For Watches & Wonders 2024, Vacheron Constantin presents the new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Platine in a 50-piece limited edition joining the Collection Excellence Platine. Attired in platinum throughout its 42.5 mm case, crown, dial, clasp and strap stitching, this watch is powered by the manual wound calibre 3200. Developed to mark the brand's 260th anniversary, this movement incorporates a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon regulator. These two complications have been technically optimized for reliability, precision and user friendliness. The perfectly legible dial features a large tourbillon aperture at 12 o'clock, while the 45-minute chronograph counter is positioned at 3 o'clock and the power reserve indicator at 6 o'clock. The movement's mechanical characteristics can be admired through the sapphire case back, including its column wheel adorned with a Maltese cross, its lateral friction clutch, its two hammers for zero-resetting the chronograph hands, as well as the peripheral tourbillon drive.
The Collection Excellence Platine is always issued in limited editions, crafted in platinum. First unveiled in 2020 and equipped with an in-house movement combining the two prestigious tourbillon and chronograph complications, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Platine integrates grand watchmaking traditions with a functional and elegant aesthetic that is classic yet unexpected, thanks to the original layout of its functions. Retaining distinctive features of the Traditionnelle collection with dauphine-type hands, railway-type minutes track and stepped case with fluted case back, all the main elements of the watch, apart from the movement and strap, are in .950 platinum. The case, crown, finely grained dial and clasp are all made of 950 platinum, while the stitching on the dark blue alligator strap is crafted from braided silk and platinum thread.
On the dial side, the tourbillon with its Maltese cross-shaped carriage is positioned at 12 o'clock, contrasting with the usual lower-dial position for this type of regulator. Another original attribute is the 45-minute chronograph counter appearing at 3 o'clock, while the 65-hour power reserve is displayed at 6 o'clock. Enhanced by a keen sense of proportions, this aesthetic reflects the work of the Maison’s designers, while at the same time optimizing functionality and time reading.
Turning the watch over, one can admire the beauty of the in-house calibre 3200 developed for the Maison’s 260th anniversary in 2015. At just 6.7 mm thick, this 292-part in-house manual-winding movement is remarkably slim for such a complex timepiece. It follows in the noble footsteps of the chronographs that forged Vacheron Constantin's reputation in the 1930s and 1940s. Its tourbillon regulator and monopusher chronograph function incorporated into the movement —as opposed to a modular construction— stem from extensive research aimed at optimizing its functionality.
Operating at the fairly sedate pace of 18,000 vph —2.5 Hz—, the regulator honors the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon bearing the small seconds indication. The next challenge was to provide as much space as possible for the regulator, while maintaining the central position of the time-only hours and minutes hands. The watchmakers developed a new peripheral drive system for the tourbillon carriage. This thinner construction enables the mainplate to be openworked so as to provide a spectacular view of the tourbillon. The extremely legible minutes track on the periphery bears fifth-of-a-second graduations corresponding to the level of accuracy enabled by the regulator. To calculate the speed in km/h over the first elapsed minute of the chronograph function, the minutes track is rimmed by a Base 1000 tachymeter scale on the flange.
Equipped with a column wheel to control the functions, Vacheron Constantin has developed a friction-drive lateral clutch system. Thanks to this system that avoids any stuttering, the seconds hand engages smoothly when the chronograph is started. The chronograph is also equipped with a dynamic "all-or-nothing" activation system that prevents the seconds hand from starting when too little pressure is applied to the pusher. This movement provides a power reserve of 65 hours.
The movement is housed in a 42.5 mm case measuring just 11.7 mm thick and paired with a dark blue alligator leather strap. The chronograph functions are displayed by a blued steel seconds hand and a minutes hand in 18K gold —like the power-reserve pointer. The hours and minutes hands are in 18K white gold, sweeping over a minutes track punctuated by applied hour-markers in the same metal.
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