Embarking into a trip to go visit of one of the most important watch manufactures out there is one of the most appealing things when it comes to our watchlife. Breguet is today the second oldest watch brand as it was established 20 years after Vacheron Constantin opened its doors in 1755. Established in 1775 by its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet the father of the tourbillon, Breguet is today owned by the Swatch Group and located in the village of L’Orient in Swtizerland’s Vallée de Joux —considered the cradle of Swiss watchmaking. After a 3-hour train ride from Paris, we arrived at the Vallorbe train station only 15 minutes away from Breguet.
Experience: Visiting the Breguet Manufacture in L'Orient. Holding the World's Biggest Guillochage Department.
Embarking into a trip to go visit of one of the most important watch manufactures out there is one of the most appealing things when it comes to our watchlife. Breguet is today the second oldest watch brand as it was established 20 years after Vacheron Constantin opened its doors in 1755. Established in 1775 by its founder Abraham-Louis Breguet the father of the tourbillon, Breguet is today owned by the Swatch Group and located in the village of L’Orient in Swtizerland’s Vallée de Joux —considered the cradle of Swiss watchmaking. After a 3-hour train ride from Paris, we arrived at the Vallorbe train station only 15 minutes away from Breguet.
Experience: The Audemars Piguet Museum. An Unforgettable Afternoon in Le Brassus.
A while back, while we were in Switzerland, we had the opportunity to visit the Audemars Piguet Museum in Le Brassus, a lifetime experience for any Audemars Piguet watchlifestyler.
Our appointment at the museum was scheduled for 1:30pm on a gloomy Friday. Considering that we were staying in Zürich and the drive to Le Brassus is almost three hours long, we knew we had to be on the road by 10 o'clock in order to be there on time. Here's a picture while we were getting ready to go pick up our car, right before breakfast time. This classic Hermès belt has been worn along with several Audemars Piguet Jumbos in the collection since the 90s.
Insider: Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle. Transforming AK-47s Into Timepieces and Jewelry for Goodwill.
Fonderie 47 was founded in 2009 by Peter Thum with the goal of reducing the number of destabilizing assault weapons in Africa. Thum realized the enormous problem these weapons created, having met boys and young men armed with assault rifles, and the victims of these weapons, while developing clean water projects in east Africa. There are millions of assault weapons in Africa. A large majority of these are AK47 variants. In Africa, assault rifles cost about 70% less than anywhere else in the world. While prices of AK47s have generally risen worldwide over the last three decades, they have fallen in Africa due to the sheer number of weapons and ease of availability. Thum decided to transform these implements of devastation into something as removed from them and as positive as possible, i.e. exclusive objects that would inspire change and fund the destruction of weapons. The mission to create a high-end mechanical watch incorporating metal from a destroyed AK47 began even before Fonderie 47 was founded, because it quickly became clear that the development and production of a completely original complicated haute horlogerie timepiece would take many years. Fonderie 47 has also worked with some of the world’s best designers and jewelers to create artistic pieces made from AK47 steel, precious metals and jewels. Working with the Nobel Prize winning NGO Mines Advisory Group, to date Fonderie 47 has funded the destruction of over 30,000 assault rifles in war zones in Africa. The name of this manufacture in the Vallée de Joux comes from the French word 'fonderie' —foundry for melting and casting metal— and '47' for AK47. Below, we have included the amazing video produced by Fonderie 47 that explains the principles and vision behind this amazing watch project.
Inversion Principle is a completely original timepiece, designed by Adrian Glessing and developed and produced by David Candaux —the man behind the Badollet Ivresse— and his team at Du Val Des Bois exclusively for Fonderie 47. Revenues from the sale of each timepiece will be used to fund the destruction of one thousand assault weapons in Africa, creating a safer environment for aid and development. This is a strategy that Peter Thum already implemented successfully in creating Ethos Water to fund clean water projects in Africa and around the world. While Inversion Principle is first and foremost a very exclusive haute horlogerie timepiece, subtle elements and mechanisms discreetly feature key attributes of the AK47. Each timepiece incorporates a plate on the back made from the transformed steel of a destroyed assault weapon.
