Today May 10th, 2022 Gérald Genta’s very own Royal Oak broke the record set by the Royal Oak ref. 5402 with case No. 2, that sold for CHF 1,058,500 —approx $1,060,000 USD— at the Phillips Royal Oak 50th Sale this past weekend . Genta’s very own Royal Oak ref. 5402ST, a C-series stainless steel watch with an 18K yellow gold bezel bearing case number 1556 hammered at CHF 2,107,000 Swiss Francs —approx $2,170,000 USD— at the Sotheby’s Important Watches Auction in Geneva.
From the Editor: Happy 50th AP Royal Oak. Up Close and Personal with Genta's Personal Watch.
Today April 15th, 2022 is the official birthday of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. There’s no better way to celebrate the most iconic sports watch —that changed the watch industry— than by posting some of the pictures I recently took of Gérald Genta’s very own Royal Oak. While I was in Geneva for Watches & Wonders 2022, I was lucky to run into Genta’s Royal Oak at a somewhat secluded and seemingly insignificant small exhibition that almost all other media outlets missed.
Watch Auctions: Gérald Genta's Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Original Prototype Drawing Sells for $610,000 USD
Today, the Gérald Genta: Icon of Time Sale in Geneva came to an end, and the original prototype design by Genta of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak from 1972 with accompanying NFT—Lot 1— sold for CHF 564,500 Swiss Francs plus buyer’s fees —approximately $610,000 USD. Wonder who the lucky winner was. Our guess is that it was probably Audemars Piguet directly. We will investigate and try to get you more details.
Watch Auctions: Bid on Gérald Genta's Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Original Prototype Drawing Already at CHF 40,000
At the end of December 2021 we brought you the news that Gerald Genta’s very own Royal Oak would be offered for sale at Sotheby’s through three dedicated ‘Gérald Genta: Icon of Time’ auctions starting February 2022. Along with his very own Royal Oak, approximately 30 original Royal Oak design drawings will be offered in each of the sales.
From the Editor: Gérald Genta's Very Own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 5402 and Original Drawings Up For Sale
The grail of all Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbos ever produced is for sure Gerald Genta’s very own Royal Oak. A very unique stainless steel AP Royal Oak Jumbo ref. 5402ST fitted with a yellow gold bezel never intended to become a two-tone Royal Oak. Since Genta was a genius, wearing such a unique-looking watch was yet another proof of his character and incredible personality, and way of thinking.
Insider: Bulgari Octo. Evoking Gerald Genta.
The new Bulgari Octo launched back in 2012 is clearly a revamped design of the Octo Bi-Retro and Quadri-Retro predecessors. The revamped design is an improvement to the famous Gerald Genta Octo design, with a somewhat thinner, simpler case with finer lines. The result, a stunning watch in every way.
Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 and acquired by LVMH Group in 2011. While it's more famously known for their jewelry creations, its watchmaking credentials were very well established by the famous Bulgari-Bulgari collection. Subsequently, Bulgari acquired Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta brands in 2000 and along with them, their manufacturing facilities at Saigenlegier, La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux. Today, Bulgari relies on their in-house movements to continue to establish their watchmaking credentials.
The Octo has a case diameter of 41.5 mm, a thickness of 10.55 mm and it's fitted with a gorgeous black alligator strap and deployment buckle. The Octo derived from the Italian word 'Otto'—meaning eight— was named this way after the octagonal facets of one of the layers in its case that are clearly visible from the side and also in-between the crystal and the dial. The exquisitely designed casing is assembled by hand with a multilayer complex structure of octagons, hexagons, circles, squares and rectangles. There are a total of 110 facets just on the casing alone with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel has such an exquisite brushed finish that it almost resembles the finish of white gold rather than stainless steel.
The dial is a black lacquered dial with applied polished large batons and Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock. The result is a watch that reflects and interacts with light like we have never seen before. No wonder, both laymen watch enthusiasts and seasoned watch collectors have been singing the praises of this watch since its launch. The design is very elegant with phenomenal attention to detail. The beating heart of the Octo is the Bulgari in-house caliber BVL193 with a 50-hour power reserve. The beautiful movement can be seen and enjoyed via the display case back.
Our watchlifestyler and friend Mr. B, mentions that the watch is very comfortable to wear, and one of his most comfortable watches. The black alligator strap is of excellent quality, supple, well made and well stitched; that is no surprise, as Bulgari is also famous for its well crafted leather goods. What is pleasantly surprising, is that the leather comes in a naturally bent shape so that it wraps around the wrist right out of the box with none of the stiffness that commonly comes with brand new leather straps—no break-in period here. The deployment buckle is also of very high quality and the buckle snaps into position with a satisfyingly loud clicking sound. Some of the drawbacks are the lack of luminous material on hands and markers, size of date aperture and watch packaging. With a depth rating of a 100m, only the careless would take this beautiful alligator strap for a swim.
The Octo has a very affordable price for what you get, a perfectly crafted and very comfortable timepiece. Only time will tell if in the far future, if it will be similarly admired as some of the other Genta's creations. This watch is also available in rose gold. Sticker Price for the stainless steel model in this review: $9,500.
For more info on this watch click here.
Insider: Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711. A Genta Icon.
Another one of Gerald Genta's iconic creations. The Patek Philippe Nautilus was conceived using the universal shape of a porthole found on most maritime vessels and released just four years after the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was launched in 1972.
Just like on the rest of Genta's creations, the alternating brushed and polished areas on the bezel as well as the flat top cases are part of the design. Patek Philippe commissioned monsieur Genta to come up with a design that would compete with the Royal Oak and that would stand the test of time. The end result, the iconic Nautilus. With its unmistakeable black-blue dial this timepiece was released in 1976 as ref. 3700/1 in stainless steel and with the name Nautilus 'Jumbo' due to its large—40mm— case diameter at the time. Since then, the Nautilus has established itself as a classic, elegant sports watch from one of the top Haute Horlogerie houses.
The black-blue dial on the Nautilus often looks either chocolate brown or black depending on the lighting conditions. This watch comes with a 45-hour power reserve thanks to its self-winding caliber 324 S C, screw-down crown, sapphire crystal case back and a stainless steel bracelet. The watch is very comfortable and the bracelet somewhat light for our taste. The watch has a strong presence on the wrist and extremely accurate timekeeping with +1 seconds a day.
The Nautilus is definitely a piece that needs to be part of any collection looking to honor monsieur Genta's creations or any power collection. Now, if you already own a Royal Oak, an IWC Ingenieur SL and a Vacheron Constantin Overseas, it is very likely that you will end up adding a Nautilus to complete your poker of aces. Probably in due time and time is already ticking.
Sticker Price $29,800. For more info on this watch click here.