Posts tagged #Chronode

Insider: MB&F Horological Machine No.5 in Red Gold. A Fascinating Retro-Futuristic Timepiece in a 66-Piece Limited Edition.

Last month while we were visiting the M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva, we decided to work on this special review with live pictures of the fascinating MB&F Horological Machine No.5 in red gold. After the original Horological Machine N.5 5 in zirconium was presented in 2012, most would wonder why would MB&F craft the HM5 in a limited edition of 66 pieces in red gold. Well, because they thought it would look damn beautiful and they were damn right. Perusing this watch in the flesh was an exhilarating experience and a tremendous joy.

This watch inspired by iconic watches from the 70s —with a similar case shape— like the Girard-Perregaux Casquette LED, the Amida Digitrend Jump Hour and even the Bulova Computron Driver, comes full of surprises.

Fitted with an 18K Red gold and titanium case —with internal water resistant titanium engine container— measuring 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm, a slide button to open/close its back louvers and exhaust ports to drain water, the HM5 RT is something out of this world and conceived in the most futuristic and flawless way possible.

Perhaps one of the most interesting features of this fascinating timepiece is the way the hour and minutes are shown via a display that faces the front of the watch, but where the time is indicated with bi-directional jumping hours that are inverted, reflected at a 90° angle and magnified at a 20%. The smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides and magnification provides excellent readability in any angle. Looking at this watch directly from the front, definitely brings memories of WALL-E the romantic robot from Pixar's science fiction animated movie with the same name.

HM5 RT has a mechanical movement, but its inspired by an era when quartz was king. The rear louvers on super cars block light, but on the HM5 RT they let light in. Befitting its automotive heritage, HM5 RT has exhaust pipes, but they drain water. The gold endowing the HM5 RT case with such a rich lustrous glow was found on earth, but was actually created billions of years ago in deep space. The louvers are angled and the back of the watch appears as if it was the rear window of the iconic DeTomaso Mangusta but fitted with louvers. Frankly, a watch doesn't get any sexier than this.

Via the display case back of the Horological Machine No. 5 —HM5 RT— one can see the amazing beating heart inside this timepieces. The display case back also reveals the surprise of an inner case. Like a Russian Matryoshka doll, peeling away one layer reveals a second case in titanium/zirconium. The reason for housing the movement in an inner container is for water resistance. Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and the team at Chronode developed the HM5 movement. The automatic calibre is composed of 224 parts, 30 jewels, a battle-axe 22K gold ‘mystery ’ rotor and is fully hand-finished. Opposed to what one would think, the discs with the hours and minuted are actually placed in horizontal position but displayed vertically thanks to the reflection and magnification of a sapphire crystal optical prism. It may appear simple, but it’s very complicated. Jumping hours are bi-directional, enabling the time to be easily set both forwards and backwards —via the crown located at the back of the watch or what would be considered the 12 o'clock position on a conventional watch. The two mineral glass disks of the hours and minutes are supported by a flat wide bridge and the disks overlap to maximize their diameter and space for large legible numerals.

To round out the amazing design of the MB&F Horological Machine No. 5 in Red Gold, the watch is fitted with a black rubber strap with pin buckle. The strap features oval perforations as well as very thin ridges to match the ridges on the back of the case and the oval display window on the front. Although the rubber on the strap is very malleable and comfortable, the ridged texture on it is a magnet for collecting dust and lint.

On the wrist, be prepared to wear a very unconventional watch with a funky but very comfortable fit. Once you strap this timepiece to your wrist, be prepared to be transported back to the future. While the design of the case and the time display window are very reminiscent of those 70s iconic watches, the craftsmanship, finish and overall design of this watch is definitely years ahead of our time. Without a doubt, this is another singular and fascinating creation from MB&F.

Sticker Price $82,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here.

Posted on March 3, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under MB&F and tagged MB&F Horological Machine No.5 RT MB&F HM5RT Red Gold MB&F HM5 RT Limited Edition 66 Pieces Jean Francois Mojon Chronode Vincent Boucard 2014.

Insider: Presenting the New MB&F LM1 Legacy Machine No. 1 Xia Hang. Live Pictures and Pricing.

