Posts tagged #Swatch Group

From the Editor: Swatch Group Pulls Out of Baselworld. Is this the End of the Show as We Know It?

Earlier this year on my 'Letter from the Editor' published in the third issue of Watch Collecting Lifestyle print magazine, I talked about Baselworld 2018 and its future. Back on March 22, 2018, Swatch Group was already sending alarming signals about pulling out of Baselworld and so did Breitling. Right after Baselworld 2018 was over, Georges Kern CEO of Breitling sent out a statement confirming their participation in Baselworld's 2019 edition; however, Swatch Group didn't confirm participating or not, until this weekend Nick Hayek CEO of the Swatch Group announced on a statement via the Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung that his group of watch and jewelry companies would no longer be at Baselworld from 2019 onwards.

News: Glashütte Original Doubles the Number of Watchmaking Apprentices.

Press Release

On Monday August 19, 2013, German watchmaker Glashütte Original welcomed twenty-eight new apprentices to start off their three-year training at the Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking. Of 28 apprentices, 24 will learn the profession of watchmaking and 4 will acquire the knowledge and skills necessary to become toolmakers. This nearly 100% increase in the number of training positions represents one aspect of the Saxon manufacture's response to growing worldwide demand for its exclusive timepieces.

Glashütte Original Managing Director Günter Wiegand formally presented the new apprentices to Gunnar Müller, director of the school, and his team of teachers. The new class is the 13th to begin its training since the company-owned school was opened in Glashütte in 2001.

In the initial years of its operation, the school accepted 12 watchmaker apprentices each year; this year Glashütte Original doubled this number of watchmaker apprenticeship openings to 24. The number of beginning toolmaker apprentices grew from 3 to 4. The strong growth in the number of training positions has been accompanied by an expansion of the school's reach in recruitment; apprentices now come from all over Germany. Among the future watchmakers and toolmakers in this year's class are young people from Hamburg, the Rhineland and Baden-Württemberg. The Alfred Helwig school makes use of state-of-the-art equipment to provide students with the exceptionally high level of craft skills necessary to become professional watchmakers or toolmakers. Required courses in theory are accompanied by those offering experience and insight into in the practical aspects of the profession. 

In the course of the three or three and a half year training period, a number of different practical training courses bring students into selected areas of assembly and service at the Glashütte Original manufacture. The goal of the course is to teach students the traditional craft of watchmaking as well as introduce modern techniques and technologies and equip students to make effective use of them.

Considerable value is also placed on the maintenance of international standards of training, emphasized through the cooperation, unique in Germany, of the Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking with Switzerland's WOSTEP —Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program. This partnership allows apprentice watchmakers who pass their final examination at the Alfred Helwig School to obtain, along with the German Skilled Worker's Certificate, the WOSTEP diploma.

With the start of their training Managing Director Günter Wiegand made a promise to the new apprentices: if they complete their course with an overall grade higher than 2.0 —equivalent to mark B in the USA and in the UK—, they will obtain what has become a rarity in Germany today: a guaranteed job in the Glashütte Original manufacture or another Swatch Group company. 

For more information on Glashütte Original click here.  

Macros: Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Réserve de Marche. Fascinating Like the History of the Manufacture.

In 2013, Jaquet Droz celebrates its 275th anniversary, maintaining the avant-garde spirit and refined taste of its founder, Pierre Jaquet Droz.

Pierre Jaquet Droz was born in 1721 in La Chaux-de-Fonds. At age seventeen in 1738, Pierre opened his first workshop for clock making and produced a series of grandfather clocks with very sophisticated movements beyond anything that had been produced earlier. A decade later, after losing his wife and daughter, Pierre built a special carriage to take six clocks to be sold in Spain. Upon his return to La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1759 and after his successful sales in Spain, he focused exclusively on making watches, clocks and automatons —a moving mechanical device imitating a human being that was a precursor to robots. In 1774, he successfully completed three humanoid automatons —The Writer, The Draughtsman and The Musician— that were presented in La Chaux-de-Fonds and a year later in France to Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette.

Photo: Jaquet Droz website. 

Years later, the Jaquet Droz fame and success reached the confines of Asia, to the point where the fifth emperor of the Qing Dynasty started collecting some of his masterpieces including clocks and automatons. 

Acquired in 2000 by the Swatch Group, the brand returned exclusively to La Chaux-de-Fonds —after closing former operations in London and Geneva— and moved into its new 'Atelier de Haute Horlogerie' in the summer of 2010. Great timepieces have been presented since then including the Grande Seconde in 2002, the Eclipse in 2010 and the Bird Repeater in 2012.   

The Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Réserve de Marche ref. J028033201 launched a few years ago —as part of the Complication La Chaux-de-Fonds collection— is one of the first Jaquet Droz watches to slightly move away from the utilization of the figure 8 on the dial configuration. Well, perhaps if we look at the dial upside-down, the figure 8 is still there. 