Inversion Principle is a timepiece with a central three-minute flying tourbillon, instantaneous jumping hours with quick-set pusher, 240° retrograde minutes and lateral and back power reserve indicators. Orbiting on high above the movement, the central 3-minute flying tourbillon dominates the three-dimensional dial and mesmerizes the eye. Three second-hands, equally spaced 120° apart around the tourbillon cage, arc sedately across the seconds-scale above the tourbillon and 'Fonderie 47': 'Sedately' because tourbillon revolves at just 1/3 of the speed of a traditional one-minute tourbillon. While only one second-hand is visible at any time − the other two are hidden under the gold rifle-sight inspired frame set into the sapphire crystal − their positions are revealed by blued screws joining the outer tourbillon cage and inner three-arm hub.
A first, or even a second, glance is unlikely to divulge any obvious similarity between jumping hours, retrograde seconds and an AK47; however, avoiding blatantly obvious connections is the aim. On a more ethereal level however, gun mechanisms snap sharply and precisely into place: As does the instantaneous jumping hour at 12 o'clock as it changes the hour; and the large 240° retrograde seconds hand as it flies back to zero each hour across the bottom of the dial. Each press of the quick-set pusher in the crown advances the jumping hours by one hour.
The long 6-day power reserve has both a lateral indication via a sapphire window set into the left side of the case band and a second indication visible through the display back.
The display back reveals the stunning sunray guilloché pattern radiating out from the ratchet wheel on the calibre F47-001 which is capped by a dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47. The plate is in the form of the Fonderie 47 brand symbol and rotates as the watch is wound. The serial number of the destroyed weapon the metal is from '56-3701F42', is elegantly hand engraved beside the plate. “A mentor taught me what he thought generated the fundamental values of watchmaking: The eye; the hand; and the heart. These are values that guide my work. A timepiece built around these values generates powerful emotions.” David Candaux —Inversion Principle watchmaker.
The Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in 18K white gold and 10 in 18K red gold.
Sticker Price $350,000 USD. For more info on Fonderie 47 click here.
Technical Specifications of the Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle
Limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in white gold and 10 in red gold. Created by: David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois. Designed by: Adrian Glessing. Place of Manufacture: La Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.
Indications: Jumping hours, 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds on tourbillon cage; lateral power reserve indicator on case band and power reserve indicator on back.
Case and strap
Material: 18k white gold or 18k red gold.
Sapphire crystal traversed by embedded gold bezel bridge framing tourbillon cage.
Lateral sapphire window in case band for power reserve indicator.
Dimensions: 42mm x 14.6mm
Water resistance: 30 meters.
Dial: Translucent glass and sapphire crystal with enameled minutes and seconds.
Strap and clasp: hand stitched alligator strap with gold pin buckle matching case. Brown leather with red gold case or black leather with white gold case.
Movement: Caliber F47-001
Regulator: Central three-minute flying tourbillon.
Tourbillon cage: gold counter weight and curved to follow sapphire crystal.
Jumping hour: thin mechanism —patented.
Retrograde seconds: mechanism with light aluminum arm and precision regulator.
Power reserve: Six days.
Balance frequency: 18,000 vph.
Jewels: 38
Steel plate from transformed AK47 − serial number '56-3701F42' − in form of Fonderie 47 brand symbol on ratchet wheel visible through display back.
Finishing: Sun ray guilloche; hand engraving; hand polished bevels; heat-blued screws and power reserve indicator on back.
Experience: Tourbillon Boutique Chicago. Eight Magnificent Brands in One Luxurious Place on Michigan Avenue's Magnificent Mile.
As we found ourselves walking down Chicago’s magnificent mile on Michigan Avenue —just north of Wacker Drive and a few buildings away from the iconic Gothic Chicago Tribune tower— enjoying a rare sunny day, we stumbled upon one of the most magnificent watch boutiques in the city. The boutique is located on Michigan Avenue close to the corner with Ohio street. Trust us, you just can’t miss the Swiss flag flanked by the U.S. flags blowing in the wind.
