On August 24th, 2023, we all heard the news about Rolex acquiring Bucherer, one of the oldest watch retailers. I am finally publishing this editorial, as I wanted the news to settle down and also give myself plenty of time to publish an editorial that would be thought-provoking about this acquisition. Rolex and Bucherer share a long history as Bucherer has been an official retailer of Rolex since 1924 and Jörg G. Bucherer is the last person still in activity to have known and worked with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.
From the Editor: Things to Remember to Stay 'Fly' with Watches. Be Versatile but Remain Stylish.
Today, as I was remembering that famous song from Three 6 Mafia called “Stay Fly”, I said to myself, why not do an editorial on how to ‘stay fly’, stylish and versatile when wearing our watches? Wearing your watches the right way involves more than just wearing them, it's about incorporating them seamlessly into your overall look and exuding confidence.
From the Editor: What Makes the Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon Titanium So Special?
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have shown creative daring and boldness in uniting their second Fundamental Invention, the Quadruple Tourbillon, with their groundbreaking interpretation of the GMT with its outsized rotating globe. Robert Greubel —a former IWC employee that worked on their Grand Complication Project and prototypist for complications at Renaud & Papi— and Stephen Forsey have been working together for over 20 years. In 1992, Stephen met Robert at Renaud & Papi, and in 2001 they co-founded 'Complitime', a company focused on developing and crafting complicated movements for prestigious brands.
From the Archives: The 'Holy Trinity of Watchmaking' in Reality Should Be 'The Holy Quartet' with Jaeger-LeCoultre Included
We all talk about the ‘Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’ composed by Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, and for years I have debated if it should be called the ‘Holy Quartet of Watchmaking’ instead. Since it seems unfair to drop Audemars Piguet out of the trinity and include Jaeger-LeCoultre in its place, I think that making it a quartet seems more fair and reasonable.
From the Editor: Watch Collecting Explained. What Drives our Desire to Collect?
Back when I became a watch collector in 1990, it was a totally different world and people collected watches because they were fascinated with the micro-engineering aspect of it but also because of their appreciation in terms of craftsmanship and status. When I decided to start collecting watches, I wanted to be fascinated with the ability to wear a savings account on the wrist and I started putting my savings into watch collecting. People collect things for a variety of reasons, ranging from personal enjoyment and passion to psychological and emotional motivations.
From the Editor: How Luxury Watches are Being Used for Money Laundering
Money laundering is a complex and illicit process through which illegally obtained funds are made to appear legitimate by passing them through a series of transactions. The goal of money laundering is to obscure the origins of the funds, making it difficult for authorities to trace their source. This process enables criminals to enjoy the financial gains of their illegal activities without raising suspicion. Additionally, governments have set limits on how much currency or monetary instruments can be taken across borders from one country to another. Nowadays, luxury watches should be considered monetary instruments as some of them are worth millions of US Dollars and it is very easy to cross borders without any implications. Additionally, I will explain how watch auctions can be used for money launder.
From the Editor: Six Watches I Think Barbie Would Wear. Even if You're Not a Barbie, Take a Look.
The latest Barbie movie just released less than a week ago where Barbie and Ken are having the time of their lives in the colorful and seemingly perfect world of Barbie Land has made the world go nuts about everything Barbie, everything pink, Rosa Mexicano —actually the hue of pink used by Barbie—, and that just made me want to talk about some of the watches that I think Barbie would totally wear because of their color scheme.
From the Editor: Brad Pitt Breaks the Watch Internet by Wearing a Steel Vacheron Constantin 222 at Wimbledon
Yesterday, July 16, 2023, during the final match at Wimbledon, Brad Pitt was spotted wearing a legendary Vacheron Constantin 222 in stainless steel and the watch internet broke. In a thrilling display of tennis mastery, the Wimbledon final of 2023 captivated audiences around the world. As the world's oldest tennis tournament, Wimbledon always carries a special allure, especially when celebrities of the caliber of Brad Pitt are wearing special timepieces. This year's final delivered a spellbinding clash that will be etched in the annals of tennis history.
From the Editor: My Thoughts on the New Louis Vuitton Tambour. I Call a Spade a Spade.
Two days ago, on July 5, 2023, at the Musée d'Orsay in Paris, Jean Arnault the Director of Watches at LVMH and the fifth and youngest son of tycoon Bernard Arnault introduced the new revamped Louis Vuitton Tambour. Luckily, I was not invited to the press trip for the presentation of this watch and regardless of that, I would’ve still expressed my thoughts the same way.
From the Editor: Timeless Elegance, Trends, and Challenges in the Current Luxury Watch Market
The world of luxury watches has always been synonymous with impeccable craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and status symbols. While technological advancements have made timekeeping accessible to everyone through smartphones and smartwatches, luxury timepieces continue to hold a special place in the hearts of horological enthusiasts and collectors like myself. In this article, I delve into the current state of the luxury watch market, exploring the trends, innovations, and enduring appeal that have captivated discerning individuals across the globe.