After working for nearly 45 hours without a break —all at peak performance— it’s been a long tiring day and energy levels are low. While it was relatively easy to sit up straight at the start of the day, fatigue has now set in, back languidly bends, head hits lap. ‘Mr. Up’ has become ‘Mr. Down’. But before Mr. Down shuts off completely, an invigorating influx of energy lifts his head, straightens his back and brightens his spirits. Mr. Up has been brought back to life!
Welcome to the world of Legacy Machine Number One Xia Hang. Welcome to the world of Mr. Up and Mr. Down, a collaboration between MB&F and Chinese artist Xia Hang.

Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang —LM1 Xia Hang— retains all of the 19th century pocket watch-inspired features of the original LM1, including the majestically suspended slowly oscillating balance wheel and dual time indications that can be set completely independently, but with a twist: the power reserve is indicated by a miniature, highly-polished aluminum man, designed by talented Chinese sculptor, Xia Hang. The man sits up straight when the movement is fully wound —Mr. Up— and gradually slumps over as the power diminishes —Mr. Down. “I call these little men ‘comma men’, and their distinctive shape comes from a selection of art I created from 2005 to 2008. Commas do exist in Chinese writing and for me the ‘comma man’ represents a chubby boy.” says artist Xia Hang.

Xia Hang and MB&F share much in common. While MB&F create serious works of time-telling kinetic art, they don’t take themselves too seriously. Similarly, Xia Hang believes the world of art is often too serious; he likes it to be playful, and wants his sculptures to entertain and make people smile. And just like MB&F, Hang calls his kinetic sculptures ‘machines’. “I was first introduced to Xia Hang a few years ago by a Chinese art collector friend, and visited him on the outskirts of Beijing in his workshop. I was like a child in a toy factory!” says Maximilian Büsser. The in-house movement powering LM1 Xia Hang bears testimony to the enormous talent of its creators. Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode developed the LM1 calibre, which features the world’s first vertical power reserve and allows completely independent setting —including minutes— of both time displays. Acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen was responsible for the aesthetic design and for strictly ensuring the utmost respect for tradition and finish. No easy task with such an unconventional suspended-balance design from which to begin. A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate —dial side— subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the twin white dials, floating balance or vertical power reserve. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement where Kari Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity in both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide space between the bridges and between the perimeter of the bridges and the case. On the back of the movement, 23 over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high-grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear/increasing longevity by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil.

The MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 was conceived when Maximilian Büsser started fantasizing: “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s, the first wristwatches appeared and I would've wanted to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there would have been no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I would have had pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine N°1 was my answer.” Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang is a limited edition of 12 pieces in red gold and 12 pieces in white gold. Each Machine is accompanied by a pair of polished stainless steel large-scale sculptures —approximately 15cm / 6" high— of Mr. Up and Mr. Down signed by Xia Hang. “Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang is the first time and hopefully not the last) that there has been a cross-pollination between an MB&F M.A.D. Gallery artist —Xia Hang— and a MB&F watch —LM1. In curating these amazing artists at our M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva, it opens a world of possibilities in possible co-creations with MB&F’s Machines”, mentions Maximilian Büsser.

Legacy Machine No. 1 LM1’s ingenious three-dimensional movement was specifically developed for MB&F from Maximilian Büsser’s sketches by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode in Le Locle, Switzerland. The balance wheel and spring are at the very heart of any mechanical watch movement and are responsible for regulating timekeeping accuracy. Büsser has long been fascinated by the large, slowly oscillating —18,000vph compared with the 28,800vph common today— balance wheels of antique pocket watches, so it was no surprise this was his starting point from which to let his imagination roam free. What was surprising though is just how radically he reinterpreted tradition by relocating the balance wheel from its more usual position hidden at the back of the movement to the top, majestically floating above the movement… even floating above the dials. This manual wound movement provides a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound and is composed of 274 parts.

While the location of Legacy Machine N°1’s regulating organ may be considered avant-garde, ‘tradition’ is upheld by the large 14 mm diameter balance wheel with regulating screws specifically developed for MB&F, balance spring with Breguet overcoil and mobile stud holder. Another very special feature of the LM1 movement is the ability to set the two time zones completely independently. The vast majority of dual time zone movements only allow the hours to be independently adjusted, while a rare few offer setting to the half hour. Legacy Machine N°1 allows both hours and minutes of each dial to be set to whatever time the user wishes. The vertical power reserve indicator on LM1 Xia Hang is driven by an ultra-flat differential with ceramic bearings, allowing for a slimmer complication and a more robust and longer-wearing mechanism.

