Insider: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Limited Edition. Hands-on with two Vintage Looking Chronometer Watches.
Invigorating its Marine collection and trying to reach a much younger clientele comes the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Limited Edition as an ode to the sea and homage to WWII torpedo boats in a vintage inspired limited edition with two dial variations. Each dial variation is available in a limited edition of 300 pieces each and cased in a bead blasted 44 mm stainless steel case. Simple but very well executed, both watches feature vintage font Arabic numerals as well as running seconds subdials at 6 o'clock and vintage inspired spade and whip hands.
The Dial & Case
Fitted with either an eggshell white or a black vintage inspired dial with vintage looking Arabic numerals, the layout is very clean and well balanced with a running seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. The spade and whip shaped hour and minute hands have been coated in ruthenium to present an unmistakable graphite grey appearance.
Inside the running seconds subdial, each watch is individually numbered in red —adding a nice touch of color to the dial— and the letters C.W. in black referring to 'Chronometer Watch'.
In order to make the watches much more vintage looking besides the vintage appearance of their dials, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Limited Edition comes with a generously sized bead blasted stainless steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter with a slightly oversized screw-down crown that is signed with the iconic UN anchor logo. Both watches are water resistant to 50 meters. In Ulysse Nardin good old fashion, the serial numbers and limitation are engraved on a satin-brushed stainless steel plaque that is screwed onto to the left caseband.
The Strap
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Limited Edition is delivered on a distressed nubuck light brown strap with beige contrast stitching for the white dial model and on a distressed black strap with gold contrast stitching for the black dial version. Both watches sport a pin buckle in matching bead blasted stainless steel. Both watches are water resistant to 50 meters and their straps seem to be of the kind that will be OK even if gotten wet.
The Movement
Powering the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Edition ref. 1183-320LE/60 and ref. 1183-320LE/62 is the in-house Ulysse Nardin automatic calibre UN-118 with 55 jewels. This robust calibre provides a power reserve of 60 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph and it features an anchor escapement which is produced using DIAMonSIL —Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary alliance of diamond and silicon.
Protecting the movement, there is a solid case back with a gorgeous bas-relief stamping of a torpilleur —topedo— boat.
On the Wrist & Pricing
On the wrist, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military Limited Edition wears slightly bigger than its actual size and more like a 45 mm watch. The watch is very vintage looking and totally military inspired. The wrist presence is relatively similar to certain pilot's watches from Zenith or IWC. Not bad for the price and without a doubt a great looking watch that could be paired with casual or dressed up clothes.
Sticker Price $7,900 USD. For more info on Ulysse Nardin click here.