Tourbillon is a group of watch boutiques launched by the Swatch Group —the largest watch brand holding in the world— a few years ago and is composed of 22 boutiques in some of the most upscale locations and fascinating cities in the world including New York, Moscow, Las Vegas, Beverly Hills, Geneva, Lugano, St. Petersburg, San Francisco, Seattle, South Coast, Short Hills and St. Barth amongst others.
Chicago’s Tourbillon boutique is a relatively new boutique that opened its doors in December 2012 and in just a few months, has now become a must-visit landmark for watchlifestylers living in Chicago or just visiting. In this boutique, you will find an impressive inventory from Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Omega, Swatch and Tiffany & Co. Come experience this luxurious and elegant boutique —with one of the most fascinating timepiece
As you head into this fantastic boutique, you will first be greeted by two amazing areas for Breguet and Omega that are almost like mini-boutiques within the boutique. As you walk in, you can’t miss Omega’s Baselworld 2013 novelties that are eye-catching. The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GoodPlanet is there with its blue and orange ceramic bezel that would be a perfect fit to match that Chicago Bears jersey that you’ve been wearing since 1985. Now that you’ve finally seen it in person, you like it even more.
As you turn around to continue to walk through the boutique, you can’t miss Breguet’s corner —classy, inspiring and full of 'haute horlogerie' creations. These creations are a living tribute to one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, Abraham-Louis Breguet —the creator of the tourbillon around 1795. As you walk around admiring the displays, you notice the book that is standing in between them and you take a closer look. You are surrounded by masterpieces, some of the most fascinating complications like the Tourbillon, the 'La Musicale' masterpiece, the Classique Grande Complication and even some of the cufflinks in their collection. You then ask one of the friendly, savvy employees to pull out the Classique Grande Complication ref. 5447 in white gold for you to peruse. With it’s grandeur and hand carved 'guilloché' dial, you are just left in awe. The display case back allows for full view of one of the most fascinating and intricately decorated calibres you’ve ever seen in person. Pure perfection right in front of your eyes.
Your next stop is at the Blancpain area —right behind Breguet— where you help yourself to a delicious Lindt chocolate. Savor the chocolate as much as you are savoring this watch shopping experience. You have been in the boutique for fifteen minutes and yet you just don’t want to leave.
Every display and every timepiece you peruse transports you to the 'Vallée de Joux' where these timepieces are carefully handcrafted. As you check out Blancpain’s displays, you notice that almost every reference from the Fifty Fathoms collection is available including the coveted No Radiations Limited Edition watch.
While you are sitting in the ultra comfortable white leather chairs, you are informed that they have one of the rare and very limited Blancpain Chinese Calendar timepieces in stock. You need to see that masterpiece of horology and if it winks at you, you know you’ll have to get if before someone else does.
After drooling over the fascinating Blancpain Chinese Calendar, you hold your breath and decide to think about it as there are still more watches you want to see. As you keep walking towards the back, the Jaquet Droz and Leon Hatot —exclusively available at the Tourbillon boutiques— displays catch your eye. While you admire the beautiful white orchids that flank the Leon Hatot displays, you think about your significant other and what she might like for you to bring back home for her —a piece of jewelry or perhaps a Jaquet Droz Ivory Enamel watch.
As you reach the end of the store, the journey is almost over, but Glasshütte Original, Swatch and Tiffany & Co. are there to get your attention before you make your final buying decisions. As you look around Glashütte Original, you notice the new Senator Panorama Date presented at Baselworld 2013. You’ve been wanting to see this watch in person since the end of April and now looks like it might be time to get it. At the same time, you check the lovely PanoDate PanoReserve.
Finally you’ve made up your mind and today you will be walking out with more than one watch. The friendly staff walks you upstairs to the private lounge area where you sit down and relax in the comfortable and beautiful brown Le Corbusier chairs as you sip down an espresso and savor another Lindt chocolate.
As you are getting ready to leave with your purchases, you take one more look at the fascinating space of the boutique and you give the Blancpain area one last look. Should you also buy that Fifty Fathoms No Radiations Limited Edition before it’s gone? As you leave the boutique fully satisfied with your new purchases, you look back at the tourbillon logo on the door handles and wonder when the new Glashütte Original Pavonina will be in so you can buy it for your significant other.
