The minimalistic all 18K white gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM ref. 26238BC.OO.2000BC.01 was released at the end of 2023 as the result of a collaboration between AP and designer Matthew Williams. At the time, four watches and a unique piece —a two-tone Royal Oak Chrono 41 mm ref. Ref. 26240SA.OO.1320SA.01— were released under the 1017 ALYX 9SM collaboration label including two Royal Oaks —one a 37 mm ref. 15550BA and the other a 41 mm Royal Oak Chrono ref. 26240BA— and two Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs —one in 18K yellow gold ref. 26238BA and the other in 18K white gold we have here.
This is the first and only live review of the AP Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM anywhere in the digital watch media space and we are proud of that.
Matthew Williams is a prominent American designer known for his forward-thinking approach to fashion, blending streetwear influences with high-end aesthetics. As the creative director of Givenchy for four years, Williams made a significant impact on the luxury fashion landscape, integrating innovative materials and technology into his designs.
Williams gained recognition through his own label, 1017 ALYX 9SM, where he pioneered personal expression in menswear with functional yet stylish designs. His ability to fuse art, culture, and fashion resonates with a diverse audience, establishing him as a key figure in contemporary design.
Things to Know About the Watch
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM ref. 26238BC.OO.2000BC.01 comes in a limited edition of 76 pieces in 18K white gold with a 42 mm case with crown and pushers also in 18K white gold. This is the first time that the 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph is equipped with pushers in 18K white gold.
The design of this limited edition is very minimalist and monochromatic with a dial that does not have the usual ‘tapisserie’ but instead a satin-brushed vertical finish. This is also the very first time that a 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore features a smooth dial.
One thing that we do like about this collaboration is that the 1017 ALYX 9SM branding has been subtly included in the design of the watch. Another subtle touch is the use of a different font for the calendar disc that takes inspiration from 1017 ALYX 9SM. This watch takes its inspiration from the Royal Oaks that were customized between MAD Paris and Matthew Williams the founder of 1017 ALYX 9SM.
The Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM is a striking blend of luxury and sportiness with the dial appearing as a blank canvas and the continuation of the vertical satin-brushed finish on the bezel of the watch. Minimalist and monochromatic design in watches emphasizes simplicity and elegance, stripping away unnecessary elements to create a clean aesthetic —not in this case as the chronograph becomes completely useless.
This design philosophy often features a limited color palette, typically relying on shades like black, white, gray, or metallic tones, allowing the timepieces to blend seamlessly with various styles and occasions. The focus on streamlined forms and uncluttered dials enhances readability while showcasing the craftsmanship of the watch itself. Such designs appeal to those who appreciate understated sophistication, embodying a timeless allure that resonates with both casual and formal settings. As a result, minimalist and monochromatic watches have become increasingly popular among enthusiasts seeking a versatile yet stylish accessory.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM in 18K white gold is paired with a matching bracelet with double folding deployant clasp and delivered with an additional black rubber strap. The watch benefits from the quick-release interchangeable strap system released by AP a few years ago.
The total weight of the watch is 325 grams which is quite heavy but slightly lighter than previous generations of the Royal Oak Offshore in gold like ‘The Pounder’ —first generation ref. 25721BA close to 410 grams in total weight— and ‘The Brick’ —second generation ref. 26170OR or 26470OR at 385 grams and 355 grams respectively.
The difference in weight comes from changes that AP has done to the case back as well as the overall thickness of the bracelet and the clasp to remove precious metal and increase profitability. As you can see the bracelet tapers heavily from the links attached to the case to the links closer to the clasp.
In all previous iterations of the Royal Oak Offshore, the bracelet had links with the same thickness throughout the whole bracelet regardless of the type of metal on the watch.
The Movement
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM is powered by the new in-house calibre 4404. This 40-jewel automatic movement that is composed of 433 parts provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
As a nod to Matthew Williams’ signature design elements in the buckles of 1017 ALYX 9SM, the oscillating weight shows its weight in grams —2.9 grams—, the 1017 ALYX 9SM branding and its torque —moment or moment force— in newton millimeters (Nmm) which is a decimal fraction of a newton meter. One newton meter is equal to the torque resulting from a force of one newton applied perpendicularly to a one-meter-long moment arm.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 1017 ALYX 9SM wears true to its size and is quite heavy. Perhaps not the most comfortable watch to wear daily and we can attest to this after wearing a ‘Brick’ for months as a daily wearer. However, over time the wearer gets used to its massive heavy weight construction.
While we love the minimalistic and monochromatic look of this watch, not having a minute track, a tachymetric scale flange, or even numbers for the chronograph registers, makes this watch completely useless as a proper timekeeper or as a functional stopwatch.
We guess that nowadays Audemars Piguet is all about making more money and releasing hype watches. Far more important to them than the timekeeping and functionality of their watches. As far as pricing, this watch is way too expensive considering that AP keeps removing precious metal from its bracelets but increasing the price every time they can.
Sticker Price USD 111,500. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.
