwatch. The capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory-metal —Breva patented invention— lighter and stronger than aluminum and twice as ductile as steel. A clearly visible lever rests on top of the aneroid capsules and transmits the combined height of the capsules through a complex system of gears and racks to the altimeter indication and the barometer. The altitude display reads from -300 to +5,300 meters, while the barometric display ranges between 973 and 1053 hectopascals —hPa. In a nod to the original method of measuring air pressure in inches of Mercury, an inner scale of the barometer is marked mmHg: Hg being the atomic name for Mercury —Hg from the Greek hydrargyrum meaning ‘silver water’. However, it is important to mention that the watch does not contain any Mercury in it.

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This fascinating horological complication is powered by a proprietary manual-wound movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. The calibre is composed of 405 parts, 46 jewels and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph. When fully wound, the calibre provides a power reserve of 65 hours. This gorgeous calibre can be fully appreciated via the display case back. The case back features an engraved hectopascal and altimeter scale.   

This watch is fitted with an elegant black hand-stitched alligator strap with folding clasp. The strap is very comfortable and extremely supple. Even though the watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 30 meters, we wouldn't dare to get this gorgeous strap nor the watch wet. 

On the wrist the Breva Génie 01 wears true to its dimensions and perhaps a little bit too high on the wrist. This fascinating complication is one that will for sure become a conversation starter with other watchlifestylers. We have included an image of the white gold version at the bottom of this review for those of you that like the understated look of the precious metal in its white finish variation. 

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. Only $5,000 USD more for the white gold version. For more info on Breva Genève click here.  

Insider: Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro. A Watch Inspired by a Tire Pressure Gauge.

The Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro is a watch that gets its inspiration from a manometer —tire pressure gauge. Giuliano Mazzuoli is an Italian watchmaker and inventor from Florence that comes from a legacy of bicycle makers, clockmakers and watchmakers. Giuliano's family was a prominent tower clock and long case clock maker in the 1700s. In the inventor's words, "There is nothing more difficult to design than simplicity, but one does not design simplicity. It is encountered like the way I encountered the manometro." His watches are designed in Italy but made in Switzerland to guarantee that the highest standards of watchmaking are met.

This fascinating timepiece inspired by simplicity is a watch that one buys not to be recognized but for the mere pleasure of owning it. The Manometro is fitted with a simple rounded highly polished stainless steel case measuring 45.2 mm in diameter and 14.8 mm in thickness. A nice and thick crown is positioned at 2 o'clock making you feel like you are wearing a real manometer on a strap. The simplicity and uniqueness of this watch is unlike any other watch we have reviewed recently. The Italian design of this timepiece is clearly perceived in every single component of the watch from the dial to the strap and everything in between.

This unique timepiece is fitted with a gorgeous ivory dial with black Arabic numerals, a chapter ring, black minute and hour hands, a red seconds hand and a 12 marker in red in order to provide additional contrast. The dial is simple, clean and very well balanced.

Fitted with an automatic ETA movement, the watch is solid, robust and reliable. The movement is protected with a screwed-in solid case back that is beautifully engraved with the timepiece's information. Nothing fancy, just simple and functional.  

The watch is fitted with a handmade —in Tuscany— natural color calfskin strap that is very nice, thick and quite comfortable. Due to the raw leather used on the strap, it will develop a nice patina over time showing more character as its color darkens. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle that is also very comfortable. As you can appreciate in the pictures, the strap is secured into the case by two screws. Additionally, there's a small stainless steel piece attached to the reverse side of the strap to guarantee that it molds correctly on the wrist.

The watch wears extremely comfortably regardless of its thickness and somewhat bulky case. This timepiece is available in a variety of case materials including brushed stainless steel, titanium, carbon fiber, PVD gunmetal gray titanium and a combination of rose gold and titanium. The dial is available in ivory or black.

If you want to wear a watch that very few own and become a trendsetter, this is a watch that will for sure become more popular over time. Glad we are the first ones to bring you this detailed review with live pictures.  

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on Giuliano Mazzuoli click here.  

Posted on October 18, 2013 and filed under Other Brands, Giuliano Mazzuoli.

Insider: Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic DNA. A Watch Made Out of History.

