The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ref. 5100 sets the stage for a tourbillon placed at 12 o'clock and a monopusher chronograph, which pays tribute to the history of Haute Horlogerie and reflect Vacheron Constantin's technical mastery in the crafting of Grandes Complications. A complication single-handedly symbolizing the nobility of Haute Horlogerie. The “Etagé” case and lugs, a fluted case-back, a railway-type minute track, dauphine-type hours and minutes hands are some of the aesthetic codes of the Traditionnelle collection and all are clearly present on this new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph.

Instead of being driven by the pinion of the fourth wheel, the tourbillon carriage is set in motion by an intermediate wheel of the running seconds display. This configuration enables an extremely wide opening onto the upper plate, thereby offering an even more spectacular view of the tourbillon.

The model also features a power-reserve indication at 6 o’clock and a 45-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. The chronograph function monopusher inserted into the winding crown accentuates the technical side of the watch. It features a dynamic activation system —known as "all-or-nothing"— which prevents the chronograph mechanism from engaging when insufficient pressure is exerted on the pusher. It also revives the spirit of the original pocket chronographs before the mechanism migrated to the wrist: these models had only one pusher, often housed in the crown, which successively handled the start, stop and reset functions.

While the chronograph thereby recalls its origins, it also flaunts its vanguard performance credentials through the use of the “friction” technique for the lateral clutch mechanism combined with a column wheel, thus ensuring smooth activation of the function and preserving it from excessive wear over the long term. This technique also reduces the potential stuttering of the chronograph hand when it is activated.

Finally, the 45-minute counter with dragging display serves to reduce the loss of amplitude generally noted when the chronograph function is activated. When the latter is stopped, this type of display also serves to provide a more accurate time indication.

Sticker Price $197,000 USD. For more info on Vacheron Constantin click here.

The Movement

To power this timepiece, Vacheron Constantin has chosen a mechanism that is an integral part of its history, the manual wound calibre 3200 presented on the occasion of the Manufacture's 260th anniversary. A technical masterpiece combining 292 components assembled by the most expert hands, this manual-winding tourbillon chronograph movement is distinguished by its 2.5 Hz frequency, which makes its steady beating visually easy to follow. The care devoted to decorative details is a sure sign that this model does indeed belong to the world of classic watchmaking: the aesthetic of the tourbillon carriage is inspired by the Maltese cross, its bar is entirely hand-finished and the finishes of the movement itself call upon the noblest horological traditions —chamfering, circular-graining, Côtes de Genève.

Technical Specs

Reference: 5100S/000R-B623

Movement: In-house Calibre 3200, manual-wound, 292 parts, and 39 jewels. Power reserve of 65 hours.

Case: 42.5 mm in diameter x 11.7 mm thick in 18K 5N pink gold.

Case Back: Display with Sapphire Crystal and water-resistant tested to 30 meters.

Dial: Silvered Opaline with 18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hands. Black screw-on tourbillon carriage for seconds indication.

Strap: Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap, saddle-finish, large square scales with 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp with half Maltese cross shape.