Watch Art: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers. Five Incredible Creations with Pounced Ornament and Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dials.

February 14, 2018 Editor & Publisher

One of our favorite releases at the SIHH 2018 were the five incredible Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers with their pounced ornament and plique-à-jour enamel dials featuring five different hot air balloons to celebrate the five flights taken in France between 1783 and 1785. A faithful reproduction in miniature of the historical depictions of these flights are carefully and splendidly hand engraved and micro-sculpted in gold against a translucent plique-à-jour enamel background. Five new watches that need to be seen in the metal to be fully appreciated; regardless, our pictures are a real treat for the eyes and will allow you to appreciate the watches almost as if you had them in front of you.

The Craftsmanship

Each hot air balloon called for up to three weeks of craftsmanship in order to reproduce the entire range of subtle feature and ornamental details of the original works. The dials thus compose authentic miniature scenes graced with an extraordinary variety of motifs. The pounced ornament technique consists of removing material so as to fashion relief effects. This irreversible operation calls for an impeccably deft touch.

The master engraver first traces the volumes using a dry point technique, before sculpting the precious mass, which creates a particularly delicate rounded effect. This stage serves to carve out the curves of the balloon and the basket, as well as the lines of the ropes. The burins are repeatedly sharpened so as to achieve extreme precision. The level of finishing becomes ever more sophisticated, all the way through to the smallest details of the human figures, animals and the meticulous decoration of the balloons.

The artisans each use their own methods and tools: small stones, brushes, papers and files. The light effects playing over the different gold textures naturally influence the visual appearance of the surface. The colorful magic of plique-à-jour enamel also takes the center stage in these five exquisite creations. On the dials of the Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers collection, a translucent background in sky blue, dark blue, turquoise, brown or burgundy, evoke a spirit of airy transparency.

About the Five Watches

The five pieces are cased in an 18K white gold case measuring 40 mm in diameter, they all feature 18K gold hand engraved balloons and are available in a limited edition of 5 pieces each, all priced at $135,000 USD.

The predominant shades of each creation are also picked up on the display discs as well as the matching strap. Transparency effects provide fascinating glimpses of the gear trains and discs of the in-house Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 G4/1 through the plique-à-jour enamel. This special automatic calibre composed of 237 parts and 27 jewels, provides a power reserve of 40 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph.

The disc-type display is cleverly revealed through apertures around the rim of the dial, between the curves of the plique-à-jour enamel partitions. The hours, minutes, day of the week and date are shown by means of four discs: respectively two of the dragging type and two of the jumping variety.

The Movement

The calibre decorated according to the highest watchmaking finishing standards is generously visible through the transparent case back. The 22K gold oscillating weight was specially engraved and domed for this new collection, evoking the rounded shape of a hot-air balloon.

Métiers d'Art Les Aérostiers - Versailles 1783

7610U/000G-B244 - Métiers d'Art Les Aérostiers - Versailles 1783. An aerostat, designed by Étienne de Montgolfier, rises into the air for the very first time. This “aerostatic experiment” has a sheep, a rooster and a duck on board. Their survival will testify to the sufficiency of oxygen at a given altitude. Engraved in white gold, the basket and its floating ropes, having been slightly damaged by the landing, are perfectly visible beneath the opulent 5N gold balloon.