Founded in 2004 in Geneva, Romain Jerome has quickly become renowned for its unique concept, “DNA of famous legends”. Romain Jerome allows its customers to own a part of history by creating highly emotional timepieces and accessories inspired by and incorporating the DNA of a contemporary legend. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Titanic, Romain Jerome released a limited edition of 2,012 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono and a 100 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono 100th Anniversary. The main difference between the two is the rusted propeller at 6 o'clock on the 100th anniversary model.

The Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic-DNA ref. RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 is another creation made out of the remains of the Titanic. The black PVD case measuring 50mm in diameter is massive and is fitted with an oxidized and stabilized steel bezel stemming from the extraordinary fusion between the metal of the legendary Titanic wreck lying 3,840 meters below the sea and the metal provided by the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast where the ship was built a century ago. This bezel is held firmly in place by four steel black PVD-coated 'claws' and hex screws. 

The skeletonized dial features the iconic 'XII' Roman numeral of the Titanic-DNA collection in ruthenium with a raw finish. The dial features a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and running seconds at 9 o'clock. A propeller recalling the majestic propellers of the Titanic is located at 6 o'clock. The propeller rotates as the rotor on the back winds the movement. This is a very clever touch that makes this timepiece even more unique. Additionally, four pistons are located at 10, 8, 4 and 2 o'clock symbolizing the brand's 'X' motif. To round out the intricate look of the dial, the satin-brushed hour and minute hands were designed resembling the Titanic's anchor. Overall, the dial seems slightly busy but extremely interesting.

The crown and pushers are very nicely designed and both are very easy to use. The winding crown is fitted with a rubber ring to ease its use and features a hex shaped end perfectly matching the hex screws on the dial and on the 'claws' around the bezel.

The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic calibre RJ001-CS composed of 300 parts, 39 jewels and that provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The calibre is perfectly protected up to a depth of 30 meters with a solid screw-fastened case back featuring a beautiful propeller. 

The Steampunk Black Chrono is fitted with a very comfortable black rubber strap with deployant buckle. A hornback crocodile strap is also available if you prefer a more elegant look; however, we really think that this watch looks perfect on a rubber strap as it has a very rugged and sporty character. The strap features the RJ logo and it is fastened to the lugs by hex screws. The deployant buckle is fitted with a small push button on the clasp for quick-release.   

The watch wears almost true to its size and perhaps a little bit smaller. The watch does sit high on the wrist and its quite hard to fit it under a shirt cuff. Regardless, this is a very comfortable watch with fascinating wrist presence. If you like to wear timepieces that include remains of historical legends, this watch fits the bill. 

Sticker Price $18,000 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here. 

Insider: Badollet Ivresse. One of the Most Beautiful Blue Dial Watches.

Here we are presenting another one of the watches we reviewed during our meeting with Philippe Dubois, CEO of Badollet a few weeks ago. The Badollet Ivresse was presented at Baselworld 2012 and is a timepiece with one of the most beautiful midnight blue dials we have ever seen in our watch collecting life.

This is a watch that is simple, clean and perfectly balanced. The dial features an applied satin-brushed chapter ring on top of its midnight blue vertical satin-brushed dial and a highly polished Badollet griffin at 12 o'clock that almost appears as if it was floating in the middle of the darkness.

If minimalist German architect Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe were still alive, he would've described this timepiece using his famous quote "less is more". This beautiful timepiece features a 'tonneau' platinum case that wraps around the wrist like a glove. The case measures 53.80mm in length, 30mm in width and 12.30 in thickness and is fitted with an elegant dark blue alligator strap with large scales, safari finished with rolled edges, tone-on-tone stitching and a pin buckle also in platinum.  

Even though the rectangular 'tonneau'  shape is frequently used in ladies watches, this is a unisex watch that is extremely masculine and top heavy. The beating heart inside this gorgeous timepiece is the Badollet manual-wound calibre 2012. This calibre is a domed movement with cone-shaped going train, flying tourbillon and hanging barrel. The movement provides a power reserve of 5 days when fully wound and is fully visible through the figure eight —infinity shaped— display opening on the solid case back. This calibre, just like all other Badollet calibres is a work of art and a treat to the eyes.

