Vacheron Constantin is offering a new interpretation of its Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton model in 18K 5N pink gold with a blue dial. The watch, which won a prize in the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, is equipped with Manufacture Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 measuring just 4.05 mm thick. The hand-finished skeletonized movement, a favorite with collectors, is highlighted by the grey tone of the NAC treatment given to the mainplate, bridges and oscillating weight. The technical nature of the perpetual calendar, which keeps track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustments, can be admired from both sides of the case which is barely 8.1 mm thick. Complete with its interchangeable bracelet/strap system, this timepiece reflects the grand tradition of Vacheron Constantin's ultra-thin watches imbued with the modern, contemporary spirit characterizing the Overseas collection.
Ultra-thin watches are part of the grand watchmaking tradition of the Maison. They have always been considered the ultimate quest in a mechanical world where extreme thinness is a symbol of style and elegance. As early as the 1930s, the Maison distinguished itself with ultra-thin pocket watches, then in the 1950s with wristwatches that were among the thinnest of their generation. In 2016, the Overseas collection stood out by offering a new aesthetic signature and unprecedented calibres and extreme thinness was naturally part of the adventure, resulting in an ultra-thin Overseas perpetual calendar watch.
This new skeletonized interpretation in 18K 5N pink gold with a blue dial expands the realm of possibilities. Acknowledged for its technical and innovative character, the model won the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020. In order to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s distinctive features, a perpetual calendar must be equipped with a mechanical memory of 1,461 days, taking the form of a cam on which, the different monthly durations are duly programmed. The mechanism can thus indicate without any need for correction months of 28, 30 and 31 days, as well as leap years. On the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin model, the day and date display along the horizontal axis is complemented on the vertical axis by the month indication across four years, while the moon-phase indication is symmetrically positioned at 6 o'clock beneath an opaque glass. The next adjustment of the date will only take place in 2100, a secular year divisible by four but not by 400 and therefore not a leap year —another singularity of the Gregorian calendar.
The Manufacture self-winding Calibre 1120 has been chosen to power this complication. This extremely thin movement measuring just 2.45 mm thick is already considered a classic in the world of mechanical watches. Complemented by a perpetual calendar module to form a total thickness of 4.05 mm, it nestles at the heart of the 18K 5N pink gold case with a total 8.1 mm thickness. Greatly appreciated by collectors for its reliability and performance, Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 has been entirely skeletonized.
The movement has benefited from haute horlogerie finishing work entirely done by hand on all its components, which have been hand-drawn to create a satin-brushed appearance, chamfered to enhance the play of light and given a circular-brushed, sunburst or circular-grained decoration according to their place in the heart of the calibre. The care devoted to these finishes is accentuated by the anthracite grey tone given by NAC (N-acetylcysteine) electrolytic treatment of the mainplate, bridges and openworked oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold. Operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire back of the 41.5 mm diameter case. On the dial side, the thin blue calendar display rings and the same colour flange also provide a clear view of the calibre, while ensuring perfect legibility.
The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is delivered on a matching 18K gold bracelet and with two additional straps, one in rubber and the other in calf.
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