From time to time we receive emails from watchlifestylers that want to share their watch collections with us. While we only feature these collections sporadically as we get dozens of emails every month, we are always very careful on featuring only those collections or timepieces that spark our interest and those which we believe would be appealing to our readers. Last week, we received an email with an interesting subject line: "Dozen Bubblebacks, All Rare and in Working Condition". As soon as we opened the email and read the kind words from this collector, we knew we had to schedule a private meeting to peruse these timepieces and feature them here. The collector who prefers to remain anonymous, is a fine gentleman that currently lives in Chicago and that spent 10 years hunting down these fascinating 'Bubblebacks'. In his own words: "once I bought my first 'Bubbleback' —pictured below—, I knew I had to get rid of all the other watches that I had been collecting for years and focus my attention on this beautiful Rolex icon".
Posts filed under Rolex
Rare Bird: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 1630. The Datejust that Looks Like an Oysterquartz but it's an Automatic.
Last week while we were visiting our friend Howard Frum and taking some pictures for the story we published last Friday, we were amazed to find not one but two Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 1630s at his store. An amazing find of a true 'rare bird'.
The 'rare bird' Rolex ref. 1630 was introduced a few years earlier than the Oysterquartz as its predecessor —at least from a case and bracelet standpoint. While the stainless steel version of this watch was named Oyster Perpetual Date ref. 1530, the two-tone version bears the name Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 1630. Interestingly enough, the case diameter on both watches is 36mm and not 34mm and 36mm respectively as it typically happens between a Date and a Datejust.
The ref. 1530 was fitted with an integrated 'Oyster' bracelet while ref. 1630 came with an integrated 'Jubilee' bracelet. A timeless and very 'Gerald Genta' looking design that would later be adopted by the Rolex Oysterquartz. As you can imagine, very few 1530s and 1630s were made in the 1970s.
For this particular timepiece, the reference number marking is located on the back of the case right behind where the 1 and 2 o'clock markers would be located on the dial. The serial number marking is typically located on the opposite side from where the reference number is engraved. The serial numbers for this model fall within the 5.1 and 5.4 million range.
This Rolex ref. 1630 came fitted with an integrated 'Jubilee' bracelet code 96673 in 14K yellow gold and stainless steel. The main difference between the two-tone bracelet in the Oysterquartz ref. 17013 and this one, is that the bracelet on the Oysterquartz comes with two gold center links while the bracelet on the ref. 1630 has three gold center links. It is very common to have unscrupulous sellers replace the bracelet of the ref. 1630 with the one on the ref. 17013 so be very careful. The clasp is identical to other Rolex clasps and the clasp code shows the letter B —circa 1977 and correct to the time period of this watch— and the number 14 indicating the type of yellow gold in this bracelet is 14K.
Another difference —besides the obvious difference in movement and dial imprint that doesn't say Oysterquartz— between ref. 1630 and the Oysterquartz, is the presence of a flange with a minute and half minute track. Something worth mentioning, is that ref. 1530 came with a minute track flange with the same layout as the one one on the second picture. As far as we know, all original flanges on ref. 1630 show the minutes and half minutes, while service replacement flanges only show markers for the minutes.
Without a doubt, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust ref. 1630 is one of the most iconic watches of all time and a clear example of an era influenced by flat top cases and Royal Oak inspired designs. Long live the Rolex ref. 1630.
If you find one of these rare references, make sure you have done your homework and always, always buy the buyer.
Pre-owned Sticker Price $3,800-5,000 USD depending on the condition. For more info on Rolex click here.
Insider: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520. Celebrating 50 Years of an Iconic Reference.
Launched in 1963, this is a Rolex reference that needs no introduction or long lines to describe it. Fifty years ago, one of the most iconic watches of all time was born. All watchlifestylers know this watch very well, as there's a wealth of knowledge and amazing content —in cyberspace and in books— regarding the history of this amazing reference that has already been published; therefore, we will focus on sharing some nice images of this wonderful iconic watch and give you some basic reference information.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is definitely one of our all-time favorite chronographs; however, the lack of a date aperture is a deal breaker for us. They are elegant, refined and iconic.
