The history of Seiko began in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a shop in Ginza to repair and sell timepieces. In 1913, his company produced Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, and many achievements that have advanced the art of watchmaking followed, from the first Grand Seiko watch in 1960, to observatory-trial performances that took the industry by storm a few years later, to the groundbreaking technology that is Spring Drive in 1999. The year 2023 marks the 110th anniversary of the Laurel, a milestone celebrated with the release of a series of commemorative timepieces including a new Grand Seiko limited edition that, like all the watches in the series, draws its inspiration from the company’s rich technological and design heritage.
Ever since the first Grand Seiko watch in 1960, durability and longevity have been the North Stars that have guided Grand Seiko on its path to making the ultimate watch. With this in mind, Grand Seiko celebrates 110 years of Seiko watchmaking with a new watch within the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection.
The new Grand Seiko SBGW295 Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition is cased in a Brilliant Hard Titanium re-creation of the first Grand Seiko timepiece, with the beloved profile of 1960. It features an Urushi lacquer dial with maki-e hour markers crafted to stand the test of time and captivate generations of watch connoisseurs with its uniquely Japanese beauty.
Using lacquer sourced exclusively from Japan, the dial is the handwork of urushi master Isshu Tamura in his studio in Kanazawa, a city known for its vibrant traditional Japanese culture. He builds up the lacquer markers layer by layer before sprinkling them with 24-karat gold powder. Making uniform, straight markers on a curved surface such as this dial requires the master’s touch.
Urushi lacquer is synonymous with traditional Japanese craft, and its use can be traced back to Japan’s Jomon Period —13,100 BC– 400 BC. While today it is most often employed to add a level of restrained ornamentation, urushi’s utility through the ages caused it to be used for its antiseptic and preservative qualities. The lacquer employed by Grand Seiko has the distinction of being sourced exclusively from the country of Japan, a rarity today when the vast majority of the urushi is produced abroad. The jet-black color of the urushi in this watch’s dial was achieved through the addition of iron. The lacquer is further enhanced through a special treatment unique to Grand Seiko that prevents its color from changing over time.
The maki-e hour markers were brought to life by urushi master Isshu Tamura in his studio in the city of Kanazawa, which means ‘marsh of gold’, located on the West Coast of Japan. The markers and Grand Seiko name are built up, layer upon layer, through the application of lacquer, endowing them with their trademark three-dimensional profile. Next comes the 24K gold powder —maki-e means ‘sprinkled picture’— which is applied and polished fastidiously with the special tools of the artisan. The process requires tremendous dexterity and precision to the micron level. Producing markers of uniform depth and width on a curved surface such as this watch dial is a challenge that requires a master’s touch.
As a re-creation of the very first watch to emerge from the then-fledgling Grand Seiko in 1960, the anniversary limited edition cuts a striking vintage profile, one that many watch lovers will recognize instantly. But for the urushi and maki-e treatments, the curved dial and Grand Seiko lettering are faithful to the original 1960 creation —which, like every Grand Seiko watch, was born of Japanese craftsmanship. But here, through the implementation of Japanese craftsmanship far older than watchmaking itself, a beloved design reaches a new level.
With its familiar shape, the Grand Seiko SBGW295 Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition channels the first Grand Seiko while incorporating materials known for their long-lasting, anti-corrosive properties. Its Brilliant Hard Titanium case measuring 38 mm in diameter is brighter than traditional titanium and commands a hardness twice that of stainless steel. The Brilliant Hard Titanium case and clasp ensure that the re-creation is not only beautiful and light but also highly resistant to corrosion and scratches. Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy is brighter than traditional titanium, causing the Zaratsu-polished surfaces to appear even more radiant.
The urushi dial’s jet-black color has been achieved through the addition of iron, and the lacquer has been further enhanced through a treatment unique to Grand Seiko that prevents its color from changing over time.
Ticking away under the dial is the manually wound Caliber 9S64, which allows for the slim profile and accuracy to +5 to -3 seconds per day while providing a power reserve of 72 hours. This 24-jewel manual wound movement beats at 28,800 vph while allowing the SBGW295 to maintain its slim profile of 10.9 mm and deliver a power reserve of three days.
Two leather straps accompany the Grand Seiko SBGW295 Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition. The first incorporates a traditional Japanese weaving technique called yoroiori which was once used for making samurai armor. Thin strips of calf leather and fabric are interlaced by a skilled artisan to enhance the watch strap’s durability, while the second strap is leather sourced for its softness, unique texture, and comfort.
The Grand Seiko SBGW295 Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition will be available as a limited edition of 500 pieces and sold through Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide starting February 2023.
Sticker Price $13,800 USD. For more info on Grand Seiko click here.