The crown is perfectly flushed against the side of the case in a way where it's almost hidden underneath the watch bezel. This is a clever touch in the design that makes this watch even more elegant and visually appealing.

The wrist presence of this watch is superb and the watch wears very comfortably.  Opposed to what one would think, the watch doesn't wear high on the wrist because of its 'tonneau' shape that adapts to the curvature of the wrist. If you want to wear one of the most exclusive watches with a blue dial —since blue dials are so popular this year—, this is a watch that won't disappoint you, granted that you have enough money to buy one.

Sticker Price $220,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.  

Insider: Badollet Crystalball Bamboo. An Exceptional and Very Exclusive Manufacture that Excels in Watchmaking.

Last week we had the opportunity to have breakfast with Philippe Dubois the CEO of Badollet. Not only did we have an amazing conversation with him about his brand but we also talked about the watch industry and where things are heading. Philippe, thank you for sharing such a fascinating morning and afternoon with us.

Badollet is an independent brand with a strong pedigree that, because of its exclusivity and high price range, is only accessible for the ultra elite watchlifestylers. While we were already familiar with the brand before meeting with Philippe, we have never perused a Badollet timepiece before. To be quite frank, it is one thing to see stock images of these watches and something very different to see one in person, peruse it and photograph it. This will be the beginning of a series of reviews of Badollet timepieces that we will be publishing here in the upcoming weeks.  

The Badollet name is part of a dynasty of watchmakers initiated by Jean Badollet (1635-1718) a watchmaker that published in 1689 a work entitled "“The Excellence of Watchmaking” or Small Treatise Describing its Antiquity, its Fundamentals, its Necessity and its Curiosities". Jean Badollet passed on his passion for watchmaking to his six sons. Jean-Jacques Badollet (1756-1843) worked for Abraham-Louis Breguet by supplying him with movement-blanks, gear-trains and “trade watches”. Jean-Moïse Badollet (1811-1862), the son of Jean-Jacques, established the firm “J.M. Badollet & Cie” which quickly became renowned for the excellent quality of its chronometers winning the first prize at the Observatory Timing Contest of 1872, second prize in 1873, third prize in 1875 and the first class medal at the Centennial International Exhibition of 1876 a.k.a. the Philadelphia World's Fair. After several descendants of Badollet managed the company for almost a century, in 1924 the company was sold to a third party and the long dynasty of Badollet master watchmakers came to an end. Despite this, the brand lived on and in 2006 Badollet was revived by Badollet International S.A.

Badollet timepieces —often called instruments of time” by the company— are designed and developed with the buyer in mind and their production is limited to 50 timepieces a year. Their collection is composed of five lines: Crystalball Stellaire, Crystalball Bamboo, Crystalball Chronograph, Observatorie 1872 and Ivresse.

The Crystalball Bamboo is a rectangular watch fitted with a tripartite 18K white gold palladium-coated case measuring 40mm in width, 43mm in length and 14mm in thickness. The case is extremely well finished with alternating brushed and polished areas on the side of the case and even when the measurements really don't portray a large watch, this watch wears considerably larger than its actual size and sits high on the wrist with an amazing wrist presence. The attention to details is immaculate and the overall design of the watch is very masculine and quite timeless. The crown is delicately marked with Badollet's griffin. The lugs are hollow and welded into the case providing another interesting design component to this timepiece.

This timepiece features a skeletonized dial in 18K white gold with a blackened gold-coated brass base, leaf-shaped blued anodized steel hands and a mesmerizing tourbillon cage. The Crystalball Bamboo is powered by Badollet's manual-wound calibre BAD5600 with aluminum and lithium bridges entirely hand-engraved to resemble bamboo scaffolding. The plate and gears are made from blackened gold and the movement provides a power-reserve of five days when fully wound.

This movement is perhaps the most beautiful movement our eyes have ever seen. The intricate work on each of the bridges shows the love for horology and the level of detail obtained by the watchmaker when engraving the bridges is just out of this world. As a side note, Badollet offers ad-hoc personalization where the bridges or other components of the movement can be changed, engraved, replaced with ceramic, sapphire or even encrusted with jewels. All Badollet timepieces can be fully customized and even designed from scratch upon request. What a brilliant product offering for the few that can afford it.  …   

The Crystalball Bamboo, just like all other Badollet timepieces, is fitted with a very elegant safari crocodile leather strap that is handmade, leather-lined, hand-creased, saddle-stitched and available in matte or glossy finish. The strap features an 18K white gold palladium-coated double-deployant folding clasp with a round buckle with the Badollet griffin engraved on it.