Any watchlifestyler can spot one from a block away and the watch spotting always turns into a nice conversation as this is still a 'grail' watch for many collectors. We should say that there's almost a 'cult following' fueled by Italian collectors and by the many intricacies and variations that this watch has had over half a century.
For those that wear this amazing reference, thank you for paying tribute to one of the most beautiful watches ever made in the history of watchmaking.
This reference, originally launched as ref. 6239 in 1963, has undergone several changes to its bezel, pushers, dial configurations, movements and reference numbers. A true evolution of a classic watch. For instance, the original ref. 6239 featured a stainless steel bezel graduated to 300 units per hour —years later the bezel was changed to 200 units per hour— and the dial didn't make any allusion to 'Daytona', the home of car racing in the U.S.
In 1965, when ref. 6240 was presented, the dial configuration had changed from 'Cosmograph' to 'Oyster Cosmograph', the pushers were changed from pump to screw-down, its water resistance was improved and the bezel changed from solid stainless steel to a bezel with a stainless steel ring and a black acrylic graduated insert with numbers in white.
Since then, there had been numerous references and changes made to this watch including changes to the case size —from 37 mm to 40 mm— and the movement. The watch was originally fitted with the manual-winding Valjoux calibre 72 and from there, it went to the automatic self-winding Zenith 400 on ref. 16520 —known as Rolex calibre 4030. Today, the Daytona is fitted with a newer and improved Rolex in-house movement calibre 4130. With all of its variations, the Daytona is a watch with perhaps the most fascinating and difficult to master history in the horological world. Every time we think we've read it all, there's a new article being published with another interesting set of facts regarding this timepiece.
By the way, a great source for information on rare, unusual Rolex watches including extremely rare Daytonas is Stefano Mazzariol's blog.
Today, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona is still as timeless and classic as it was 50 years ago. Its coveted white dial makes watchlifestylers travel around the world for one, pay special premiums over the retail price and even put their names on prepaid waiting lists for one. In reality, if you are in the know and you are a watchlifestyler with a good network of collectors, finding one is way easier than what most people think.
Now, if you want to get a rare vintage piece like a Rolex Cosmograph Yacht Master ref. 6242 or a ref. 6263 'Albino', then you really need to dig underneath the stones or you can call one of your close friends in Firenze, Roma, Napoli or Livorno.
Photo: Stefano Mazzariol Blog
Photo: Stefano Mazzariol Blog
For now, the images on this fantastic Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 should be good enough to put a big smile on your face.
Sticker Price $12,000 USD. For more info on Rolex click here.
Insider: Rolex Explorer ref. 214270. Commemorating 60 Years of the Conquest of Mount Everest.
May 29th, 2013 marks the 60th Anniversary of the conquest of Mount Everest. Mount Everest is the tallest peak on earth at 8,850 m —29,035 ft— located in the heart of the Himalayas between the borders of China and Nepal.
Before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully reached the summit, two other expeditions got quite close. In 1924, George Leigh Mallory and Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine were last seen at the Second Step at about 28,140-28,300 ft of altitude. Many people still wonder if they might have been the first ones to make it to the top; however, since neither one made it back, we'll never know for sure.
After seven weeks of climbing, the first two climbers to ever reach the summit of Mount Everest were the New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and the Nepalese Sherpa Tenzing Norgay —both members of a British expedition led by Colonel John Hunt. At 11:30am on May 29, 1953, these two man reached the summit in company of a few timepieces.
Opposed to what most people think, the watch worn by Sir Edmund Hillary during the ascent was not a Rolex but a Smiths watch. Today, it's still unclear whether the Rolex Explorer prototype he was given was a ref. 6098 or a ref. 6084—like the one pictured below. What we know for sure, is that the Rolex watch was kept in his pocket during the ascent and taken out until the summit was reached. On the other hand, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay was indeed wearing a Rolex watch at the time he reached the summit —a gold bubble-back ref. 6305 given to him by Swiss climber Raymond Lambert.
Rolex ref. 6084. Image from Christie's.
Rolex ref. 6305. Image from Christie's.
