Watch collectors come in all sizes and types. All sorts of personalities, styles, and particular tastes. While it is cool to see what celebrities own when it comes to watches, there is nothing more rewarding than to see the actual watch collection of a normal guy or gal that we can relate to as mere mortals.

A watch collector like @Jardin_des_rois is the kind of watch collector that we would love to meet every time we run into a new watch collector or when we hang out with a new group of watch collectors. He is the co-founder of bespoke watch strap maker Alex Crown and a real lover of horology in the truest sense of the word. His love for independent horologists and haute horlogerie can be truly appreciated through his Instagram posts and everyday life. A watch collector who breathes watches and believes in fine watchmaking at its best.

Now, you’ll hear directly from him about this fantastic watch collecting hobby that brought us together.

When Did You Start Collecting Watches? What Made You Start Collecting? What was Your First Luxury Watch?

My grandfather and two other granduncles were watchmakers, so watches have been in my blood since I was born. I feel an inexplicable feeling of awe, curiosity, and familiarity whenever I handle a watch —it’s as if I’ve known it for a very long time. My grandfather passed away about three months after I was born so I didn't know him, hence collecting allows me to create a soulful connection between us and it always makes me wonder what kind of watches he handled between the 1940s and 1970s. 

Then, my father became a mechanical engineer and never learned the watchmaking trade but he collects Seikos. Growing up I always had a watch on my wrist. Whether it be a Seiko, a Casio, or an Adidas. Earlier in my career, I didn't have much money so I wore a Garmin mostly. I began reading about watches in 2008 and bought my first copy of WristWatch Annual in 2010 where I learned and memorized all the various brands and models. From there, I devoured every piece of interesting knowledge I could find deep within the nooks and crannies of the PuristSPro and the Rolex Forums and started my watch collecting passion.

Rolex was the obvious grail for me at the time but I couldn't afford one and I also felt that it was a bit too ubiquitous and traditional. I wanted something different yet classic enough that I could wear to my wedding, which was coming up. I eventually chose the Longines Heritage Retrograde L4.797.4.71.2, a stainless steel white dial watch with blued retrograde hands for the GMT function, small seconds, day, and date. It was about USD 3,000 because I had a Macy's sales coupon and they allowed me to take out a zero percent 3-year loan on it —what a deal. Being the diehard watch collector that I was already, I dug into my wife's engagement ring budget just so I could buy this Longines, and believe me, after more than a decade of marriage this is still a sore topic.

What are Your Favorite Brands?

My heart lies with independent watchmakers and brands, and because I know so many of them personally and love them all, it's hard to pick favorites. The three independent brands that I resonate with the most are De Bethune, Akrivia, and Roger Smith. Denis Flageollet of De Bethune has built an incredible brand DNA with timeless future-past designs that utilize innovative materials and engineering, paired with traditional watchmaking methods. I could go on for hours talking about De Bethune.

When I first met Rexhep Rexhepi and Annabelle Roques more than 5 years ago, I couldn't yet fully appreciate the genius of what they were building. I saw all the Akrivias but stupidly failed to order a single watch, which is a decision I've regretted deeply to this day. I watched Rexhep's growth through the years and religiously attended the ONLY Watch exhibitions just so I could see his Chronomètre Contemporain pieces. Since then, through my dear friend Chris Daaboul of Esperluxe, I've had the opportunity to spend more time with both Rexhep and Annabelle at their Geneva atelier, and I am fully smitten. I do not yet own an Akrivia or Rexhep Rexhepi timepiece and humbly hope I'll have the opportunity to someday. 

The Roger Smith story is one that I identify strongly with because if I were a watchmaker, I would probably approach watchmaking the same way Roger did. I think his first watch took him a year and a half to complete, while his second watch, which was completely hand-built from scratch, took about five years. I really like the decidedly British elements in Roger's watches such as the raised barrel bridge and frosted plates. In addition, I love that Roger has improved on George Daniels' co-axial escapement by combining the double escape wheels into a single escape wheel. I geek out about this so hard because the escapement is a really difficult part of the watch to innovate. In recent years however, there has been some commotion around Roger's increased retailed pricing which has created a bit of a cloud over his pieces, but I have every confidence that Roger will find a way to take care of his collecting community.

