Patek Philippe is one of the most respected brands when it comes to manual wound chronographs and their vintage spirit and timelessly classic design are unparalleled. First presented in 18K white gold with a blue dial, the newest iteration of the reference 5172G with a rose-gilded opaline dial released this year is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful chronographs out there and perhaps the best that money can buy in this price range. Whether you go with the blue dial reference 5172G-001 or the rose-gilded dial reference 5172G-010 you are for sure making the right choice if you are looking for the best in this price range.

Extensively appreciated by collectors of fine mechanical timepieces, the Patek Philippe Chronograph ref. 5172G brings the best of traditional watchmaking design and modern technology into one stunning timepiece. Remarkable legibility of the dial by day or night is ensured by the applied Arabic numerals and syringe-type hours/minutes hands made of gold with white luminescent coating.

Things to Know About the Watch

Fitted with a very generous —in line with the modern case sizes— 18K white gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter, Patek Philippe has redesigned its chronograph of classic architecture endowing it with a new white gold case with round guilloched pushers and three-tier lugs. Its subtle vintage allure is underscored by a box-shaped sapphire crystal and a dial with a contemporary look and feel.

The rose-gilt opaline —salmon looking— dial is exquisitely finished with charcoal gray gold applied numerals with luminescent coating, a black tachymeter scale, and black transfers. Meanwhile, its blue dial counterpart features a blue varnished finish with gold applied numerals with luminescent coating and tachymeter scale and transfers in white.

Complemented by a small running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock this 30-minute chronograph features a column wheel and a horizontal clutch with no jerking of the hands. While both dials are really beautiful, we have a soft spot for the newer rose-gilded dial iteration that we think is by far better than the blue on its predecessor.

The Movement

Turning the watch over reveals a display case back that allows for a full view of the manual wound Patek Philippe calibre CH 29-535 PS, equipped with Gyromax balance and Breguet balance spring. This calibre composed of 270 parts including 11 bridges, 33jewels, and an instantaneous 30-minute counter, provides a power reserve of 65 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The CH 29-535 PS chronograph caliber is distinguished by its architecture protected by six patented innovations, including optimized toothing profile, precision adjustment of engagement depth, and self-regulating zero-resetting hammers. This movement also features several distinctive technical characteristics reflecting the same concern for functionality and performance. Its aesthetic and its meticulous finishes are visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back offering a real treat for the eyes of discerning watch collectors and coinnoisseurs.

On the Wrist & Price

On the wrist, the Patek Philippe Chronograph ref. 5172G wears true to its size. However, the rose-gilded dial version seems to wear slightly larger at least visually due to the lighter colored dial. The watch is delivered on a shiny chocolate brown alligator leather strap with square scales for the rose-gilded dial model and with a navy blue calfskin strap —almost nubuck looking— for the blue dial counterpart. Both watches feature a fold-over clasp.

This is Patek Philippe in all its glory and the rose gilt opaline dial is as ‘salmon’ as it gets. This chronograph is without a doubt one of the best chronographs money can buy, especially if you have this spare change laying around or burning a hole in your pocket.

Sticker Price $80,430 USD. For more info on Patek Philippe click here.