Regardless of which watch made it to the top first, we will always correlate the Rolex Explorer to that memorable event in mankind. After the expedition, Rolex Bosecks Calcutta gave Sir Edmund Hillary an engraved Rolex Explorer prototype just like the one that was issued for the expedition and Rolex Watch Company presented Tenzing Norgay an engraved gold Datejust ref. 6305 as a memento of the Swiss Expedition to Mount Everest.
Later during the year 1953, the first Explorer to have the recognizable dial with Arabic numerals at 9, 6 and 3 was launched under ref. 6298. Since then, the Explorer has seen different dial configurations and case changes including: the first dial to include the word 'Explorer' ref. 6350, a dial with red depth rating known as ref. 6610, an Explorer fitted with a white seconds hand ref. 6610, an Explorer with white seconds hand and the words 'Explorer' and 'Super Precision' in white lettering ref. 5504, a rail dial on ref. 5500, the Space-Dweller launched in 1963 ref. 1016 and lastly the latest version —pictured below and presented in 2010— with a larger case measuring 39mm and font changes ref. 214270.
Without a doubt, the Rolex Explorer is a robust watch well suited for climbers and for any watchlifestyler in pursue of discovering the remote confines of planet earth.
This watch is not only a classic, but a discreet timepiece that will take on daily abuse just like any other Rolex. Fitted with a sleek black dial, a reliable automatic movement —calibre 3132 with a power reserve of 42 hours— and a very comfortable 39 mm case with an oyster bracelet, the Rolex Explorer is the perfect companion for watchlifestylers seeking adventure. Sticker price $6,550.
For more info click here.
Images used on the background courtesy of ©Andy Bardon, ©Kristoffer Erickson, ©Royal Geographical Society and ©National Geographic Magazine. National Geographic Society The Call of Everest: The History, Science and Future of the World's Tallest Peak by Conrad Anker, 2013.
Baselworld 2013: Rolex Platinum Daytona. A Touch of Chocolate Cerachrom.
As expected by everyone, Rolex presented additional innovation on the Cosmograph Daytona line. This time, a beautiful platinum piece with striking contrasting light blue dial, chocolate registers and a chocolate cerachrom tachymeter scale bezel. We actually love the combo. Classy, refined, modern and an absolute stunner.
Now, what do you think?
Baselworld 2013: The New Rolex GMT Master II Blue and Black. Hate it or Love it.
Finally Rolex was able to pull off the bi-color cerachrom bezel on the GMT Master II, but, why not go with the classic Pepsi or the more modern Coke color combo?
Just like everyone else, we are still trying to figure this one out.
Regardless, this is definitely an amazing looking piece that proves one more time, that Rolex continues to excel at product innovation.
Love it or hate it, that's up to you?
Baselworld 2013: New Rolex and Tudor Pieces. Very Exciting Models.
We arrived at the Basel train station somewhere around 3:00 pm and headed immediately inside the exhibitors pavilion to check the novelties. Rolex and Tudor surprised us as the typically do during this time of the year. The two biggest innovations by Rolex included the unveiling of a new bi-color GMT Master II in stainless steel and a platinum Daytona with chocolate brown cerachrom bezel. With regards to Tudor it was really all about the Black Shield and the Heritage Chrono in Blue.
Experience: Elie Bleu Che Humidor. The Best Humidors in the World.
Elie Bleu of Paris has long been renowned as the maker of the world's best humidors and also of some of the most fascinating watch cases and cabinets. Founded in 1976 in the heart of the Parisian artistic woodwork area in Fabourg Saint-Antoine, Elie Bleu humidors are a work of art and individually handcrafted. In 2000, the company launched its first line of watch cases and in 2005 during BaselWorld, they presented watch storing cabinets fitted with up to a hundred automatic winders. In 2009, Elie Bleu was granted the 'Entreprises du Patrimoine Vivant'—Living Heritage Companies—recognition.
Each Elie Bleu humidor is individually handcrafted in France from precious fruitwood and finished with up to eight fine coats of clear varnish to provide a striking lacquered sycamore finish. All their wood is open air cured for a minimum of ten years to eliminate the possibility of sapping, cracking or warping. To be honest, no other humidor can match Elie Bleu's quality, durability, beauty, heirloom potential and reliability for generations of use.