If you are ready to take that next step into collecting ultra premium 'haute horlogerie' timepieces then it's time to consider Badollet as one of your next purchases. Tradition, craftsmanship, innovation and exclusivity are some of the values that embody the essence of this manufacture from L'Orient in the Vallée de Joux.

Sticker Price $250,000 USD. For more info on Badollet click here.  

Experience: Davidoff Mille Series 2000. A Perfect Mild Cigar for a Lunch Break.

Nothing beats having a good cigar during your lunch break. This time, we decided to enjoy a mild cigar that is ranked as one of the best cigars for beginners and a cigar that can be enjoyed any time of the day. We are talking about the Davidoff 2000, a cigar within the Davidoff Mille Series that is made in the Dominican Republic.

The Davidoff 2000 is a very mild 'Corona' measuring 5" in length with a 43 ring gauge. This cigar is perfectly suited for a quick smoke or a smoke with no liquor pairings. To join us in this experience a Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red that we have reviewed here before. 

This Davidoff 2000 starts as a slightly peppery cigar for the first five minutes, and then evolves into one of the creamiest and mildest Dominican cigars you could ever smoke. Perfectly rolled and reminiscent of the best 'Habanos', this is a Dominican cigar that will get you as close as possible to a Cuban cigar —in terms of its color, smell and smoking experience. You know we are not kidding as this is something we would rarely mention about cigars made in the Dominican Republic.

Once you light up this wonderful cigar, expect to be taken on a wonderful journey with a wide variety of notes that are typically reserved for more complex and bold cigars like 'Flor de las Antillas', 'Cohiba' or 'Montecristo'. As soon as you take those very first puffs as you are lighting it up, you will be greeted by a touch of pepper followed by some leather and coffee notes.

After the first third of the cigar, this Davidoff 2000 evolves every 3-5 minutes during its first half. After the first half, you will notice that the flavor profile remains quite even with seldom changes towards the last third of the cigar. After experiencing notes of pepper, leather and coffee, the cigar also presents caramel and some floral notes towards the end. Without a doubt, this is a cigar that can be enjoyed all the way to the end —even pass where its ring is located. The Davidoff 2000 is one of the few cigars that is comparable to some of our favorite 'Habanos' like the 'Romeo y Julieta' or the 'Quai D Orsay'.

The burning time on this cigar is approximately 35-45 minutes without a single burnout. The ash holds up very nicely for almost the first half —with a long white ash— in a cigar that has the perfect draw and that reviews should be ranking even higher.

Once you get close to its ring, savor the last puffs of this creamy, mild cigar while you check the time on that perfectly matching Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red.

For more info on Davidoff click here.  

Insider: Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph. Nice and Well Crafted Like the Pens.

Watchlifestylers know that the Montblanc name is synonym of top quality and finely crafted writing instruments. Montblanc, along with other names like Montegrappa, Caran d'Ache, Cartier, Dunhill and S.T. Dupont, makes the list of the finest pen makers. 

Now, when it comes to watches, sometimes it is hard for us watchlifestylers to admit that Montblanc puts the same relentless effort and care into creating refined timepieces and sophisticated complications as it does with pens; however, the Montblanc ref. 102337 Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph is a perfect example of refined watchmaking in a well crafted and beautiful watch. This is an ingenious way of honoring the French watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec. 

The Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph comes with a highly polished stainless steel case measuring 43 mm wide, an anti-reflective double coated sapphire crystal and the automatic Montblanc Calibre MB R200 with 40 jewels and a power-reserve of approximately 72 hours.

This monopusher chronograph features a matte anthracite colored dial with an applique hour circle with black Arabic numerals, date display, second time zone hand with day/night display at 9 o'clock, rotating chronograph registers at 5 and 7 —seconds and 30-minute respectively— and a 'Côtes de Genève' pattern on the lower part.

