W&W 2023: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface (Live Pictures)
A traditional set of complications with a modern watchmaking approach is what the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface brings to the table. In a nutshell, modernity meets traditional watchmaking. With its open-worked dial this new watch combines a tourbillon and a retrograde date allowing a perfect view of the architecture of the calibre 2162 R31 with its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment.
A retrograde date display is one in which the indicator does not complete a full turn of the dial, instead traveling along its entire measurement segment and then returning to its starting point to begin a new journey. This is generally an arc of a circle swept over by a dedicated hand. Most retrograde displays apply to cyclical time indications such as hours, minutes, seconds, days or dates. This mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly with regards to shock and wear-resistance.
Heir to the References 47245 and 47247, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface combines its retrograde display with a partially openworked dial, another signature of the Maison since the early 20th century. Openface dials highlight the technical nature and the meticulous and consistent attention to detail through an avant-garde aesthetic approach. Housed in an 18K pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and only 11.07 mm thick, this new timepiece is fitted with a grey alligator strap secured by a pink gold folding clasp.
Stepped round case and lugs, a fluted caseback, a slim bezel, a railway minute-track, bi-facetted Dauphine hands and gold baton-type hour-markers are the characteristic attributes of the Traditionnelle collection. The openworked sapphire dial, which also has a guilloché segment, reveals in-house Calibre 2162 R31, whose retrograde mechanism plate is highlighted by a slate grey surface treatment, achieved by a succession of thin galvanic layers. It is further enhanced by vertical hand-brushing on the upper part, its surface having been smoothed with a dedicated abrasive serving to create subtle light effects, as well as a hand-guilloché lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, thus gains added depth in an ultra-contemporary yet very watchmaking style.
Stylised in the shape of a hollowed-out Maltese Cross, the tourbillon features a set of refined and complex finishes: the inside of its carriage is hand-bevelled, its cone-shaped transversal bar is hand-polished to give it a mirror-like gleam close to perfection.
Powering the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is the automatic calibre 2162 R31 that revisits the concept of haute horlogerie by adapting it to modern times with its NAC slate grey finish, a 72-hour power reserve and decorated gold peripheral oscillating weight. The majestic tourbillon is set in a contemporary mainplate with a very high-quality watchmaking finish reflecting the grand Geneva tradition.
With its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment perfectly visible on both sides of the watch, the movement is notably highlighted by hand-crafted finishes such as vertical hand-brushing on the upper part of the retrograde mechanism plate and guilloché work on the lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, takes on added depth in a functional and contemporary style.
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is delivered on a grey alligator strap with folding clasp and is exclusively available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques worldwide. On the wrist, the watch wears remarkably and true to its size.
Sticker Price TBC. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.