The watch is fitted with a beautiful cutout and sectioned black Opaline dial with an off-centered hours and minutes sub-dial with roman numerals, a power reserve indicator at 10, a retrograde date indicator at 2 and a tourbillon with vertically aligned bridge at 6 o'clock. The indicators are beautifully done in red gold and fitted with hands with red contrasting tips.

 

Featuring a massive 18K red gold case measuring 47mm in diameter, this watch is very large, yet extremely elegant. To complete the beautiful design of this timepiece, this watch is fitted with a very nice crown with the traditional Jaquet Droz stars. From the beginning, Pierre Jaquet Droz used two stars to authenticate his watches and they are now a focal point of the Jaquet Droz logo. If you were to draw a circle around each of the stars, you would create a figure eight.

The beating heart inside this watch is the manual-wound Jaquet Droz JD3 Tourbillon calibre with a power reserve of 88 hours when fully wound. The calibre is nicely finished with black 'Côtes de Genève' and the unmistakeable clover engraving.

The Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Réserve de Marche is fitted with a hand-stitched alligator strap that is very comfortable and flawlessly finished. This watch is a true example of 'haute horlogerie' and worth every penny of its sticker price. 

Sticker Price $190,300 USD. For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.  

Experience: Tourbillon Boutique Chicago. Eight Magnificent Brands in One Luxurious Place on Michigan Avenue's Magnificent Mile.

As we found ourselves walking down Chicago’s magnificent mile on Michigan Avenue —just north of Wacker Drive and a few buildings away from the iconic Gothic Chicago Tribune tower— enjoying a rare sunny day, we stumbled upon one of the most magnificent watch boutiques in the city. The boutique is located on Michigan Avenue close to the corner with Ohio street. Trust us, you just can’t miss the Swiss flag flanked by the U.S. flags blowing in the wind.

Tourbillon is a group of watch boutiques launched by the Swatch Group —the largest watch brand holding in the world— a few years ago and is composed of 22 boutiques in some of the most upscale locations and fascinating cities in the world including New York, Moscow, Las Vegas, Beverly Hills, Geneva, Lugano, St. Petersburg, San Francisco, Seattle, South Coast, Short Hills and St. Barth amongst others.

Chicago’s Tourbillon boutique is a relatively new boutique that opened its doors in December 2012 and in just a few months, has now become a must-visit landmark for watchlifestylers living in Chicago or just visiting. In this boutique, you will find an impressive inventory from Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Omega, Swatch and Tiffany & Co. Come experience this luxurious and elegant boutique —with one of the most fascinating timepiece

As you head into this fantastic boutique, you will first be greeted by two amazing areas for Breguet and Omega that are almost like mini-boutiques within the boutique. As you walk in, you can’t miss Omega’s Baselworld 2013 novelties that are eye-catching. The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GoodPlanet is there with its blue and orange ceramic bezel that would be a perfect fit to match that Chicago Bears jersey that you’ve been wearing since 1985. Now that you’ve finally seen it in person, you like it even more. 

As you turn around to continue to walk through the boutique, you can’t miss Breguet’s corner —classy, inspiring and full of 'haute horlogerie' creations. These creations are a living tribute to one of the greatest watchmakers of all time, Abraham-Louis Breguet —the creator of the tourbillon around 1795. As you walk around admiring the displays, you notice the book that is standing in between them and you take a closer look. You are surrounded by masterpieces, some of the most fascinating complications like the Tourbillon, the 'La Musicale' masterpiece, the Classique Grande Complication and even some of the cufflinks in their collection. You then ask one of the friendly, savvy employees to pull out the Classique Grande Complication ref. 5447 in white gold for you to peruse. With it’s grandeur and hand carved 'guilloché' dial, you are just left in awe. The display case back allows for full view of one of the most fascinating and intricately decorated calibres you’ve ever seen in person. Pure perfection right in front of your eyes.

Your next stop is at the Blancpain area —right behind Breguet— where you help yourself to a delicious Lindt chocolate. Savor the chocolate as much as you are savoring this watch shopping experience. You have been in the boutique for fifteen minutes and yet you just don’t want to leave.

Every display and every timepiece you peruse transports you to the 'Vallée de Joux' where these timepieces are carefully handcrafted. As you check out Blancpain’s displays, you notice that almost every reference from the Fifty Fathoms collection is available including the coveted No Radiations Limited Edition watch.

While you are sitting in the ultra comfortable white leather chairs, you are informed that they have one of the rare and very limited Blancpain Chinese Calendar timepieces in stock. You need to see that masterpiece of horology and if it winks at you, you know you’ll have to get if before someone else does.

After drooling over the fascinating Blancpain Chinese Calendar, you hold your breath and decide to think about it as there are still more watches you want to see. As you keep walking towards the back, the Jaquet Droz and Leon Hatot —exclusively available at the Tourbillon boutiques— displays catch your eye. While you admire the beautiful white orchids that flank the Leon Hatot displays, you think about your significant other and what she might like for you to bring back home for her —a piece of jewelry or perhaps a Jaquet Droz Ivory Enamel watch. 