For more info on Tourbillon Boutiques click here. For each individual brand click on it respectively Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Omega, Swatch and Tiffany & Co.
Tourbillon Boutique Chicago
545 N Michigan Avenue
Chicago, IL 60611
312.836.3800
Store Hours:
Monday - Saturday 10 am - 6 pm
Sunday 12 pm - 5 pm
Watch Goodies: Mondaine Magnetic Red Desk Cube Clock. The Official Swiss Railways Clock.
One of the most iconic elements in almost every Bahnhof —train station— in Switzerland's largest cities is the Mondaine clock. With its unmistakable and easy-to-read face, distinctive hands and the iconic red seconds hand, the Mondaine clock is now an icon in the horological world. It is estimated that there are close to 3,000 of these clocks on station concourses and train platforms throughout Switzerland.
In 1944, Hans Hilfiker, a Swiss engineer/designer and employee of the Federal Swiss Railways created this clock which immediately became the 'Official Swiss Railways Clock'.
Based out of Zurich, the Mondaine Watch Group was founded in 1951 by Erwin Bernheim and started creating miniature clocks and watches to immortalize the iconic design of the railroad station clocks in the 1980s. Today, Mondaine Watch Group is the holding company for Mondaine, Camel Active, M-Watch and Luminox.
This modern Mondaine red desk clock ref. A660.30318.84SBC can enhance your workspace both at home and at the office. Fitted with a Swiss quartz movement, the brushed aluminum clock case measures 49mm in diameter and its red cube measures 7" x 7" x 4". The clock can be removed from the cube and attached to any metallic surface.
Next time you find yourself on your way to Baselworld or just visiting one of the 'haute horlogerie' manufactures in the Vallée de Joux, make sure you get one of these clocks to add a nice accent to that room where you keep your watch books and catalogs.
Sticker Price CHF 225, approximately $250 USD. For more info click here.
Insider: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre a Chronographe. The Art of the Chronograph.
Back in 1833, in the remote mountains of Jura, Switzerland, inventor Antoine LeCoultre revolutionized the art of horology and turned the Vallée de Joux into the cradle of fine Swiss watchmaking. Later on, the LeCoultre family would join forces with Parisian watchmaker Edmond Jaeger in 1903. Elegance and refinement are the keynotes of their creations. With 398 patents that have changed the course of watchmaking, hundreds of inventions and 180 years of history, Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces are a living legend. From the launch of the iconic Reverso in 1931 to the first lubricant-free watch in horological history, Jaeger-LeCoultre complications mark the culmination of centuries of research in the watchmaking field and the Duomètre a Chronographe with its 'Dual-Wing' movement is not the exception.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre ref. 6012420 Duomètre a Chronographe is the true expression and meaning of 'haute horlogerie'. This watch contains two independent mechanisms united by a shared regulating organ. One mechanism is fully devoted to a 12-hour chronograph, while the other is devoted to time keeping.
Available in limited series of 200 in three precious metals —18K White Gold, Platinum or 18K Rose Gold— with a 42 mm robust, yet elegant case, alligator strap with deployant buckle and a display sapphire case back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre a Chronographe is powered by the manual winding 50-hour power-reserve calibre 380.
With an off-white dial featuring hour, minute, central seconds, power-reserve indicators for both mechanisms and a chronograph with concentric hour and minute, minute-unit indicator, seconds and jumping seconds, this watch is really a true masterpiece of horology and artful in every way.
The chronograph hands —including the power reserve indicator— are anodized blue providing the right contrast and readability against the dial. The pushers are easy to operate, the dial easy to read and the craftsmanship of the timepiece couldn't be any better.
In summarize, this watch is easy to use, very comfortable to wear and extremely elegant. Could we ask for anything else here?
Sticker price $47,900. For more info click here.
Baselworld: Breguet Pavilion. Fine Horlogerie and Classique Designs.
Located right next to Tudor and across from Blancpain, this 'Haute Horlogerie' name from the Vallée de Joux offers a very classy and refined exhibition that includes horologists on site. Founded since 1775, but highly popular due to the creation of the tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795, this horology house stays true to his values and 'classique' designs. For more info click here.