All Elie Blue humidors are fitted with a gorgeous and very accurate analog hygrometer, separator and their patented humidifying unit that is guaranteed to last between two to three years. The hinges and front lock are delicately finished to guarantee hermetic cigar keeping and smooth opening and closing of the humidor.
The 'Che' Guevara humidor line is one of our favorites and for sure meant to become a future rarity and a collector's item. The 'Che' humidor line includes some of the most fascinating and colorful designs, all of them utilizing Alberto Korda's iconic portrait of 'Che' Guevara or the color palette of the Cuban flag. This particular humidor fits up to 75 cigars and provides a beautiful cedar-wood smell that will captivate your senses. Sticker price for this Elie Bleu humidor: $2785.
The 'Che' limited edition humidor is almost as rare as the Rolex GMT Master ref. 1675 'Che' used to wear.
For more info on this beautiful humidors and to buy one like this click here.
Experience: NATO Straps or Rob Montana. Your Choice.
Change is always good. Fitting your watches with NATO or vintage leather straps adds versatility and creates a completely different look to coordinate with your attire. This time, we fitted different NATO straps to several 1675s and the result was very interesting.
The NATO strap adds some character but it also turns the strap into integral part of the color scheme of your attire. Additionally, NATO straps reinforce the overall vintage look of a vintage Rolex timepiece. When it comes to leather straps, one of our favorites due to its rugged appearance is Rob Montana. This rugged leather strap gives the watch a unique and outdoorsy look.
Now, which do you prefer? Are you a NATO type of guy or more of an urban woodsman?
Vintage leather or NATO is up to you and the personality of your vintage watch.
For more info on Rob Montana straps click here.
Insider: GMT Master ref. 1675 circa 1978. A Stunner.
The story behind this beautiful example of a GMT Master ref. 1675 is just one of a kind. This watch was incorporated to a watch lifestyler's collection as part of a trade + cash type of deal. The watch is fitted with a nicely faded fat font Pepsi bezel inset. The hunt for the right insert took months, but the end result was worth the wait in our opinion.
While the dial is a MK IV example correct to the time period of the watch in the 5.5 million serial range, the bezel is an earlier example no longer found on watches of this time period. This watch comes with the correct calendar disc with open sixes and nines and the matte dial is just perfect, clean and with a beautiful egg shell to cream patina.
The hands show very little corrosion and match the dial perfectly with the same type of patina. The case has not been over polished like on most watches of this time period and still maintains thick lugs and nice chamfers. This watch is fitted with a hollow link Oyster bracelet still in decent shape. The movement is clean and keeping time spot on. +1 second per day.
To be honest, this is one of the most beautiful examples of a Rolex ref. 1675 that we have ever reviewed and experienced. If you come across a 1675 in this good of a condition, don't think twice, even if you need to move another watch and add some hard earned cash to the deal. We know that you won't regret it.
Watch Goodies: The Wooden Rolex Clock. Hard to Find.
The real story behind the very hard to find wooden Rolex clocks has always been a mystery. Among different groups of avid Rolex watch collectors we've heard dozens of versions but until now we didn't have what we feel is a definitive answer.
Some people mention that the clock was given to select authorized dealers during the 1970s, another version assures that these clocks were given to employees after 'x' number of years of service at the Rolex Service Centers but you are about to hear the real story behind these iconic wall clocks.
The owner of this clock is a former Rolex Service Center watchmaker that has finally provided a trustworthy answer for us. In the early 80s, this wall clocks were given by Rolex USA to authorized dealers with very high volume of sales. This particular watch was purchased by our friend from one of these dealers back in 1988 for $125. Ironic enough, the infamous Rolex wooden clock is fitted with a battery operated quartz movement made in Japan.
Going price for one of this clocks today is around $1500.
Is it really worth it with a Japanese quartz movement as its beating heart?
Insider: The Rolex Oysterquartz ref. 17000. A Forgotten Icon.
The Rolex Oysterquartz has now been discontinued for almost 10 years. For almost 26 years this iconic reference was produced in stainless steel, stainless steel and white gold, stainless steel and yellow gold and 18K yellow gold. It has been estimated that in all close to 25,000 Oysterquartz watches were ever produced by Rolex. The Oysterquartz was officially launched in 1977 and discontinued in 2003.