From the Editor: Angelus Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB. Not Worth the Money and Here's Why.
I am all about collaborations in the watch industry and I applaud when micro brands go the extra mile to deliver watches of high quality at a reasonable price. The Massena LAB creates, designs, and develops timepieces with renowned watchmakers and it was founded by William Massena, who has been a passionate watch collector since an early age. He was a watch dealer with stores in Miami and New York City and then became the COO —Chief Operating Officer— of Antiquorum in Geneva.
From the Editor: My Thoughts on the AP Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon 'Spider-Man'. Don't Want to Miss This One.
When I thought I had seen it all with the release of the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘Black Panther’ in 2021, I was definitely wrong. You can read my thoughts on that particular release here. Now, let me share my thoughts about what I consider to be the lowest any luxury brand could hit, let alone a brand like Audemars Piguet that I’ve been buying since 1998. How can you be part of the ‘Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’ when you release such a watch?
From the Editor: My Honest Thoughts on the New Rolex Oyster Perpetual 'Celebration' Dial ref. 124300
Now that the dust has settled, I am going to share my honest thoughts on how I really felt and feel now about the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 'Celebration' ref. 124300. As I stood in front of the vitrines at the Rolex pavilion during Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva, I just couldn’t believe what my eyes were seeing. This is the very first time that the Green Giant would do something like this. On one hand, I felt that they were very ballsy to come up with such a dial, but on the other hand, I felt that this wasn’t what I would ever expect from Rolex and their very ‘by the book’ approach.
From Editor: Come Inside the MB&F M.A.D. House. Their new HQ and Atelier.
While I was in Geneva attending Watches & Wonders 2023 at the end of March and the beginning of this month, I was invited by MB&F to come to see their new headquarters and atelier. The newly opened space is called the MB&F M.A.D. House and it was beyond a pleasant surprise and an honor to be there. While their previous headquarters were located in Old Town Geneva as part of their MB&F M.A.D. Gallery, the new MB&F M.A.D. House is located in the municipality of Carouge about 15 minutes away from the M.A.D Gallery.
From the Editor: Why is the New Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date My Favorite Novelty from Watches & Wonders 2023
The moment I laid eyes on the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date I simply loved it. Not only the watch sports one of my favorite dial colors but it is also one of my favorite complications that screams Vacheron Constantin all the way. Additionally, I love that the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date marks the first sports watch and the first Overseas to be equipped with a retrograde display.
From the Editor: Why I Think the Patek Philippe ref. 5270P-014 Lacquered Green Dial is an Absolute Grail
As we are five days away from Watches & Wonders 2023, I’d like to talk about one of the ultimate showstoppers at last year’s edition of Watches & Wonders. As I wonder what will Patek Philippe present this year, I can’t stop thinking about the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5270 in platinum with green lacquered dial. Without a doubt, the reference 5270P-014 is an absolute grail in my book and here’s why.
From the Editor: Why I Think that the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin White Gold is Pure Perfection
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin reference 4300V was first released in an all-gold version including a matching bracelet during Watches & Wonders 2020 in the midst of the pandemic and only in 18K pink gold. Later, it made its appearance in 18K white gold becoming one of the most understated and under-the-radar luxury watches from Vacheron Constantin that I personally lust for and love.
From the Editor: The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto is the Most Unexpected Watch of 2023. An Amazing Timepiece for the Price.
Without sounding like a snob, I never thought I would be featuring a Christopher Ward watch here at WCL, but the time has come. For me to talk about certain watches, these watches need to earn the right to be here, not because I think of WCL as the non plus ultra —nothing further beyond— but more than anything, because I truly believe in honest and unbiased watch content.
From the Editor: My Search for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 25854TI is Finally Over. Detailed Explanation of this Reference.
There are a number of words and phrases that would come to mind whenever I thought about finding one of my all-time grails, the titanium Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 25854TI.OO.1150TI.01. A range of adjectives describing this watch that go all the way from understated luxury to ultra cool sportiness, a Neo-vintage watch grail, pure watch badassery for those that really know, the ultimate FU watch, but most definitely, the words that would always come to mind, would be: a grand complication by Audemars Piguet for those that want the sportiest look possible in a very understated way.
From the Editor: Swiss Watch Industry Hits 28% Growth in the U.S. in 2022
According to the figures released by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH, the U.S. hit a record +27.7% growth in 2022 when compared to 2021. These figures do not account for the month of December 2022, but we are confident that with the holiday frenzy, the percentage might go even higher. Today, the U.S. solidifies its position as the most important Swiss watch market in the world with China and Hong Kong distantly following.