People are very cognizant of the design shakeup that took place in the 1970s and in the early 2000s. However, creative expressions of case form and dial design have occurred during every decade of our history. For the new Audemars Piguet [Re]master01, the brand is exploring the strength and elegance of one of their chronograph wristwatches from 1943 through the prism of 2020. This is not a historic reissue but a contemporary remastering of one of their past creations.
This Audemars Piguet’s newly crafted self-winding chronograph brings the aesthetics of the past into the present. Like a remastered recording from the 1940s, the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph reinterprets one of Audemars Piguet’s rare chronograph wristwatches with the Manufacture’s latest technology and a dial design increasing legibility for the present day. To put things in perspective, Audemars Piguet’s vintage chronograph wristwatches are among the rarest in the world with only 307 units made between the 1930s through the 1950s. During World War II (1939–1945), when pre-model 1533 was crafted, chronograph wristwatches accounted for just under one-tenth of the company’s total watch production. Only three stainless steel and gold chronograph wristwatches with the present case design were sold in 1943. The watch’s 36 mm diameter was quite large for the era when most chronograph wristwatches used to measure between 31 and 34 mm. Highly contemporary for its time, pre-model 1533 epitomizes Audemars Piguet’s relentless quest for technical mastery and artistic excellence.
By uniting mid-20th century design with contemporary horological technology, [Re]master01 speaks directly to the blend of heritage and forward-thinking which continues to infuse Audemars Piguet’s timepieces. Faithful to the original design language of pre-model 1533 from 1943, [Re]master01 features a 40 mm round case and lugs in stainless steel, enhanced by a bezel, olive-shaped pushers and chamfered crown in 18-carat pink gold. The teardrops lugs highlight the two-tone case’s harmonious curve, while the very thin bezel provides an unobstructed view on the dial’s detailed work. The case has been meticulously polished by hand.
This limited edition of 500 pieces evokes the highly distinctive design attributes of the original chronograph wristwatch from 1943, with its two-tone steel and pink gold case enhanced with a champagne dial. The case’s two-tone polished aesthetics are complemented by a satin-brushed gold-toned dial enriched with black transferred hour-markers, pink gold hour, minute and seconds hands, blue chronograph hands and a blue transferred tachymetric scale. Although the dial design has retained the original timepiece’s classic features and Art Deco-inspired numerals, the watch’s enlarged 40 mm diameter ensures better legibility fit for contemporary use.
Similarly to the 1943 wristwatch, the [Re]master01 ref. 26595SR.OO.A032VE.01 features the signature “Audemars Piguet & Co Genève” on the dial. This signature was utilized by Audemars Piguet from around 1885 to the mid-1970s when AP had a workshop in Geneva to be closer to end clients and facilitate distribution within Europe and beyond. When Audemars Piguet started to sign its watches in the early 20th century, the city of Geneva was frequently mentioned on the dial.
The chronograph counters have also been rearranged for improved readability. Yet, [Re]master01 ref. 26595SR.OO.A032VE.01 has subtly kept the original watch’s 4/5 indication above the 15 minutes mark inside the 30-minutes counter at 9 o’clock to allow the wearer to record up to 45 minutes. This indication was requested by Audemars Piguet’s third-generation family-founder Jacques-Louis Audemars (1910–2003) to satisfy his taste for soccer and indicate his favorite sport’s half time.
The Movement
Bringing the past into the present, the new Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 is powered by the new in-house calibre 4409. This automatic movement composed of 349 parts and 40 jewels, features an integrated chronograph with column-wheel and flyback function. Contrary to the original wristwatch from 1943, the new [Re]master01 features a glare-proofed sapphire crystal case back that reveals the beauty of the chronograph mechanism and its 22K pink gold oscillating weight matching the bezel. The oscillating weight is satin-brushed and decorated with a guilloché “Clous de Paris” —a traditional decoration technique used since the 1950s at Audemars Piguet. The movement provides a power reserve of 70 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.
Price & Limitation
The new Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 is delivered on a light brown hand-stitched calfskin strap that adds an elegant touch to the warm tones of the two-tone case and the champagne dial. Additionally, the watch comes with a second dark brown alligator strap. Available in a limited edition of 500 pieces.
Sticker Price $53,100 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.