Insider: New MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual in Titanium. Hands-on with the New 50-Piece Limited Edition.
Without a doubt, one of the biggest launches of 2015 was when MB&F launched the Legacy Machine Perpetual. Not only the Legacy Machine Perpetual is MB&F's first perpetual calendar but the recipient of the Calendar Prize at the 2016 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève. Today, MB&F presents a new iteration of this incredible watch now in Titanium with a gorgeous blue greenish dial and in a limited edition of only 50 pieces. Developed from scratch with independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, this perpetual calendar is very different to conventional ones that rely on modules placed on top of an existing movement and where the indications are synchronized by a long lever —called 'grand levier' in French— running across the top of the complication and passing through the center.
About the Watch
With a suspended balance on top of the dial fitted with the world’s longest balance wheel pinion to connect it to the escapement on the back of the movement, this 581-part movement allows for the new complication to be fully appreciated dial-side with no module on top of a base movement. Previously available in platinum or 18K 5N+ red gold, the Legacy Machine Perpetual in Titanium is fitted with a case measuring 44 mm x 17.5 mm with satin-brushed finished case band and mirror polished horns and bezel. Water resistant to 30 meters, its blue greenish dial brings the watch up another notch.
With a revolutionary new system for calculating the number of days in each month, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual in Titanium reinterprets the aesthetics of the perpetual calendar by placing the full complication on a dial-free display underneath its spectacular suspended balance. The dial of the LM Perpetual is the movement itself this time with its mainplate CVD-treated —chemical vapor deposition— in a blue-greenish hue with three skeletonized white lacquered ring subdials for the calendar indications and one white lacquered subdial for the hours and minutes.
Hours and minutes are located at 12 o’clock between the elegant arches of the balance, the day of the week at 3, a useful power reserve indicator at 4, a month indicator at 6, retrograde leap year indicator at 7 and date at 9 o’clock. All indicators are perfectly visible thanks to the stunning contrast between the white lacquer and the blued hands.
The Crown & Pushers
Another great thing about the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual in Titanium is that its fully integrated, purpose-built movement of the new MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual has been designed from scratch for trouble-free use with no more skipping dates or jamming gears and the adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes, so no problems there either. Four nicely finished pushers are set around the case band —two on each side.
The pushers are easy to use and are calibrated in a way where strong pressure is necessary to make them adjust the calendar, thus avoiding accidental changes. LM Perpetual also has a dedicated quick-set pusher to adjust the year.
The Movement
The movement powering the MB&F LM Perpetual Titanium was fully developed in-house as an integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell. The manual wound movement composed of 581 parts, is composed of double mainspring barrels, bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement, superlative hand finishing throughout in 19th century style, internal bevel angles, Geneva waves, 41 jewels and handmade engravings. The movement beats at a frequency of 18,000 vph to provide a 3-day power reserve. The exquisitely finished movement is of course fully visible via the display case back.
On the Wrist & Pricing
On the wrist, the new MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Titanium fits true to its size and quite light. Its mesmerizing new color scheme make this new MB&F extremely desirable. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces.
Sticker Price $148,000 USD. For more info on MB&F click here.