The dial on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most iconic dials in the watch world and there is more than meets the eye to its making and different textures. Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972 with a dial featuring a ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché motif that is referred to by AP as ‘petite tapisserie’. Then in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore was released with a similar type of tapisserie but there are small nuances between the two and the rest of Royal Oaks and Royal Oak Offshores out there.
Posts tagged #Royal Oak 15300
Insider: Understanding the Different Types of Audemars Piguet Tapisseries and How They're Done
We often run into watch collectors that frequently mistaken one type of Audemars Piguet tapisserie for another. Even though we have explained this topic in the past, we decided to to a revised post with more images and further explanation on the matter. While many know their names, few know the real difference between them. Additionally, many don't know how these dials are done and which models feature a stamped dial plate versus a rose engine machines one. The iconic 'Clous de Paris' guilloché pattern on the Royal Oak dials and Royal Oak Offshores is one of the most unmistakable elements of their design.
Macros: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore Dials. The Different Types of Tapisseries.
We often run into watchlifestylers that are curious about the differences between the different types of 'tapisseries' on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore dials. While many know their names, few know the difference between them. Now, how does Audemars Piguet create these iconic 'Clous de Paris' guilloché pattern dials?
The brass dial is engraved by a burin —a precision metalwork chisel— that reproduces the motif on a disc attached to the machine, like a pantograph. A pointer rotates across the disc from the periphery to the center. The system is combined with a tool that forms the little lozenges between the pyramidal squares and takes between 20 and 50 minutes, depending on the dial's diameter. It's a delicate operation. A mere skip is all it takes to damage the piece as the slightest impact is as visible as dust on a mirror. Here's a video courtesy of Audemars Piguet showing the work to create one of these iconic dials.
Macros: Audemars Piguet Calibre 3120. One of the Greatest Movements Ever Made.
The Audemars Piguet calibre 3120 is now considered one of the greatest automatic movements ever made. Fitted on several models across the Royal Oak collection— including the discontinued ref. 15300, the recently launched ref. 15400 and the Royal Oak Offshore Diver amongst others—, calibre 3120 is a work of art and truly one of the nicest movements you can find out there. Not to mention that is also extremely accurate.
This beautiful and precise calibre, is fully decorated with Côtes de Genève on all bridges and comes with a stunning bi-directional 22k gold rotor. The rotor features the coats of arms for the Audemars and Piguet families, all done with immaculate attention to detail.
Insider: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15300ST. As Good as it Gets.
We have reviewed, owned and perused several Royal Oaks ref. 5402 "Jumbo". As you know, the ref. 5402 "Jumbo" was the first Royal Oak to be launched in 1972 fitted with an ultra-thin calibre 2121 —a masterpiece of 'haute horlogerie'— that changed the world of sports luxury watches forever.
Royal Oak purists tend to never considered buying a Royal Oak ref. 15300 as they feel they are betraying their true love for the ref. 5402 "Jumbo". However, we feel that the ref. 15300 is pure perfection and a robust Royal Oak with a quick-set calendar feature that makes it very desirable. The ref. 15300 is fitted with calibre 3120 which is called by some AP enthusiasts as "one of the greatest automatic movements ever made".
The case diameter is 39mm like on the "Jumbo", however, the ref. 15300 is thicker —than its predecessor— at 9.4mm. The watch wears a little bit smaller than the "Jumbo" as the proportions of the case and bezel are different, regardless that the case size is the same.
This watch just like any other Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is fitted with a beautiful solid link integrated bracelet. The bracelet has the unmistakeable AP grainy brushed finish with some polished areas at the end of the links and around the top and bottom of the center links. The bracelet is very solid and comfortable, however, the clasp is not my favorite part of this bracelet. The clasp is a double push button double folding clasp with AP shape blades on both ends of the interior of the clasp. We personally prefer the old school ref. 5402 blade clasp with fliplock, that happens to feel more sturdy and more comfortable.