The Oysterquartz was launched during an era where quartz movements were increasingly becoming more important and in order to meet the demands of consumers, Rolex decided to venture into the quartz world with one of the most beautiful watch designs ever created.
The beating heart of this fantastic reference is one of those things that you can't hardly miss. If you've owned an Oysterquartz, you know what we are talking about. The ticking sound of this movement is so loud that you can hear it whenever you are in a quite area. Most Oysterquartz owners will make reference to this particular characteristic of this watch.
Evoking the looks of the Vacheron Constantin 222, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the IWC Ingenieur SL, with its flat top case, the Rolex Oyterquartz could not pass the test of time and maintain a spot in the current Rolex line-up.
This beautiful reference now forgotten by most watch collectors, was not only one of the first Rolex models to be fitted with a sapphire crystal at the time but also the only Rolex model to be supplied with a solid link integrated bracelet with no end links nor link removable screws.
Long live the Rolex Oysterquartz ref. 17000.
Watch Goodies: The Rolex Wimbledon Tie. For Attendees Only.
This rare green Rolex tie was released as a gift to the attendees of the 125th edition of the Wimbledon championship back in 2011. This green tie comes with a beautiful gold silk thread embroidered Rolex crown on the front around the center of the tie. The small end of the tie has a Rolex logo with crown embroidered with the same gold silk thread.
The back of the tie features a purple label with the Rolex brand and the writing commemorating the 125th edition of the Wimbledon championship dated 2011. This tie looks superb with a Navy Blazer with gold buttons, a light blue shirt and a full-Windsor knot as the tie is quite thick.
Video: The Movement Inside a Rolex Paul Newman Daytona ref. 6239.
A look into the beating heart of the legendary Rolex Paul Newman Daytona ref. 6239. The beating of the manual wound Valjoux calibre 72 a.k.a. Rolex Cal. 722. Please enjoy!
Insider: Rolex Datejust ref. 116200. As Classic as a Negroni.
This particular Rolex Datejust has been the daily watch of our friend and watch lifestyler Carlo. After 7 years of ownership we share with you his own personal journey with this watch. Today, a Rolex Datejust with white roman numeral dial is as classic as a Negroni. The Negroni originated in Firenze, Italy in 1919 by Count Camillo Negroni. The story tells that one afternoon he asked his bartender to strengthen his favorite cocktail— the Americano— by replacing the soda water with gin. The bartender also replaced the lemon garnish with an orange wedge to signify that it was a different drink and that's how one of the most classic cocktails was born.
Just like the Negroni, the Rolex Datejust was also launched many decades ago back in 1945. The Datejust was the first wristwatch with a date function. The Datejust is offered with two options of bracelets—the jubilee and the oyster— and also several different bezel and dial variations. Its 36mm case is just perfect for men or women and every day wear, whether dressed up or down. Today, most Rolex Men's watches are being worn by women fashionistas that appreciate fine watches. In 2009, the Datejust II was released with a 41mm case. The ref. 116200 is fitted with caliber 3135 with a power reserve of 48 hours. Sticker price: $6,600.
As wear marks and battle scars are already prevalent on the case, bezel and bracelet, one can tell that this watch has been much loved and enjoyed. Carlo purchased this Rolex Datejust as his first Rolex back in 2006. Carlo, a restauranteur by trade and also a Paneari lover, mentions that he will wear this watch over his Panerais all the time. The reason why, in his own words: "It's the most comfortable watch I've ever owned and the best suited or any occasion".
For more info on this watch click here.
Insider: Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600. A Discontinued Classic.
By far one of the most iconic Rolex references in conjunction with the Submariner. The Sea-Dweller originally launched in 1967 was developed as a sturdier and deeper rated Submariner for the french industrial deep-sea diving company COMEX S.A.
Back in 1967 the reference number for the Sea-Dweller was ref. 1665 and it had a depth rating of 610m/2,000ft. The Sea-Dweller also incorporated a helium release escape valve for gas decompression chambers. This model also lacks of a cyclops —date loupe— providing a cleaner and more simple look in comparison with its sibling the Submariner Date.