The chronograph is activated, stopped and reset by one single pusher located at 7 o'clock. Once the pusher is activated, the rotating disc at 7 o'clock starts to move indicating the seconds, while the 30-minute rotating disc at 5 keeps track of the minutes. Both registers feature anodized blue hands and black track numbers.

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The second timezone function on this watch is controlled via an independent hour-hand and a 24-hour anodized blue hollow hand. The date is set by advancing the independent hour-hand. The watch features a pull-out crown that is not very easy to pull because of the design of the case.  The watch comes with a black alligator strap with a double-folding clasp.

The craftsmanship of this watch is superior and every detail on it has been meticulously taken care of from the rotor with the Montblanc star logo carved out to the 'Côtes de Genève' pattern on the lower part of the dial to the perfectly engraved case back.

This watch is not only beautiful but a true horological masterpiece honoring a great watchmaker.

If you want a watch to match that Montblanc Meisterstück LeGrand ballpoint pen you've been using since 1990, then you need to get your funds ready and get one of these beautiful watches.  

Sticker Price $10,700 USD. For more info click here.

Baselworld: Ulysse Nardin. Ten Novelties with Impressive Horological and Design Attributes.

Since the manufacturer’s earliest days more than 167 years ago when its founder, Ulysse Nardin, began making marine chronometers in a mountainous location in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the watchmaking powerhouse has continually proved that challenges present vast opportunities worthy of exploration. It is these explorations that have resulted in Ulysse Nardin’s unprecedented inventions in horology. The year 2013 is ripe with invention and the introduction of six in-house developed movements.

Routinely seeking to forge unconventional relationships to strengthen its lead and independence in watchmaking, Ulysse Nardin went on to acquire Donzé Cadrans, the world-recognized enamel-dial specialist. Treasuring the art of enameling and enamel cloisonné, Ulysse Nardin adds this masterful skill to its in-house capabilities.

This year at Baselworld, ten fascinating new timepieces were launched. All of them with very impressive horological and design attributes.

The line-up includes the Marine Chronograph—enameled watch featuring the new in-house chronograph movement UN-150. The Black Sea Marine Diver in stainless steel with a vulcanized rubber coated case.

The Jade, is the first ladies watch with an in-house caliber featuring four exquisite green jade horns that flank the watch bezel with a magnificent ring of emeralds and diamonds and the ability to set the time and date without having to pull the crown out. The time is set by using a pusher at the four o’clock position that changes the function of the crown so that each adjustment is then simply made by turning the crown forwards or backwards without any need to pull it out.

The Black Toro Perpetual Calendar a rose gold and ceramic timepiece offering the simplest setting capabilities of any perpetual calendar out there.

The Stranger Musical watch which is the first in this series of 99-piece limited edition timepieces that plays the melody 'Strangers in the Night' on the hour and on call with direct collaboration by virtuoso Dieter Meier.

The Skeleton Manufacture featuring a flying tourbillon and available in two limited editions of 99 pieces in red gold and 99 pieces in platinum.

The Carnival of Venice Minute Repeater limited to 18 pieces with a dial that depicts two figures in front of the Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal. Both figures are wearing masks, alluding to the Carnival of Venice and with the minute repeater’s chiming of the hours, quarters and minutes, the figures lift their masks.

The Royal Ruby Tourbillon, a handcrafted masterpiece set with 12 rubies distinguishing the hours and accompanied by 48 diamonds in a limited edition of 99 pieces.

The Classico Cloissoné Pride of Baltimore—drawing inspiration from the history changing use of Baltimore Clippers during the War of 1812— and lastly the new Classico Serpent—celebrating the Chinese year of the snake in a limited edition of 88 lucky pieces, this timepiece is a mastery of the art of champlevé enamel method where cells are carved with a chisel directly on the dial and then filled with enamel of a variety of colors created from different metallic oxides.

Baselworld: Frédérique Constant. 25 Years with Classic Designs.

The name 'Frédérique Constant' has been created from two names: Frédérique Schreiner—1881-1969— and Constant Stas—1880-1967. Peter Stas current Managing Director of Frederique Constant S.A., is a 4th generation descendant of Mr. Constant Stas, who founded his company in 1904, making printed clock dials for the watch industry.