As you reach the end of the store, the journey is almost over, but Glasshütte Original, Swatch and Tiffany & Co. are there to get your attention before you make your final buying decisions. As you look around Glashütte Original, you notice the new Senator Panorama Date presented at Baselworld 2013. You’ve been wanting to see this watch in person since the end of April and now looks like it might be time to get it. At the same time, you check the lovely PanoDate PanoReserve.

Finally you’ve made up your mind and today you will be walking out with more than one watch. The friendly staff walks you upstairs to the private lounge area where you sit down and relax in the comfortable and beautiful brown Le Corbusier chairs as you sip down an espresso and savor another Lindt chocolate.

As you are getting ready to leave with your purchases, you take one more look at the fascinating space of the boutique and you give the Blancpain area one last look. Should you also buy that Fifty Fathoms No Radiations Limited Edition before it’s gone? As you leave the boutique fully satisfied with your new purchases, you look back at the tourbillon logo on the door handles and wonder when the new Glashütte Original Pavonina will be in so you can buy it for your significant other.

For more info on Tourbillon Boutiques click here. For each individual brand click on it respectively Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Omega, Swatch and Tiffany & Co.

Tourbillon Boutique Chicago
545 N Michigan Avenue
Chicago, IL 60611

312.836.3800

Store Hours:

Monday - Saturday 10 am - 6 pm
Sunday 12 pm - 5 pm

Insider: Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date. A German Modern Vintage Timepiece Where 'Less is More'.

In 1845, Ferdinand Adolphe Lange founded the first watch manufacture in Glashütte, Germany, a place well known for its silver mining industry. At the time, the goal was to turn Glashütte into a German watchmaking central. In 1927, the first Glashütte Original watch appeared —a ladies watch bearing the 'Glashütte Original' imprint on the dial.

In the early 1950s, GUB —VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe— was formed through the merger of multiple firms including UROFA, UFAG, VEB Lange –formerly A. Lange & Söhne—, VEB Präzision Glashütte, VEB Messtechnik —formerly R. Mühle & Sohn—, VEB Feintechnik, VEB Estler and the Makarenko trade school.

In the mid sixties, two large automatic men's movements were launched under the 'Spezimatic' name and in 1978, the Glashütte Original 'Spezichron' with day and date was released.

Images below from the Glashütte Original website.  

In the 1990s with the reunification of Germany, VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe changed to Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe GmbH and in October of 2000, the brand was acquired by the Swatch Group to be transformed from a locally renowned brand into a global luxury name. Today, Glashütte Original is one of the most sough after watches by savvy watchlifestylers and those in the know.

The Sixties Panorama Date ref. 23947030204 we are reviewing here belongs to the 20th Century Vintage collection of Glashütte Original. The vintage look of this timepiece clearly reminiscences the iconic watches from the Mad Men era —a time in which your wristwatch didn't say much about yourself unless you were wearing a Rolex. Nowadays, watches have turned into a clear reflection of individual taste as well as personality.

The Sixties Panorama Date ref. 23947030204 in stainless steel is a vintage modern watch fitted with a 42 mm case, a domed flat top sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, a black domed galvanized dial —with white markers and stylized Arabic numerals at 12, 9, 6 and 3—, a display case back and the usual Glashütte Original iconic big date indicator at 6 o'clock composed by two-independent discs. 

While the dial on this watch is black —also available in blue and silver—, the color of it varies depending on lighting conditions, going all the way from jet black to graphite gray and every other hue in between.  

The watch features a gorgeous Louisiana alligator strap with a pin buckle that is very comfortable, soft and extremely well crafted. You really can't expect anything less from a brand like Glashütte Original or any other brand owned by the Swatch Group.

The Sixties Panorama Date comes with a screwed display case back that is worth talking about. While most display case backs include a small sapphire crystal, the Sixties Panorama Date features a case back mainly composed by a domed flat top sapphire crystal —very similar to the one on the front of the watch— surrounded by a very thin stainless steel bezel that is secured to the case via five screws. This case back offers a fantastic full view of the gorgeous Glashütte automatic calibre 39-47. 

Overall, this watch is not only beautiful but also very comfortable, regardless of its thick case construction. The watch sits very nicely on the wrist without protruding too much. One thing that is worth highlighting, is that due to the domed shape of the crystal, the watch appears to wear larger than 42 mm and more like a 44-45 mm watch.

The Glashütte Sixties Panorama Date is a watch that definitely comes with the prestige and craftsmanship that the most demanding watchlifestylers seek when buying that next piece to add to their collections.

If you want to look like Don Draper or Peter Campbell on that next new business pitch, this watch is a must have.

Sticker Price $9,200 USD. For more info click here.