WATCH COLLECTING LIFESTYLE

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Insider: Richard Mille RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic. Fitted with a Special Mechanism on its Bezel.

Richard Mille first unveiled the RM 58-01 Tourbillon World Timer at the SIHH 2013. Designed for frequent travelers and others alike, this timepiece made a strong impression thanks to its remarkably easy to use multi-time-zone mechanism. When designing the RM 58-01, Richard Mille’s goal was to simplify the setting of this complication as far as possible, notably by removing the pusher. Now, just a week ago, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic at the SIAR in Mexico City. After working on this hands-on review with live pictures, our first impression of the watch is that while the round shape doesn't immediately convey Richard Mille, the rest of the watch DNA does. While there are other Richard Mille timepieces out there with a round shape like the RM 028 Diver or this watch's predecessor the RM 58-01 Tourbillon, we are more used to identify Richard Mille timepieces by their tonneau-shaped cases.

The new Richard Mille RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic incorporates the world timer function at the heart of a brand new automatic in-house movement and equipped with a rotating bezel that can be turned to select the desired time zone. When the name of the wearer’s current city is positioned at 12 o’clock, the RM 63-02 automatically defines the local time as well as the time in 23 other cities around the world thanks to its graduated 24-hour flange.

The Dial & Rotating Bezel

The rotating bezel in satin-brushed and polished grade 5 titanium is one of the masterpieces of the new Richard Mille RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic. Mounted on ball bearings for easy manipulation, allows the wearer to set its home time zone by simply rotating the bezel and positioning the home city at 12 o'clock. The rotating bezel includes a specific wheel connected to the movement that acts directly on the hour wheel. Turning the bezel ensures quicker, more
accurate time setting. The skeletonized gray dial on the watch features a sapphire crystal with Arabic numerals in italics only for 12, 10, 8, 6 and 2.

An oversized aperture located at 12 o'clock displays the date functioning via two skeletonized calendar discs over a white background. The date can be corrected simply via the push-button located at 10 o’clock.

Around the dial, a blue and white anodized aluminum flange distinguishes night time and daytime hours, automatically incorporating the correction hour by hour. The 24-city flange —also in anodized aluminum— is really captivating with alternating use of white, yellow and light blue imprinting. Additionally, a very small aperture located within the turbine shaped skeletonized bridge near 4 o’clock, displays the function selected by the crown engagement mechanism showing a 'W' for winding, an 'N' for neutral or an 'H' for hand time setting. Overall, the dial has a very racing inspired design and is perfectly rounded out by the silvered hands with luminescent material and the white seconds hand with red tip.

Case, Crown & Pushers

The Richard Mille RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic is fitted with a grade 5 titanium round case measuring 47 mm in diameter and 13.85 mm in thickness. Producing the RM 63-02 case is an extremely complex task, as almost 200 parts are required to create it. Its four-part construction includes the rotating bezel that, in addition to being used to adjust the watch, plays a role in keeping the timepiece water resistant. The case mechanism is completed by horns and screws to securely fix the strap. The case is made from grade 5 titanium and features exceptional hand finishes. The bezel, the case back and the crown protector are polished and satin-brushed. The case middle has vertical satin-brushing, while the lugs have vertical and horizontal satin-brushing and polished bevel edges. The case is assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and is water resistant to 30 meters. A pusher located at 10 o'clock allows the wearer to adjust the date instantly by simply pressing the pusher.

The crown made of grade 5 titanium is polished and microblasted with a blue alcryn collar. A pusher located at 4 o’clock right below the crown, enables the engagement of the crown to wind the watch or set the time while working in a similar fashion to a car’s gearbox. As mentioned earlier, a very small aperture located near the 4 o’clock position on the dial, displays the function selected displaying a 'W' for winding, an 'N' for neutral or an 'H' for hand time setting.

The Movement

Fully visible via the display case back, the new automatic in-house calibre RM 63-02 is exquisitely finished. The movement is equipped with a special gear teeth profile for the entire going train of the watch —the primary transmitter of power through the movement. This special profile for the teeth of the wheels was developed specifically for the caliber CRMA3, where the wheels use a 20° pressure angle. This system equalizes any discrepancies that might arise between the centers of each wheel, for instance during thermal changes and normal use, and promotes excellent torque transmission to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chronometric characteristics. The RM 63-02 features 37 jewels, Rubifix transparent escapement wheel jewels, fast rotating barrel —5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours— and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph to provide a power reserve of 50 hours.

On the Wrist & Pricing

On the wrist, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size but quite comfortably. One thing we did notice, is that the watch tends to sit quite high on the wrist due to its oversized construction, however, not as tall as a RM 028 Diver. Next time you are on your way to Dubai via Emirates, this could be a perfect companion. The new Richard Mille RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic is available worldwide and is not a limited edition.

Sticker Price $145,000 USD. For more info Richard Mille click here.