Frédérique Constant was established in its current form in 1988. Aletta Bax and Peter Stas launched their first collection in 1992, comprising six models fitted with Swiss movements and assembled by a watchmaker in Geneva. Today, each Frédérique Constant watch is hand-assembled at their manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in the Canton of Geneva. By the end of 2013, the company aims to produce and sell over 125,000 pieces. With its slogan ‘Live your passion’, Frédérique Constant will continue with their passionate development and production of exciting new collections at very reasonable prices.

This year at Baselworld we were able to admire in real life the intricate details and beauty of the Manufacture World Timer Limited Edition watch. This watch offered in a limited edition of 1888 pieces in stainless steel or rose gold plated stainless steel and with two dial configurations, caught our wandering eyes as soon as we started walking around their pavilion.

Our favorite one is the stainless steel version ref. FC-718WM4H4 with a robust 42mm case with a gleaming silver dial featuring a stunning silver world map at the center, polished midnight blue hands, an extra-large date register at six o’clock and a 24-hour disc with day-night indicators that includes 24 of the world’s greatest cities. The watch is fitted with a blue alligator strap and a display case back. One of the greatest advantages of this watch is the fact that no push button or second crown is needed to operate the cities' disc as everything can be controlled with just one single crown. Pretty impressive and with a sticker price of $3,450 this is definitely a bargain for such a beautiful watch and complicated movement.

For more info click here. 

Baselworld: Breitling for Bentley. 10 Years on the Road.

Breitling for Bentley celebrates ten years on the road with three new chronographs equipped with calibers entirely developed and produced in-house. For the launch of these three new timepieces at Baselworld, we received one of the most unique press kits featuring a USB designed to look like the keyless entry remote on a Bentley automobile. We really think this was a fantastic marketing idea from Breitling.

The three new timepieces include the Bentley B06 distinguished by its exclusive '30-second chronograph' system; the Bentley B04 GMT and Bentley B05 Unitime models will appeal to world travelers thanks to their ultra-practical dual timezone and worldtime mechanisms. Three new expressions of a world apart combining luxury,  accomplishment, performance and prestige. For more info on the Bentley collection click here.

Baselworld: Blancpain's Hand Painted Dials. Just a Superb Work of Art.

While visiting Blancpain's pavilion at Baselworld we admired one of their horologists hand painting dials through a microscope. We were impressed by his skills and talented hands. Now you can see the dials he was working on and what a superb work of art they are.

Enjoy!

Posted on May 3, 2013 and filed under Baselworld, Other Brands.

Baselworld: U-Boat. The Venenum Motorcycle Takes the Attention.

This year the U-Boat pavilion draw a lot of attention thanks to the Venenum motorcycle that was on display. The Venenum motorcycle is one of a hundred bikes that will be created exclusively for U-Boat by Dino Romano from Moto Dal Cuore—which translates to 'Bike from the Heart'.

Dino Romano's shop is located in Grosseto, Italy just 50 miles south of Siena. During the show we had a chance to talk to Dino for a little while and he explained to us how every component on this customization is fully handmade without the usage of any heavy machinery. Yes, all done by hand from cutting metal sheets to giving shape to  the handle bar and even creating the clutch and brake grips.

Dino mentions that the bike took approximately four months to create and it's a customization of a Triumph Rocket III bike with three cylinders and an engine of 140 cubic inches. The Venenum boasts 160 hp with a total weight of 595 lbs. 

As you will be able to appreciate in the pictures, every single detail on the bike was done in a way where U-Boat's iconic elements—i.e. the crown guard—where incorporated to the motorcycle in a functional yet very stylish way.

If you like watches and motorcycles, this could be your next dream bike.

For more info on this amazing bike click here. To browse the whole U-Boat collection click here.

Insider: Bulgari Octo. Evoking Gerald Genta.

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The new Bulgari Octo launched back in 2012 is clearly a revamped design of the Octo Bi-Retro and Quadri-Retro predecessors. The revamped design is an improvement to the famous Gerald Genta Octo design, with a somewhat thinner, simpler case with finer lines. The result, a stunning watch in every way.

Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 and acquired by LVMH Group in 2011. While it's more famously known for their jewelry creations, its watchmaking credentials were very well established by the famous Bulgari-Bulgari collection. Subsequently, Bulgari acquired Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta brands in 2000 and along with them, their manufacturing facilities at Saigenlegier, La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux. Today, Bulgari relies on their in-house movements to continue to establish their watchmaking credentials.
 
The Octo has a case diameter of 41.5 mm, a thickness of 10.55 mm and it's fitted with a gorgeous black alligator strap and deployment buckle. The Octo derived from the Italian word 'Otto'—meaning eight— was named this way after the octagonal facets of one of the layers in its case that are clearly visible from the side and also in-between the crystal and the dial. The exquisitely designed casing is assembled by hand with a multilayer complex structure of octagons, hexagons, circles, squares and rectangles. There are a total of 110 facets just on the casing alone with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel has such an exquisite brushed finish that it almost resembles the finish of white gold rather than stainless steel.

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The dial is a black lacquered dial with applied polished large batons and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock. The result is a watch that reflects and interacts with light like we have never seen before. No wonder, both laymen watch enthusiasts and seasoned watch collectors have been singing the praises of this watch since its launch. The design is very elegant with phenomenal attention to detail. The beating heart of the Octo is the Bulgari in-house caliber BVL193 with a 50-hour power reserve. The beautiful movement can be seen and enjoyed via the display case back. 

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Our watchlifestyler and friend Mr. B, mentions that the watch is very comfortable to wear, and one of his most comfortable watches. The black alligator strap is of excellent quality, supple, well made and well stitched; that is no surprise, as Bulgari is also famous for its well crafted leather goods. What is pleasantly surprising, is that the leather comes in a naturally bent shape so that it wraps around the wrist right out of the box with none of the stiffness that commonly comes with brand new leather straps—no break-in period here. The deployment buckle is also of very high quality and the buckle snaps into position with a satisfyingly loud clicking sound.  Some of the drawbacks are the lack of luminous material on hands and markers, size of date aperture and watch packaging. With a depth rating of a 100m, only the careless would take this beautiful alligator strap for a swim.

The Octo has a very affordable price for what you get, a perfectly crafted and very comfortable timepiece. Only time will tell if in the far future, if it will be similarly admired as some of the other Genta's creations. This watch is also available in rose gold. Sticker Price for the stainless steel model in this review: $9,500.

For more info on this watch click here.  

Insider: Chanel J12 ref. H0970. An Iconic Women's Watch.

The Chanel J12 has turned into an iconic watch when it comes to female watch collectors. Originally intended to be a unisex watch, this reference was launched several years ago and immediately became a hot watch among women. Today, it's still one of the favorite watches for women looking to make a fashion statement. Crafted in white high-tech ceramic that is highly scratch-resistant, this piece comes in three different sizes. The 33mm is fitted with a quartz movement and the 38mm and 42mm that come with a self-winding automatic movement.

The J12 is a watch well suited for every occasion, whether you are just relaxing at the beach, scuba diving or getting ready for a night-gala, this watch goes well with all types of outfits due to its simple look yet refined character.

 With a 42-hour power reserve, date aperture, unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, waterproof to a depth of 200m/600ft and a steel triple-folding buckle, the Chanel J12 is definitely a watch that can be enjoyed anywhere. In all is a very comfortable watch, not very heavy and with a superb finish.

Insider: Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu. In Memoriam to Our Friend Jon.

Bremont is a British company producing beautifully engineered chronometers in Henley on Thames, England. Bremont watches similar to Bell & Ross are inspired by aircraft instruments and the art of flying. Bremont watches are manufactured to a very high specification and every watch has a chronometer certification. The Bremont ALT1-Z Zulu line was designed with aviators and world travelers in mind. Z stands for 'Zulu Time' and allows the wearer to display local time together with the official world time standard - Universal Time Coordinated—UTC—, Greenwich Mean Time—GMT—, or even Zulu time—Z. UTC—replaced GMT in 1972— is now used as the standard clock of choice for international reference time in communications, military, aviation, maritime and other activities that cross time zones. This is one of the primary reasons why the Bremont ALT1-Z  has become the watch of choice for the professionals involved in these activities, including many Military Squadrons. 

Posted on April 1, 2013 and filed under Other Brands, Bremont.