Back in the 1990s, almost five years after I became the serious watch collector that I am today, I first heard the term ‘The Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’. This term has been used for decades in order to refer to the three most important luxury watch brands in the world. But what sets the brands conforming the holy trinity of watchmaking apart from other brands? Well, they all three hold unparalleled prestige, uninterrupted history, exclusivity, and serious accolades in the horological world.
While many would like to challenge this term and others are often asking why Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, or Rolex were never included —despite their amazing expertise, history and amazing watches—, I can always just come up with a new term for the trinity and call it the ‘Poker of Aces of Watchmaking’. That way, everyone is pleased and Jaeger-LeCoultre gets included in the equation. Or perhaps, we just use more poker lingo and create the term ‘Full House of Watchmaking’, summing up the current holy trinity of watchmaking along with Breguet or JLC, and topped off with Rolex.
However, in my book, I just can’t do that. I really wouldn’t feel it would be fair to have a different type of mix for this special trifecta. Now, objectively, I would’ve loved to have Jaeger-LeCoultre somewhere in the mix —as they meet all the criteria— but since only three can be up there in the podium, it is the way it is and that’s all that it is. Ultimately, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin have done so much over the centuries that it is impossible to conceive ‘The Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’ with other brands.
Even though today the number of Swiss watch brands exceeds a hundred and there are some seriously amazing independent watch brands out there like F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey, Urwerk, or MB&F, there is a magical element that century-old brands have and at least for me, Vacheron, Patek, and AP deserve to continue to be called the ‘The Holy Trinity of Watchmaking’.
When it comes to my very own holy trinity of watchmaking, I’ve come to terms that you don’t have to exclusively have Gerald Genta designed watches across all three brands to have a perfect trio. And these three blue dial watches are without a doubt, three of my all-time favorite watches I’ve ever owned in almost 30 years as a watch collector. Besides its blue dials, they all have a few other things in common, they are all very scarce, extremely well made, quite versatile and references you don’t often see out there.
For those of you that know me on a personal level, it is not news to you that I like to put my own signature lingo to describe things. And in all justice, these three watches are what I like to call the caviar of watches or my holy trinity of watchmaking. Just like caviar is a form of fish roe but not all fish roe can be called caviar, a similar rule applies to watches. Therefore, these three brands and watches are comparable to the finest Beluga, Kaluga, and Ossetra caviar. All very hard to find, super exclusive, and not cheap at all.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Blue Dial
Vacheron Constantin is the oldest watch brand in the world, established in 1755. It’s been around for more than 260 years with an uninterrupted watchmaking trajectory and they also hold the title for making the most complicated watch ever in the history of watchmaking, I’m talking about the very impressive Calibre 57260.
If you ask me why I love Vacheron Constantin and particularly the Overseas Dual Time it is not hard to answer. First of all, Vacheron Constantin is very understated and the Overseas even more. The Overseas Dual Time ref. 7900 also marks the third and latest generation of a watch I’ve always loved. Ever since its predecessor the 222 —with similar design cues— was launched as a 37 mm watch designed by Jorg Hysek Sr. in 1977 to celebrate the 222nd anniversary of the manufacture and to compete against the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Overseas has followed his lineage. Add to the mix the ability to switch straps or to a bracelet in seconds, and you have a very versatile watch that also happens to keep track of time in two time zones. This is for sure my Kaluga caviar right after my Beluga, very hard to find and one of the finest out there.
Sticker Price $22,900 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G
Then, you have Patek Philippe with over 180 years of history, and the brand responsible for the legendary Henry Graves Jr. Super Complication. While I have a love and hate relationship —I’ll explain further— with my Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G, this is a great Patek to include in the holy trinity of watchmaking and a perfect Ossetra caviar with an unusual 42 mm case size and a very useful complication.
While I don’t wear this watch too often because I hate how the pushers on the left caseband dig too much onto my arm and the strap is relatively narrow, I do love the fact that this is not your typical Patek Philippe and it’s big case wise. The Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524G is a polarizing watch that was instantly hated by most watch journalists during its launch, but a watch that I wanted to own the instant I perused it Baselworld.
And for those of you that still say that Patek never produced any Pilot’s watches, here’s our visit to the Patek Philippe Museum for you to see for yourself. We’ll just have to wait and see how pricing evolves when and if this watch ever gets discontinued by Patek Philippe.
Sticker Price $49, 560 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 44 Platinum ref. 26401PO
Audemars Piguet was established in 1875 and the launch of the Royal Oak in 1972 changed the watch industry forever. While it saved the company from possible bankruptcy the Royal Oak with its porthole-like design it was the very first luxury sports watch to be offered in stainless steel at the price of gold. Then in 1993 the Royal Oak Offshore was released as a bolder and bigger Royal Oak watch for those that wanted something beefier.
The AP Royal Oak Offshore 44 was originally introduced in 2011 by Audemars Piguet with a 44 mm diameter case and a whole new design under ref. 26400. Then in 2014, AP released the 44 mm Royal Oak Offshore in platinum under reference 26401PO. At that time, I could only dream of owning one as a major grail watch.
Today, after six months of ownership, I couldn’t be happier. The most perfect watch for my daily adventures and a watch that is very me. Little did I know that this watch would turn into my favorite AP daily wearer and what would be my Beluga caviar. Some of the things that make me love this watch include the fact that it is a very understated piece, no one —unless you really know AP— knows it’s made of platinum, the versatility to go from a dressy look with its blue alligator strap to a pool summer-ready rubber strap is perfect and its blue dial is extremely sexy. Not to mention this is now a discontinued piece of which no more than probably 30 watches were ever produced.
Last Known Sticker Price $69,200 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
Have a Taste of Caviar with Me
Now, if caviar can only come from sturgeon fish and the best caviar comes from the Caspian Sea when it comes to watches, my holy trinity of watchmaking can only include brands that are Swiss. And my caviar of watches can only come from those brands that have drastically changed the course of watchmaking one way or another with a very rich history and unparalleled accolades. While I admire and think very highly of brands like A. Lange & Söhne or Grand Seiko, firstly they are not Swiss, secondly, they don’t have the history. And just like with a caviar tasting, when it comes to the holy trinity of watchmaking always look for the finest, the scarcest, and the one that really suits your palate.
Next time you do a caviar tasting, think of these three watches, my love for blue dials and my holy trinity of watchmaking.
