Bianchet is a relatively new Swiss brand —only five years old after presenting its first prototype in 2019 at Baselworld— renowned for its prestigious tourbillon timepieces that won’t break the bank. The new B 1.618 Grande Date Sapphire Edition is the greatest and latest from them and is a timepiece that redefines transparency and elegance in haute horlogerie. Unveiled last month at Geneva Watch Days, this is now one of our favorite sapphire case watches out there.
Sapphire crystal watch cases are a hallmark of luxury and durability in the world of horology. Made from synthetic sapphire, these crystals are renowned for their exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, ranking just below the diamond on the Mohs scale. This makes them an ideal choice, as they can withstand the rigors of daily wear while maintaining clarity and brilliance, unlike metal cases. Sapphire crystal-cased watches are always better when seen in person and there’s no better way to learn about them than to read a review accompanied by live pictures instead of press images or renderings. While perusing a watch in person is the ideal scenario, when that is not possible, our powerful images will tell the story and depict the watch as close to what it looks like in real life.
Sapphire crystal is created through a process called the Verneuil method or the Czochralski process, where aluminum oxide is passed through a flame, melted down, and then cooled to form a hard crystal that is pulled individually. This synthetic production method allows for greater control over the material’s properties, ensuring consistent quality.
Things to Know About the Watch
The B 1.618 Grande Date Sapphire is equipped with a tonneau-shaped clear sapphire crystal case measuring 43 mm in width, 51 mm in height, and 14.35 mm in thickness. The clear sapphire crystal case allows for high visibility and minimal distortion. This enhances the overall aesthetics of the watch, letting the dial design and movement shine through.
The Grande Date Sapphire Edition reveals the intricate architecture of Bianchet's in-house caliber, making the movement the protagonist of the watch. The fluidity of the movement components within, all arranged according to the timeless principles of the Fibonacci spiral, and the golden ratio of 1.618 make this watch extremely sexy and beautiful. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock takes center stage with its ‘B-signed’ bridge. The Bianchet signed screw-down crown features a white rubber o-ring matching the white rubber strap on the watch.
Whether bathed in sunlight or illuminated indoors, the case embraces the light, allowing it to dance across the blackened surfaces of the movement and its meticulously hand-polished bevel edges, creating an interplay of shadows and reflections that is as captivating as it is elegant.
While sapphire crystal is resistant to scratches, it is not shatterproof. Hard impacts can still cause it to crack or chip, although such incidents are relatively rare. Additionally, it can be more expensive than mineral glass or acrylic, but many collectors and enthusiasts consider this investment worthwhile for the benefits it provides.
Bringing a fusion of elegance and resilience in watchmaking, the Bianchet B 1.618 Grande Date Sapphire also brings a double date-disc date aperture at 12 o’clock with sapphire crystal discs that can be seen at 10 and 2 o’clock respectively. The white transfers, white markers, and luminous inserts in the hands allow for great readability and perfect contrast against the blackened bridges and movement components.
The Movement
Turning the watch over reveals the in-house flying tourbillon open-worked manual wound movement —calibre B 1.618— crafted entirely in titanium and designed to appear as though it is levitating within the case, thanks to the ball-bearing mechanism that supports the tourbillon cage from the back. The tourbillon, renowned in the world of haute horlogerie for its ability to defy gravity, is a masterpiece of watchmaking precision and an everlasting symbol of elegance. This movement provides a power reserve of 90 hours when fully wound.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the Bianchet B 1.618 Grande Date Sapphire wears true to its size and quite light. The watch is delivered on a white vulcanized rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp. Limited to just 21 pieces, the Grande Date Sapphire Edition is carefully hand-finished and assembled at Bianchet's atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Each Bianchet watch is a masterpiece, reflecting the brand's commitment to traditional watchmaking techniques that go all the way from hand-finished movements to exquisite designs, and every detail is thoughtfully executed. Wearing a Bianchet watch means showcasing a piece of art on your wrist, where each glance reminds you of the intricate craftsmanship involved.
Sticker Price CHF 85,000 Swiss Francs —approx USD 100,000. For more info on Bianchet click here.