LM1’s power reserve complication was modified to enable Xia Hang’s comma man to seamlessly transition from slumping right over when power is low to sitting up straight at full wind. Xia Hang first created full-size sculptures, which MB&F then scaled down to a height of just 4mm —1/8”— and then developed the articulation required. The head, shoulders, back and chest of ‘Mr. Up’ —as the power reserve indicator in known when wound—, all bend down —thanks to a concealed hinge— towards the horizontal as he becomes tired and Mr. Up becomes Mr. Down. The tiny micro-mechanical sculpture is crafted from aluminum to minimize energy requirements. A very high polish ensures that the little man both catches the light and the eye, as well as remaining faithful to Xia Hang’s original conception.

The rate-keeping of the twin dials is controlled by the same regulator —balance and escapement— so that once set, the two times stay perfectly synchronized with each other. Both the hours and minutes on both dials can be set to any time desired via their respective crowns. Complementing the three-dimensionality of the balance floating in space, the dual white dials with their bright blue gold hands float above the top of the movement. The dials are gently domed with a translucent, high-gloss luster created using a “laque tendue” process in which multiple layers of lacquer are applied and heated, causing them to stretch over the surface of the dials. To ensure aesthetic purity of the dials and their traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive used screws. A fine golden perimeter circumscribing each dial elegantly reinforces their timeless classicism.

The watches are fitted with elegant hand-stitched alligator straps made by renowned Parisian leather good and strap maker Camille Fournet. The 18K red gold model features a dark brown strap while the 18K white gold version features a black one. The straps round up the elegance and refinement of this new timepiece with their gold pin buckles matching the case and their exceptional finishing.

Just as expected from a name like MB&F, the finishing on the robust 18K white or 18K red gold cases —measuring 44 mm in diameter— is exceptional and clearly shows the signs of the superb craftsmanship and the attention to detail that MB&F is known for. The cases are very solid and quite thick measuring 16 mm in thickness with an amazing satin-brushed finish and the most beautiful chamfers at the lugs.

On the wrist, prepare to have one of the most amazing horological creations and get ready to wow anyone asking you for the time. Every time you look at Mr. Up or Mr. Down, it will be a nice reminder of why MB&F is one of the most unique watch companies and why their watches are true horological machines and not just timepieces.

Sticker Price $107,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here and for Xia Hang here.

Technical Specifications

Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François Mojon /Chronode with aesthetics finishes specified by Kari Voutilainen. Manual winding with single mainspring barrel, power reserve indicator with a little man designed by Chinese artist Xia Hang and a power reserve of 45 hours while beating at a frequency of 18,000 vph.

Functions:
Hours and minutes; completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials;
unique vertical power reserve indicated by a highly-polished little man in aluminum. Left crown at 8 o’clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 4 o’clock for setting time of right dial and winding.

Case:
Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold
Dimensions: 44mm wide x 16mm high
Number of components: 65

Sapphire Crystals:
High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides.

Posted on February 27, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under MB&F and tagged MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1 Xia Hang Xia Hang Beijing Maximilian Büsser & Friends Jean Francois Mojon Chronode Kari Voutilainen Camille Fournet 2014.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Breva Genève Unveils the Génie 02 Terre. Full Presentation of the Watch in Geneva Next Week.

Following the success and ground breaking technology behind the Génie 01 with barometer, next week in Geneva —taking advantage of the fact that the international press will gather at the SIHH 2014—, Breva Genève will be presenting the new addition to their collection, the Breva Génie 02 Terre.

This new watch combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance mechanical altimeter. The Génie 02 Terre is a limited edition of 55 pieces in titanium G5 and is available with either meter or feet calibrations on the altimeter.

The superbly finished proprietary movement, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display case back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. Génie 02 Terre is 100% Swiss-made, from inception to realization.

The dial side is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters or feet. Arching around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters —16,400 feet—, with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator shows when the air valve is open or closed —it must be open to indicate the altitude—, below which is the 65-hour power reserve indicator. In pride of place at the bottom of the dial, the top of one of the two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure —from which the altitude is derived— is visible, with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 times the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.

Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust and operate the functions of Génie 02:

a. 9 o'clock: Two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.

b. 2 o'clock: A screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affect altitude readings.

c. 4 o'clock: Screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in —for altitude function. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from any air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a white indicator marked 'SEALED' warns when valve is locked.

