Under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco, the ONLY Watch auction has been raising funds for the research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Created in 2005 by Luc Pettavino —whose son Paul suffers from this terrible disease— auctioning one-off timepieces, this initiative has become a very awaited biennial rendezvous in the horology calendar for both brands and collectors.

For this auction, 62 brands —originally started with only 49-52 brands— have created ‘unique pieces’, and one of them is Ferdinand Berthoud presenting the FB 3 ‘ONLY Watch’ with a patinated bronze case. This watch, which we think is the real sleeper at this auction that will take place in Geneva on November 5, 2023, is powered by the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC.

The Chronomètre FB 3 ‘ONLY Watch’ is the result of several months of preparation and testing to obtain this unique patinated bronze case. The color and nuances are unprecedented and evoke the discerning gaze of the patina that naturally develops on the copper alloys of the precision and navigation instruments supplied by Ferdinand Berthoud during the 18th century. This patina symbolizes the passage of time and celebrates the 270th anniversary of the year 1753 in which Ferdinand Berthoud received the ‘Master Watchmaker’ title, at the age of just 26.

Beating inside the FB 3 ‘ONLY Watch’ model is the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, a clear tribute to the quest for precision initiated by Ferdinand Berthoud. Many months of research, testing, and fine-tuning were necessary to define the number of coils and the geometry of the terminal curve at the attachment points. The ample space at 9 o'clock dedicated to the regulating organ enables its operation to be admired in full, and the cylindrical balance spring to be seen beating throughout the three-day power reserve, including through a large porthole created in the case middle at 9 o'clock.

In addition to the watch, the winner will be offered a Manufacture visit providing a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the timepiece as well as a guided tour of the private collection of 18th-century marine clocks and pocket watches made by Ferdinand Berthoud. The 42.3 mm round case in brown patinated bronze with sapphire ‘porthole’ at 9 o'clock and sapphire exhibition back in sandblasted titanium is completed by a green alligator and a brown calfskin strap. The estimate for this watch is in the range of CHF 160,000 and 180,000 Swiss Francs.

For more info on Ferdinand Berthoud click here.