Outside the independent watch brands, Audemars Piguet is my favorite big brand. Many collectors today only see the hype and celebrity surrounding the brand, and criticize AP for being too Royal Oak-centric. I choose instead to focus on AP's rich, long history in the holy trinity pantheon of watchmaking. It was arguably the first brand to capitalize on Gerald Genta's sports watch designs, certainly one of the first to champion female designers like Jacqueline Dimier.

Which of Your Watches Do You Consider Special and Why?

All my watches are special. They are all meaningful and I remember exactly how I procured every one, which makes me one of the worst collectors in the sense that I find it very hard to trim my collection or trade in and out of what I have. If I had to pick two, they would be my De Bethune DB28 and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Black Ceramic ref. 26240CE ‘50th Anniversary Edition’.

I finally met Pierre Jacques —CEO of De Bethune— in 2018 and was blown away when I handled their watches. I soon honed in on the watch I wanted —the De Bethune DB28 Aiguille d'Or, a limited edition run of 50 pieces. At the time, the independent watchmaking brands were still relatively unknown and underpriced because everyone was only collecting Rolex and Patek Philippe. I finally found one and the price was relatively low compared to what it transacts for today. I remember having a serious discussion with my wife and asking her for permission to make this move because it was highly likely that the value of the watch would depreciate to zero after I bought it. To my surprise, she approved my purchase.

However, when I approached the seller to buy the watch, they told me someone else had just purchased it. I was devastated. With the help of a dear friend, I ended up buying an F.P. Journe instead to ease the pain but never forgot the sting of this missed opportunity. A few years later, I found another DB28 Aiguille d'Or for about the same price, and this time, I sprang for it immediately. This DB28 is now my favorite timepiece in my collection and the one I treasure most deeply. 

Around the same time I bought the DB28, I co-founded Alex Crown. Needless to say, this De Bethune DB28 has been the muse of several of our most successful designs ranging from full alligator to sporty velcro straps, and it continues to take almost any strap I put on it. The sign of a good watch is certainly the ability to handle all sorts of strap designs, colors, and materials.

The other special watch in my collection is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Black Ceramic ref. 26240CE ‘50th Anniversary Edition’. I always wanted a full ceramic Royal Oak but they were only available in a Perpetual Calendar version or a smaller diameter of 34 mm. In 2022, when Audemars Piguet was celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Kevin Hart was photographed attending a Super Bowl LVI party wearing an unreleased black ceramic chronograph —to this day, I do not know if that was a carefully calculated PR leak or an honest tease ahead of its launch.

Either way, I requested it and was extremely fortunate to get one. My AP salesperson has been much more of a dear friend instead of a mere salesperson, which made this timepiece even more significant because of our close friendship. The black ceramic makes the watch incredibly easy to wear because it's scratch-resistant, and the watch is great for traveling because it's easy to set.

Can You List the Brands and Watches You’ve Owned in Your Watch Collecting Journey?

I have been fortunate enough to collect timepieces from Longines, Tudor, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, F.P. Journe, and De Bethune. As you stated, it is a journey and mine is far from over. There are so many other great brands I wish to collect over the next few decades and I want to take my time to discover, find, and procure the right references to add to my eclectic collection.

I'm hopeful to add timepieces by Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi, Kari Voutilainen, Greubel Forsey, Romain Gauthier, Vianney Halter, and by younger Indie watchmakers like Jack Matthew Elam, Remy Cools, and Raúl Pagès. Beyond this list, there are many more Indies to experience, so my wish list is certainly non-exhaustive! 

Why Do You Buy Certain Brands and Watches?

To be a patron of a brand or watchmaker, I must first love the company that's built around it. Sometimes that means I have to get to know the lone watchmaker whose name is on the timepiece or the executive team that drives the brand forward. I'm too much of a business nerd and I constantly think about strategy, operations, and customer service, as much as I think about pure watchmaking. I am fortunate that with Audemars Piguet, I've been able to meet and spend significant time with so many corporate and technical folk who laboriously toil quietly behind the scenes.

The bar I have for independent brands is just as high because I need to meet and spend time with the owner or watchmaker behind the brand. The personal relationship here is paramount because buying a timepiece can be more emotional since you are directly supporting the craft of someone you know.