Turning the Génie 02 Terre over, the complexity of the beautifully finished 415-component movement can be more fully appreciated. The movement is framed by the names of prestigious ski resorts − Aspen, Vail, Las Lenas, Gstaad, St Moritz, Zermatt, Courchevel, Cortina, Kitzbuhel, and Lech − along with their altitudes, engraved around the perimeter of the case back. When winding the movement you can see the rotation of the cap of the mainspring barrel.

We will be reporting from Geneva all next week to bring you all the news from the SIHH 2014 and live images of this amazing timepiece.

For more info on Breva Genève click here.

Posted on January 14, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Baselworld, Breva and tagged Breva Geneve Genie 02 Terre Chronode Jean-Francois Mojon SIHH 2014.

News: MB&F Unveils the Horological Machine No.5 RT in Red Gold. A New Limited Edition of Only 66 Pieces.

Press Release

Horological Machine No.5 is back 'On the Road Again', with a new 'RT' limited edition in red gold. After the original HM5 in zirconium presented in 2012, most would wonder why is the manufacture crafting another 66 pieces in red gold? Well, gold is highly resistant to corrosion; it conducts heat or electricity and reflects infrared radiation. Gold is highly malleable: a single gram can be beaten into a sheet of 1 micron. Gold is precious: all the gold ever mined in human history would fit in a cube of just 21 meters on each side. But let's get to the point: the real reason why MB&F is crafting this edition in red gold is because they think it looks damn beautiful!

HM5 RT is full of surprises: Hour and minute displays look straightforward, but they are bi-directional jumping hours with indications inverted, reflected 90° and magnified 20%. HM5 RT has a futuristic case design, but it’s from the 1970s. HM5 RT has a mechanical movement, but inspired by an era when quartz was King. The rear louvers on super cars block light, but on HM5 RT they let light in. Befitting its automotive heritage, HM5 RT has exhaust pipes, but they drain water. The gold endowing the HM5 RT case with such a rich lustrous glow was found on earth, but was actually created billions of years ago in deep space.

While we might still be waiting for flying cars, with the HM5 RT you can put a high-tech golden super car on your wrist! As with any super car, the best often lies under the hood and ‘lifting the hood’ of the HM5 RT case reveals a surprise: an inner case! Like a Russian Matryoshka doll, peeling away one layer reveals a second case in titanium. The reason for housing the Engine in an inner container is for water resistance. Those super car louvers let in water as well as light —the reason for those dual exhaust ports— so to protect the high-performance Engine from moisture as well as shocks, it is housed in its own titanium shell. This inner case is similar to the rigid chassis of a car on which the external coachwork/body is attached. Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Boucard and the team at Chronode developed the HM5 Engine. It may appear simple, but it’s complicated! Jumping hours are bi-directional, enabling the time to be easily set both forwards and backwards. The two mineral glass disks of the hours and minutes are supported by a flat wide bridge. The disks overlap to maximize their diameter and space for large legible numerals. Turning HM5 RT over reveals the Engine, with its 22k gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ winding rotor, fast oscillating balance and stunning hand-finished bridges, through a sapphire crystal display back that is set into the water resistant container.

Horological Machine No. 5 RT retains all the key features of the HM5: a hand-finished automatic movement with bi-directional jumping hours; a vertical time display reflected and magnified by a sapphire crystal optical prism; 'light convector' flaps which allow to charge the superluminova hour and minute discs and to compensate for the higher weight of the external red gold case, they've modified the inner protective compartment from stainless steel to titanium. While HM5 RT has a generously sized 51.5mm x 49mm case and gold is known for its weight as much as its beauty, thanks to the discrete use of ultra-light titanium, HM5 RT is a very comfortable machine to wear.

Technical Specifications

ENGINE

Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent Boucard of Chronode. Powered by a Sowind gear train. Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery ’ automatic winding rotor.

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz

Number of components: 224

Number of jewels: 30

Engine housed in a water resistant, titanium inner container

FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS

Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism with integrated magnifying lens. Slide to open/close louvers on case top.

CASE

18K Red gold and titanium with internal water resistant titanium engine container. Slide button to open/close louvers. Exhaust ports to drain water.

Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm

Number of components: 80

Water resistance of engine container: 30 meters

SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS

Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification. Sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.

STRAP & BUCKLE

Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang buckle.

Sticker Price $82,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here.