Every time that I’ve let go of the Zenith DEFY El Primero 21, I end up regretting it. This is the third Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 that I own. But, what is so alluring about this particular watch that I keep going back to it? Well, let me go into it. Originally released in 1969, the DEFY line has seen numerous facelifts and at one point it was responsible for almost killing Zenith during the reign of Thierry Nataf as CEO of Zenith between 2002 and 2009. The DEFY line was relaunched in 2017 and since then this model has come back stronger than ever.
If TAG Heuer and Hublot were to have a child, the Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 would be it and that is not a bad thing. The Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 is an impressive-looking watch that honestly doesn't look much like a Zenith even when you compare it to the early DEFY watches from the 70s but that is truly in the money.
Powered by a 1/100th of a second chronograph mechanism, the DEFY El Primero 21 is the new lineage that continues to prove why Zenith is one of the leaders and pioneers in making the most reliable and very accurate chronographs. But it is not until you handle a DEFY El Primero 21 in the metal that you see the impressive craftsmanship for a USD 14,000 watch.
The Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 features a 44 mm titanium case with an integrated bracelet and an open-worked dial with black and blue elements. If you are looking for an understated and sporty in-house chronograph under USD 15K look no further. I enjoy wearing watches that not everyone is wearing and that was the allure of my Audemars Piguet watches at some point. Now, I continue to gravitate towards those brands and watches that are not easily spotted, and this DEFY El Primero 21 is exactly that kind of watch.
With its angled lugs and modern design somewhat ‘Hublotesque’ looking, the DEFY El Primero 21 is a very sporty and sophisticated looking Zenith, that strays away from the classic and more elegant look of the El Primero Chronomaster or the other collections. The 44 mm titanium case is very well balanced in terms of wearability and exquisitely finished.
The watch features a central chronograph hand with a red tip that makes one turn each second —1/100th of a second—, a 30-minute chrono counter at 3 o'clock with a blue ring, a 60-second chrono counter at 6 o'clock with a black ring, a three-spoke running seconds indicator at 9, and a gauge-type chrono power-reserve indicator in black and red located at 12 o'clock.
Since I love open-worked watches, this watch and its design checks that box as well. The open-worked allows for a full view of the timekeeping balance wheel between 7 and 8 o’clock and the chronograph balance wheel at 10 o’clock. Yes, this watch happens to have two balance wheels and two separate mainsprings as the chronograph has its mainspring as it requires autonomy to keep the measurements down to 1/100th of a second. The chronograph is wound via the crown and it has a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock for its 50-minute power reserve.
The chronograph mainspring runs with a separate escapement and balance wheel located at 10 o’clock. After winding the chronograph, the Chrono power reserve lasts approximately 50 minutes, which is way over the 30-minute chronograph functionality this watch comes with. While the balance wheel for the chronograph beats at a frequency of 360,000 vph —yes, this is not a typo—, the timekeeping balance wheel beats at a frequency of 36,000 vph —5 Hz. When fully wound, the movement provides a power reserve of 50 hours and 50 minutes for the Chronograph function.
I also love monochromatic watches but on this one, the red, black, and blue elements are subtle enough to stand out against the monochromatic color scheme of the open-worked movement behind them but not in a very loud way. Additionally, the applied markers seem to float over the light grey minute track located next to the dark grey flange with 100th of a second scale.
The chamfers, the sharp angles, the combination of satin-brushed and highly polished areas throughout the case, the bezel, and the bracelet, along with the flat top case are just some of the things that I love about this watch. I have a soft spot for watches with these design cues that are very reminiscent of other watches I love like the Vacheron Constantin 222, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the Rolex Oysterquartz, the IWC Ingenieur, and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
Now, as far as the bracelet, this titanium-integrated bracelet is extremely comfortable and very well designed with top-notch finishing similar to that of the integrated bracelet released by Hublot a few years ago.
Overall, this watch ticks all the boxes for me, and on the wrist, it wears true to its size and is extremely light due to its case construction with a total weight of 143 grams. A very underrated watch that capitalizes on the prowess and long expertise of the brand making exceptional chronographs since 1969.
Lastly, in terms of the price and value equation, you are getting a lot of watch for the money.
Sticker Price USD 14,000. For more info on Zenith click here.
