Roger Dubuis passed at the end of 2017 —at age of 80— and left a legacy in the world of horology that can hardly be surpassed by any other modern-day watchmaker. His renowned expertise in Haute Horlogerie and his disruptive vision created a brand that is hard to rival. Roger Dubuis founded his atelier in 1980 after working on complications for Patek Philippe. After working for 15 years on his own and doing work under commission for many brands, he hired Carlos Dias from Franck Muller to start his own brand 'Roger Dubuis' in 1995. In 2008, the Richemont Group acquired 60% of Roger Dubuis in a private transaction with Carlos Dias the CEO at the time. Since its founding in 1995, the Maison has consistently pushed technical boundaries and shown an unswerving commitment to boldly go where no other watchmakers have gone before.

The Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is one of those whimsical watches that was released before Richemont acquired the brand. Presented in 2006 in a limited edition of 28 pieces in 18K rose gold and 28 pieces in 18K white gold, the Golden Square Perpetual Calendar stays true to the DNA and design cues of the most traditional and memorable watches created by the master Roger Dubuis, himself.

Featuring a perfectly square case with a cambered profile, the case measures 40 mm x 40 mm and comes with most of the perpetual calendar correctors concealed in between the lugs area and with only one of them exposed on the left caseband. The watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size with an immaculate presence. The Roger Dubuis Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is graced by a silver opaline dial with exploded black Roman numerals —one of the iconic signature features of a Roger Dubuis timepiece.

A double aperture above the Roger Dubuis name indicates the day of the week and the month, a stunning moon phase indicator in lapis lazuli with a solid gold moon is located between 7 and 8 o’clock, a date indicator positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, and a leap year indicator with a green and blue disc is located at 3 o’clock —the disc is differently color-coded on the white gold model.

The watch was delivered with a brown —black for the white gold model— perforated alligator strap with either pin or deployant buckle.

Turning the Golden Square Perpetual Calendar reveals a round display case back showcasing a relatively small movement —considering the case size— that is exquisitely finished with anglage and Geneva stripes. The beating heart is the automatic Calibre RD 5739 which happens to be an Observatory Chronometer —Bulletin d’Observatoire— as mentioned on the dial of the watch. The 18K rose gold version of the Golden Square Perpetual Calendar is equipped with an oscillating weight with a solid gold insert that bears Roger Dubuis’ initials in a cursive font.

A classic watch with a modern twist thanks to its oversized construction. A bold and elegant timepiece that only Carlos Dias and Roger Dubuis could’ve envisioned before selling to the Richemont group. Not a bad decision at all because that decision allowed for the brand to continue and grow in terms of product offering; however, to us, the pre-Richemont era Roger Dubuis watches are what we like the most and where you can find the most value for your money. Honestly., where else can you get this caliber of a perpetual calendar for the money?

Approximate Sticker Price $25,000-$30,000 USD —depending on condition and availability of box and papers.