Many collectors argue that it's all about the watch and that the product should stand for itself. Some don't care for the watchmaker or company and can go on collecting without ever building a meaningful connection with the brand. I cannot disassociate the brand from the product, and I have to consider the complete package because buying watches is an emotional experience, rather than a rational or investment-led decision. I also don't care what anyone else thinks of my taste in watches and I don't always seek advice from my friends or fellow collectors not because I don't respect their opinion, but because I view the journey as a very personal one. I am the only person who has to live with my own decision. 

Lastly, I enjoy creating different personalities for a timepiece through our Alex Crown watch straps. When I want to collect a watch, I evaluate whether or not it is versatile enough to handle a range of strap combinations. The watch strap is just a humble piece of leather or fabric but it has the power to completely transform a watch and elevate your mood and emotions. The strap encompasses about two-thirds of your wrist apart from the watch itself, and picking the right colors and styles is an important decision. The watch strap is a lot more powerful than collectors think it is.

What is Your Favorite Watch Complication?

I am obsessed with complications. It's already difficult to make a "simple" three-hand watch, but throw in a high complication or combine a few of them, and that will get me super excited. My favorite watch complication has to be the Perpetual Calendar. There is something insanely mind-bending about a fully mechanical object being able to tell the accurate day, date, month, leap year, and phases of the moon, which are things one would only expect a computer or smartwatch to be able to do. The dial usually looks super complicated and impressive, and a gorgeous blue moon phase makes me weak at the knees. 

The tourbillon, which some say is not a complication, comes a close second. Regardless of how much accuracy it adds to a watch, I find the tourbillon carriage and escapement simply mesmerizing, and the sometimes loud ticking sound is a fantastic sensation I thoroughly enjoy. Speaking about audible sounds, I hope to add a chiming watch such as a Minute Repeater to my collection someday. To be able to tell the time via some chiming gongs opens up a whole new collecting experience for me. One of my late-night guilty pleasures is playing videos of Minute Repeaters on repeat just to hear the pitch, timbre, and cadence across different chiming watches. It's my bedtime lullaby.

Which is Your Grail Watch You Wish to Own One Day?

Everyone's definition of a grail watch is different. To me, it has to be the most elusive achievement which would be the equivalent of scaling Mount Everest or beating Stockfish at chess. The grail watch has to be something that I cannot reasonably obtain, but if I did, it would eclipse any other watch I'll ever lust for. Along the lines of this definition, my grail watch is the unique George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon. 

Apart from Abraham Louis Breguet, to me, George Daniels is arguably the best watchmaker who ever lived and the father of independent watchmaking. Daniels only ever made two wristwatches in his lifetime and the Spring Case Tourbillon was one of them. It was Daniels' watch, then sold to a friend, then privately to another collector, and most recently was publicly sold by Phillips in 2022. The simple time and power reserve front dial belies a hidden back dial that displays a day, date, and 60-second co-axial tourbillon. The gorgeous aesthetics of both dials, extraordinary tourbillon escapement, and collectability of a significant Daniels timepiece make this my grail of grails.

Photo: Phillips Watches

However, if we define grail watch according to a more general definition, there are several more "attainable" and realistic watches I would love to own, such as the Akrivia AK04 Tourbillon Regulator, Greubel Forsey GMT Sport, George Daniels Anniversary, Vianney Halter Antiqua Perpetual Calendar, and Patek Philippe reference 2499.

How Many Times Do You Switch Watches During the Day?

I already have so many business and personal decisions to make in a single day, so I like to keep things simple with my watches. I rarely switch watches during the day. 

If You Had to Keep and Wear Only One Watch From Your Current Collection to Wear for the Rest of Your Life, Which One Would That Be?

Easy, it would be my De Bethune DB28 Aiguille d'Or. It's the watch I almost missed out on and I'm grateful to have one today. I have told my wife that when I pass away, I wish to be buried with it but I suspect this will not be the wisest financial decision.

If You Had to Have a Three-watch Collection What Would It Look Like?

As a watch collector, this is the one question that preoccupies an inordinate amount of my brain space and one that I vex about nightly through a series of relentless mental gymnastics. My ultimate three-watch collection would be an all-independent watchmaking lineup. I’ll start with the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport, then the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, and De Bethune DB28 Aiguille d'Or.

All Images except for the George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon provided by @Jardin_des_rois