The dial in this watch is a "Grande Tapisserie" (waffle pattern) in deep blue with white fonts. Depending on lighting conditions, it will almost look charcoal gray. The dial comes with white gold applied baton hour-markers and white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating. The luminova is not very powerful and since the coated area in the hands and markers is very thin you don't get much brightness. Additionally, the luminova will wear out within a few hours after you go to bed. Not a big deal, just wanted to documented for those 'luminova lovers'. The calendar wheel is 'off-white' almost a very light ivory with all the numbers in the newer AP font with serifs opposed to the old school font in the 5402 and the 15202.
The movement is just gorgeous and quite accurate. This one has only lost 3 to 4 seconds a day —which is still under COSC specs— during the first week of daily wear.
Since this watch comes with a sapphire crystal case back you can admire the calibre 3120 through it. It's just gorgeous! The movement thickness with module is 4.26mm and a total diameter of 11¾ lignes. Frequency of balance wheel 3,00 (=21’600 alternances/hour) Hz, Bi-directional automatic winding with a 22K gold monobloc rotor fully decorated with the crest of the Audemars and Piguet families, 40 jewels, 60-hour power reserve and 280 parts, which IMHO is pretty impressive!
The Royal Oak ref. 15300 is actually more comfortable than the original Jumbo ref. 5402 and a perfect watch that matches all types of
outfits—dressed down or suited up. Something else worth mentioning about the Royal Oak, is that
is very understated and most of the time it flies under the radar unless you are near a serious watch lifestyler. Another clear advantage of the ref. 15300 over the ref. 5402 or the ref. 15202, is the quick-set calendar feature fitted on calibre 3120.
For those of you that always wonder whether the Royal Oak is suited for water activites, we can confidently say that there is nothing classier than relaxing in the pool with a Royal Oak and Vilebrequins.
Experience: Hermès Ties. The Blues.
When it comes to ties we know there's only one name and it's Hermès. Its silk, its designs and patterns, the shape and length of their ties and the way they look when knotted, is just unmistakeable. One can spot an Hermès tie half a block away. Just as one that knows can spot a Royal Oak in the distance.
Established in 1837, Hermès has specialized in silk, saddles, leather, accessories, parfums, ceramic and prêt-à-porter with the highest quality and outstanding craftsmanship. Its logo, since the 1950's has had a carriage pulled by a horse.
Born in Germany, Thierry Hermès was the son of a Frenchman. Thierry and his family relocated to France in 1828 and in 1837, Thierry Hermès established Hermès as a harness workshop dedicated to serving noblemen in Paris. He created some of the finest wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade. Thierry's son, Charles-Émile Hermès took over management in 1880 and established the well known shop at 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains today and where the new leader introduced saddlery and retail sales.
One of the many qualities of an Hermès tie is its timeless design, just like that of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Both have stood the test of time and today a 40 year old Hermès tie looks as good and as classic as a Royal Oak. For more info click here.
Experience: Château Lafite Rothschild 1962. One of the Most Amazing Wines in the World.
Without a doubt one of the finest and most complex wines in the world. This Bordeaux wine from the Haute-Medoc region and bottled in Pauillac, France is a superb combination of body, taste and aromas only possible in a wine of this caliber and pedigree. Domaines Baron Rothschild dates back to 1234. Even though the property was not in the Bordeaux region at the time, it is thought that vines were already at the estate owned by Gombaud de Lafite the original owner of the Château were this wine comes from. Interesting enough the Château still maintains the name of that original owner. While vines were probably in existence at Lafite, it was not until around 1680, that the majority of the vineyards of what we know today as Lafite Rothschild were created. In the 17th century, the property of Château Lafite was purchased by the Ségur family. It is known that Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the United States liked Château Lafite Rothschild so much that he purchased multiple cases of the wine.
The complexity and power of this wine is one that can only be understood and experienced when having the honor and pleasure of uncorking one and sipping it.
The notes are high on tannins, red cherries and wild mushrooms on the palate and oak and vergamot on the nose.
Price range between $1,000 and $1,500 per bottle. However, be very careful as to who you buy from. We know from very good sources that some of the bottles in this vintage might have already turned into vinegar due to lack of proper wine storing.
For more info on this wine click here.