The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 watches also known as Double-Red Sea-Dwellers are highly collectible and very coveted by vintage Rolex collectors around the world. The DRSD as it is commonly known in the watch collecting world, had 2 red text lines on the watch dial which led to an unofficial "Double Red" designation under watch collectors for these watches.
Picture courtesy of www.doubleredseadweller.com
The Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000 models were displaced by the Sea-Dweller 4000 model ref. 16600 rated to a depth of 4,000ft/1,220m. The last Comex Sea-Dweller 4000 Rolex reference number is 16600 and this watch was issued to Comex divers since 1992. Today, the ref. 16600 is now discontinued after the launch in 2008 of the DeepSea Sea-Dweller ref. 116660 with a depth rating of 12,800ft/3,900m.
This wonderful diver's watch is very solid with a glossy raised white gold surround minute markers, a decompression times uni-directional rotating bezel, date aperture, triple-lock screwdown crown, oyster bracelet with divers extension and a flip-lock clasp. The case and bezel setup construction is definitely thicker than that on the Rolex Submariner and the HRV —Helium Release Valve— is located at the 9 o'clock position. This reference has no lug holes as of the early 2000s and is fitted with a solid-link oyster bracelet.
Experience: Inside a Paul Newman Daytona ref. 6239. Beating Heart.
The beating of the manual winding Valjoux caliber 72 a.k.a. Rolex Cal. 722. Enjoy.
Insider: GMT Master ref. 1675. Over a Cup of Espresso.
Yesterday I decided to have a cup of espresso with a close watchlifestyler and friend of mine and talk about his GMT with black bezel insert. As most of us know, the GMT Master ref. 1675 was traditionally sold with two options of bezel inserts. The now called pepsi—blue and red— and the black one. While the black insert is less coveted among most savvy vintage Rolex watch collectors, we believe that a vintage GMT sporting one of this black bezel inserts is not only less common and rarely seen in the wild but also makes the watch look more sophisticated and easier to wear with any outfit or any occasion.
This beautiful specimen is a mid 70's watch with a great creamy patina, silver date wheel with open nines and sixes, original oyster bracelet and a sharp solid black bezel insert. After 35 years of life, this watch is still very accurate and losing only 2 seconds a day. The dial is what experts consider to be a MK IV tritium dial correct for the time period with no visible blemishes or unstable lume. The tritium does not glow any more and the hands are in perfect condition with no corrosion or pitting. This watch has only seen two different owners in over 35 years that have kept it in great condition, regardless of being a daily wearer.
After close review of the watch, we can say that the black bezel insert is definitely more visually appealing to me than the classic coveted pepsi insert. When it comes to the GMT Master with black insert, we have seen that most collectors would prefer a faded black bezel—usually referred to as ghost insert— over one that is scratch-free or free of fading or discoloration. We actually prefer the solid jet black look of this one.
Now, are you a pepsi, black or ghost insert type of watchlifestyler?
Insider: The Iconic Rolex GMT Master Nipple Dial 'Rootbeer' ref. 16753
Also known as the 'eye of the tiger', 'tigerauge' or 'occhio di tigre' because of the resemblance of its dial to the semi-precious stone with the same name, the GMT Master ref. 16753 with brown dial is an iconic vintage Rolex reference. Typically, more vintage looking when fitted with a jubilee bracelet instead of an oyster bracelet. The example included here, is in the 6.1 million serial range circa 1979 with a quick-set feature and a pristine clean matte dial.
This beautiful specimen very popular among Italian vintage watch collectors is not as rare and hard to find as one would think. Now, finding one with a naturally faded bezel insert and with no flaking to little flaking on the dial is hard to come across. Most nipple dials from the 70s start to show some flaking and discoloration due to unstable elements in the paint used back then to create the dials.
Experience: Replacing the Plexi on a ref. 1675. Five Minute Pit Stop.
All it takes is a reputable Rolex watchmaker like M. Chamosa in Dallas, TX. The proper Rolex tools, a correct original new old stock Tropic 116 and five minutes of a collector's time.
