Insider: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Limited Editions. Paying Homage to Japan's Katsushika Hokusai.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Limited Editions were unveiled at the Reverso Stories Exhibition in New York City back in November 2023. The Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai limited edition watches showcase the expertise of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares atelier in the crafts of miniature painting, guillochage, and Grand Feu enameling.
Since the early days, Jaeger-LeCoultre adopted Asian motifs and adapted Eastern decorative crafts to embellish special timepieces and perpetuate the cultural exchange that has existed between Asia and Europe for some 2,000 years. The new Reverso Tribute timepieces come in a limited edition of 10 pieces each and are decorated with miniature-painted enamel reproductions of works by Katsushika Hokusai, Japan’s most celebrated 19th-century artist.
Hokusai was the Master of Japanese Woodblock Prints born in 1760 and an artist who left an indelible mark on the art world with his iconic woodblock prints. Best known for his series "Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji," which includes the world-famous "The Great Wave off Kanagawa," Hokusai's work continues to captivate audiences centuries after its creation.
Hokusai's artistic journey reflects a deep appreciation for nature and an insatiable curiosity about the world around him. His prints often depict landscapes, flora, fauna, and everyday life in vibrant and meticulous detail, showcasing the beauty of Japan during the Edo period. What sets Hokusai apart is his mastery of composition and his ability to infuse his prints with a sense of dynamic energy. Much like the way the watchmaker of watchmakers sets itself apart from other watch brands by mastering arts and rare crafts in their timepieces. "The Great Wave off Kanagawa," in particular, is a prime example of Hokusai's unparalleled skill in capturing the raw power of nature while evoking a profound emotional response from the viewer.
Throughout his career, Hokusai experimented with different themes and styles, showcasing his versatility as an artist. His later works, including the series "One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji," demonstrated his continued dedication to pushing artistic boundaries and exploring new techniques. Hokusai's influence extended far beyond his lifetime, inspiring countless artists and leaving an indelible legacy in the world of printmaking. His masterful use of line and color, coupled with his keen observation of the world, continues to resonate with art enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.
Things to Know About the Watches
The two works reproduced for the new Reverso Tribute enamel models are from a series of eight ukiyo-e paintings titled A Tour of the Waterfalls of the Provinces —Shokoku taki meguri— made by Hokusai after he spent two years traveling around Japan’s main island, Honshu, from 1831 to 1833, discovering some of its most inspiring landscapes. The master artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares atelier have previously paid homage to these works with a Reverso Tribute model in 2021 depicting The Waterfall at Kirifuri, followed by The Waterfall at Amida in 2022.
The two new pieces created for 2023 continue this homage to the Japanese master, choosing subjects that also reflect the deep attachment to nature that is intrinsic to La Grande Maison’s spirit. Exquisitely detailed on the case back of these Reversos are reproductions of the Japanese Katsushika Hokusai woodblock prints, The Waterfall at Ono on the Kisokaido Road and The Waterfall Where Yoshitsune Washed his Horse at Yoshino in Yamato Province appear on these Reverso case backs.
Both Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai are cased in 18K white gold measuring 45.6 x 27.4 mm x 9.73 mm thick and feature dials that have been guilloché by hand. The dials are extremely intricate and their green color is unique. The simplicity and discreet styling of the watches’ front dials with the faceted appliqué hour-markers, Dauphine hands, and chemin-de-fer minutes track characteristic of all Reverso Tribute timepieces provides a contrast to the intricacy of the miniature paintings on the back of the cases.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘The Waterfall at Ono’ features a classical barleycorn guilloché design, requiring three to four hours of painstakingly accurate work. Once the guillochage is completed, four to five layers of translucent green enamel are applied, with each layer requiring separate firing and drying —representing a total of eight additional hours of work, over a week.
Meanwhile, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai ‘The Waterfall at Yoshino’ features a lozenge —chevron— guilloché pattern comprising no fewer than 800 lines, each of which required five passages of the lathe —4,000 passages in total—, representing eight hours of work only for the guillochage. Once the guillochage is completed, four to five layers of translucent green enamel are applied, with each layer requiring separate firing and drying —representing a total of eight additional hours of work, over a week.
The miniature paintings on the Reverso case backs were executed using the Geneva technique, involving at least 14 layers of enamel, each fired at 800 degrees Celsius before the next can be applied, and requiring a total of 80 hours’ meticulous work. As well as the technical feat of reproducing Hokusai’s original colors —including the graduated bokashi effect— in an entirely different medium, the enameler faced the challenge of precisely reproducing every detail with pinpoint accuracy, on a scale of approximately one-tenth of the original.
The Waterfall at Yoshino depicts a famous Japanese tale —an episode from the life of General Minamoto no Yoshitsune (1159–1189). Fleeing from his older brother who considered him a traitor for joining forces with the Emperor, Go-Shirakawa, the General paused to rest and bathe his favorite horse amid the mountains of Yoshino —in today’s Nara prefecture. In this powerfully graphic composition, the waterfall’s strong curves express the full force of the water passing through a deep, tree-lined valley. Evoking an image of a giant hand embracing the earth with fingers spread open, it is a poignant exploration of the relationship between nature, man, and animals.
On the other hand, The Waterfall at Ono portrays a famous site in Nagano Prefecture, on the ancient road that linked the historic capital of Kyoto with the seat of the Tokugawa shoguns in Edo —today’s Tokyo. A small Shinto shrine stands on a rocky promontory next to the falls and, on a bridge below it, a group of travelers stand in awe of the power of the falling water. The composition of the painting amplifies this sense of power, with the water plunging in a straight vertical line between two towering cliffs. The Japanese traditionally believed that remarkable physical phenomena indicate the presence of a kami or Shinto god, and Hokusai rendered his scenes with a powerful sense of life, reflecting his animistic beliefs.
Most remarkable, perhaps, are the cartouches near the top of each frame, in which the original captions have been hand-written on a microscopic scale while remaining perfectly accurate and legible. Beyond mastering this technical feat, the enameller seeks to express the original artist’s intention and touch, imbuing each work with emotional resonance and a sense of soul.
On the Wrist & Price
On the wrist, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Limited Editions wear true to their size and are incredibly nice. Both watches are powered by the manual wound Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 822 which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai is available in two 10-piece limited editions delivered on a black alligator strap.
Sticker Price USD 107,000 for either model. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.